The NIGHTMARE TRIP! Will I be asking too much of a IDI Turbo?

[FORDF250HDXLT]

The F-Super Duty 1987-97 (the original super duty prior to '99 pickups) was introduced to bridge the gap from the F350 to medium duty trucks. It was a commercial cab & chassis 2WD dually only optioned truck.They came with 460 gas engines all through the production run, with the optional 7.3l idi diesel engine from introduction through '94,then the optional 7.3l di (power stroke) diesel from '94.5 - '97.
Known at the time as the "One Ton Plus." It sports a HD frame,the hydroboost brake system w/ 4 wheel disc brakes.Though they are 2WD trucks,they are equipped with 4WD transmissions but,rather than a transfer case,they come with a drive line emergency/parking brake. A HD dana 80 rear axle that came from ford with gear ratio options intended for two purposes; heavy hauling & towing.They came in various wheelbase lengths with up to a 15,000 LB GVWR.It's widely known as the F-450 equivalent with many auto stores listing parts under either name.
These trucks are easy to spot with their pickup size cabs,yet unique F-Super Duty fender emblems & 10 lug wheels.
axle code 72 = 4.63
axle code 73 = 5.13

this is what you need^ if you want a truck of the era for those type of roads on a regular basis.start with this foundation and put a crew cab on it.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Make make my worries even worse I just noticed my daily driver F350 has a class V Draw-tite hitch on it only rated for 5000lbs weight carry and 8000 weight distributing! And to think I tried to use this truck first, with 9500lbs attached weight carry.
Reason this was noticed was I just went out and hooked up to it again and the receiver flexed up and down 3/8" thats what caught my attention and I looked at the label. ITS A TOTAL POS!!

Wait, sure that isn't 500 tongue weight with a simple drawbar and 800 with a disty setup? Goodness, how is that thing even considered Class-V? Last V-er I had to deal with was rated at 16k, still 2" receiver too...

C6 with 3.55s, I'd venture to guess she will hate the load. Don't care what engine is up front, the transmission would be the one to watch out for. Non-lockup converter with fairly high 1st gear, normally that would have 4.10s behind it if you wanna tow anything reliably, those 3.55s will be a murder for it on the steep grades. Hope you have a big cooler for it and a temp gauge so you know when she's fixin to get toasty... Locked up engine fan would be on my list as well, personally I don't trust the factory disasterpiece one bit!!!

I'd try to make the DNE work somehow, small air actuator would be my preferred choice instead of a manual lever, they tend to be more forgiving especially if you feed them thru a small (like 1/8") line. Then regear the thing to 4.10s at the very least.

So to me it boils down to not whether the engine will move it, but whether the rest of the truck said engine is will be up to the task. And not cause of the load itself, but more cause of the surroundings. I'd be very tempted to start with a F-Superduty truck, it's a whole lot more truck than any F350 (unless you do quite a bit of work to the 1-ton). Yeah you'll have to do some work to it, but it's a chassis much more suited for heavy work at lower road speeds. If weight rating is a concern (14.5k IIRC, usually puts it into the commercial area) there may be a way to derate it to 11k or whatever, just don't get caught with axle loads adding up to more than what you derate it to - if you mostly tow and don't haul (weight is on trailer and not in truck bed) that could be a viable option, provided it's allowed by your state's DMV/DOT.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Here's the one you need for mountain climbing with a heavy load. Stick a couple of windows in the sleeper section and your good to go.
http://www.50000trucks.com/search/specsheet/?id=8175942&t=0&r=1

Grade? What grade? Jokes aside, Class-8 trucks are actually becoming more and more popular with folks who pull heavy trailers on regular basis - with a massive triple-axle multi-slideout toyhauler you'll be getting single-digit MPG anyways, might as well be with a truck that doesn't even feel the load is back there Licensing and registration and insurance for private use can get interesting tho, depending on state and mostly knowledge level of people involved in the process.

 

[fordgirl4by4]

Thanks all, yes I've been looking for good deals on F-duty 10 lugs for awhile now, there are a few 10 lug 4x4 version around here too. I'm waiting to find a good deal on one though.
I've found some IHC crew cab and regular cab 4x4 trucks from power companies too, I'm talking 40,000lb rated trucks with cummins and dt466. They are just outta my price range right now, $24,000 for one with 46,000 miles, thinking this is my best option if I spend any money.
DOT regs and state stuff means nothing here, no cops around, not even the whole 190 mile one way trip, except few towns I go through. No inspections or anything like that.
I'm not hauling my tractor all time but these passes are only open during summer, and this property I'm working on is buried under 6-8ft of snow in winter, I have a small window each year to make improvements. I will be hauling supplies and a rv trailer too, then 1000 gallon water tank. (only the last pull of 900ft to 3600ft in 14 miles for water until a well is done)
Leaving a tractor is not an option, not secure, TWEEKERS would have it stripped or gone,

 

[fordgirl4by4]

If I was made of money, and built a sleeper on the back

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Oh yeah, old MDTs are cheap these days, even crew-cabs, UNLESS it's a 4x4 - instant 2x or 3x asking price multiplier right there! We made our own cause of that, it's more or less a F800 but without the DOT hassles that go with that badge. In the words of a Texas state trooper, after taking a good look at our axles: "Jesus Christ why did you even bother installing a trailer brake controller on that thing?" (obviously he had never had to drift a trailer around an off-ramp in winter )

 

[fordgirl4by4]

Oh yeah, old MDTs are cheap these days, even crew-cabs, UNLESS it's a 4x4 - instant 2x or 3x asking price multiplier right there! We made our own cause of that, it's more or less a F800 but without the DOT hassles that go with that badge. In the words of a Texas state trooper, after taking a good look at our axles: "Jesus Christ why did you even bother installing a trailer brake controller on that thing?" (obviously he had never had to drift a trailer around an off-ramp in winter )

Maybe I'm just going to finish my build with an intercooler, 4.10 gears and sell all my Fords except one crew cab, that will put a good down payment on a F700, or International MDT crew cab 4x4, they are less than newer super dutys and are powered by real engines and real brakes, even the non air brake versions would be ok. I see these rigs $20,00-40,000 with low miles.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

You actually want a juice brake setup, I know you said you're not too concerned about the fuzz but remember not all bears poop just in the woods and it only takes one overly-motivated and properly-equipped bear to poop up your day hard! Make sure you can register and insure the thing reasonably cheap too, some insurance companies have no idea what to do with such a beast and will push you for a commercial policy ($$$). Tho you mentioned you can get farm tags, that could certainly be a way to go.

Also, idk how much you've actually looked into MDTs, but your typical 4x4 crew cab is usually originally ordered by a business entity that has something to do with mountains and forests and such - it will therefore more than likely have either a slushbox or a 5-speed with a very low 1st and no OD, springs will be stiff as all heck, cab will have little to no creature comforts... Basically your typical work truck made to take abuse day in and day out without much maintenance. If that suits your needs then great, but if you want something more family-friendly be fully prepared to build it yourself, and factor that into the purchase price (or at least its negotiations when the time comes).

 

[typ4]

Copy on the tweekers. They all need to be exterminated, starting with my little brother and sister. But I digress, with farm tags you may be open to a whole lot of exemptions, personally I would get a cdl with air endorsement and get an air brake truck.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Copy on the tweekers. They all need to be exterminated, starting with my little brother and sister. But I digress, with farm tags you may be open to a whole lot of exemptions, personally I would get a cdl with air endorsement and get an air brake truck.

Air brakes are the thing for braking heavy loads, but you better know what it takes to maintain them or they are useless.

 

[typ4]

Air brakes are the thing for braking heavy loads, but you better know what it takes to maintain them or they are useless.

But so simple and parts are everywhere.

 

[fordgirl4by4]

Yes me and the wifey talked about it and we will invest later in a REAL big rig truck with air brakes. For now we will just make do and try to reduce loads, I see people pull these passes daily with 14,000 plus pound toy haulers and newer trucks. MAYBE I'm just getting old or just way to cautious but thats fine by me, I DONT want a newer rig, maybe just a better one!
I am continuing with my build just not going to spend any crazy amounts of $$$ on it, ( Doing new pump, injectors, fan clutch, clutch, intercooler, NON chinese brake rotors and drums, and new 4.10 gears for D60, etc) then save up for a big rig!
Anyone ever though about trying to adapt a newer 6.0/6.4/6.7 electric fan clutch to a IDI water pump?
I might try to fit a electric pusher fan on to if I have room after an intercooler, I have a large two speed volvo and small aux fan fan ready out back.

 

[fordgirl4by4]

I do not need a CDL in Wa. for air brakes for farm use within 150 air miles of farms, mine is 190 driving miles but only 113 air miles so CLOSE ENOUGH!!! Up to 40,000lbs
And no Cdl for under 26,000lb rating for air brakes and the best part!
No cdl for Rvs of any size, even converted ones, A MDT with a sleeper on the back or camper shell
So all in all I am good to go any which way I do this

 

[fordgirl4by4]

Yes me and the wifey talked about it and we will invest later in a REAL big rig truck with air brakes. For now we will just make do and try to reduce loads, I see people pull these passes daily with 14,000 plus pound toy haulers and newer trucks. MAYBE I'm just getting old or just way to cautious but thats fine by me, I DONT want a newer rig, maybe just a better one!
I am continuing with my build just not going to spend any crazy amounts of $$$ on it, ( Doing new pump, injectors, fan clutch, clutch, intercooler, NON chinese brake rotors and drums, and new 4.10 gears for D60, etc) then save up for a big rig!
Anyone ever though about trying to adapt a newer 6.0/6.4/6.7 electric fan clutch to a IDI water pump?
I might try to fit a electric pusher fan on to if I have room after an intercooler, I have a large two speed volvo and small aux fan fan ready out back.

I"M DUMB!!!! Fans turn wrong ways on newer engines

 

[OLDBULL8]

[QUOTEI am continuing with my build just not going to spend any crazy amounts of $$$ on it, ( Doing new pump, injectors, fan clutch, clutch, intercooler, NON chinese brake rotors and drums, and new 4.10 gears for D60, etc) then save up for a big rig!][/QUOTE]
Pump from http://www.conestogadiesel.com/products/ford.html $725
Injectors from http://www.conestogadiesel.com/products/ford.html $455
Return line kit from http://www.conestogadiesel.com/products/ford.html $61
Drums $142
Brake kits $20
Fan clutch $140
DMF clutch $600
Gears 4:10 http://www.ebay.com/itm/DANA-60-Rin...ord-/371303719957?hash=item56736d2415&vxp=mtr $155.
Total which ain't too bad $2293. Not counting all the unforeseen costs, and all the hours of work.

Now that intercooler is ...................?