The NIGHTMARE TRIP! Will I be asking too much of a IDI Turbo?

[stealth13777]

I like your logic. Just thought I'd throw that out there. The guys on here who have done it will help you create a setup you like and can trust


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[C_Luft]

You can get an intercooler for around 150-250 on ebay, and fab up your own intercooler tubes . If your looking for a drop in intercooler system be prepared to pay 1250+ from hypermax and 1500+ for a original ats 093 intercooler system if you can find one. With doing the kind of pulling your expecting to do I would suggest a water or water methanol injection kit to further lower your egts.

I had a 460 just last year and I had an issue with it getting hot in the hills after up shifting ,even after I replaced the entire cooling system and the 4-6 mpgs is way to low even when gas prices were 2.60 earlier this year

 

[Greg5OH]

or, OR.. 7.3 or 6.0 intercooler (i have the 6.0) its 3" tubing, you can get silicone adapters, or run 3" tubing like I have, I paid 60 bucks at scrap yard for mine, didnt evne have to pull it, they bring parts up for you.
One of these days ill remember the laser temp gun and tell you temps out of turbo and into engine. I can tell you from ytouching it, out of turbo is WARM, into engine i can keep my hand on it and its about ambient engine bay temp.

 

[fordgirl4by4]

I have been keeping an eye open for the OEM ford intercoolers but pretty limited here, I live quite a ways from junkyards but do make a habit of checking them from time to time for 6.9's and related parts. My build is a bricknose and believe the intercooler space is more limited than OBS but I think I need one, I have a whole milk crate full of silicone boots I picked up years ago at a swap meet.
Water/**** is a go too!!!! I have a few RV 20psi water pumps already from a previous profession and a few NOS nozzles from my race days, so thats easy.
Thinking R&D injectors too, and the best pump I can get (not the biggest, the BEST)
I'll make do with my factory ATS bottleneck elbow and Banks pipe

What about gears? I have 3.55 in my build now but they are COMING OUT! NO QUESTION ABOUT THAT, I'll swap the 4.10 rear in I have and buy new D60 gears, but if i'm this far are 4.56 or 4.88 a better route the cost of them isnt alot, and I've set up tons of them in my past employment. I'm not on the freeway much and no need to ever go faster than 70mph unless passing a rig.

 

[The Warden]

The Wifey really wants an auto but after the trip she has agreed that a zf5 is the only way and she will just have to learn how to use one better. (shes scared on boat ramps and hills)

I've launched boats countless times with a 4x4 IDI with a manual transmission (ZF and T-19). My recommendation for boat ramps is to keep the front hubs unlocked (or, lock them if the ramp's slimy) and put the transfer case in 4L. Couple that with careful application of the brake and clutch, and you won't have a problem. Certainly, the IDI won't stall out unless you dump the clutch...they're pretty torquey

Beyond that, go with what the others are saying...an intercooler is a very good idea, and anything you can do to upgrade the brakes would be even better. I would also strongly recommend making sure that the trailer's loaded with weight forward and make certain the trailer brakes are at 100%. I think I would try 4.10 gears at first...that'll probably be enough for you (keep in mind that diesels like lower RPM's), and if they're still too tall, then go for 4.56 gears.

I just hauled an 8,000lb trailer this weekend with my F-250 (GCW was about 15K lbs)...with 4.10's, a ZF, an ATS non-gated turbo with an exhaust leak (i.e. not making very much boost), and brakes with a questionable vacuum booster, I was able to handle it well. I wasn't the fastest-accelerating vehicle on the road, but I was able to maintain 55 mph without trouble, and with happy trailer brakes, aggressive engine braking (I'm with LCAM on that one ), and looking ahead, I had no trouble stopping the load.

Just my $.02 ...good luck with it!

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Thanks everyone, Guess I will continue on my build with my idi and F350 4x4 with additions of some better parts and making sure everything is up to par. A splitter isnt a option really for me in my current 4x4 chassis and driveline setup that I already spent money on.

Truck is a 4-door, right? An aux box can go in place if the carrier bearing for the rear shaft, junkyard driveshafts are reasonably cheap even for larger trucks... Won't have to touch the front shaft at all, or the t-case. The only thing is, idk how quick an aux box will shift. The IDIs drop engine speed horribly fast when you clutch in, well for the Brownie you often don't even have to use the clutch (some shift like a RoadRanger, just let off the throttle then shift then lay into the fuel again), but point is you may have a fun time shifting both at the same time if you're trying to split the gears. It's kinda annoying even with a ZF, the 6610 behind our Fummins is actually easier as if you time her right she'll slip into the next gear almost instantly. Anyways, to me no amount of power substitutes for having the right gears to able to shift into. But then again I learned to drive on a 50-ton logging monster with over 20 forward gears, so I am just slightly biased there...

With the road conditions you're running thru and the loads you're pulling i'd go 4.56 gears at least. There's an interesting option here actually, we'll need someone with a F-Superduty truck to measure the distance between the sidewalls of their inner tires. The F-Superduty comes with a D80 axle with massive disc brakes, it can also be had in 4.62 (or 4.63, whatever) gears from the factory. Your frame is wider than the F-Superduty frame, but you could possibly copy the GM cab-chassis axle setup where the leaf springs are literally 1/2" away from the tires, if the axle width allows it. Obviously moving the axle perches is involved, well I'd just weld new ones on it and leave the old ones be if they don't get in the way. Don't have access to a F-Superduty truck right now to measure it for ya tho, someone else will have to be kind enough and follow up on my stupid ideas

 

[ou812didntu.yb]

Imho, I think you need to consider the amount of time and money you are going to spend on an older diesel and truck chassis.
(Just so ya know my entry into the diesel world started in 1988 on a old '84 6.9. My experience 25+yrs, ran mining Light vehicle shop w over 135 vehicles, myself and two other guys. Ford, Cummins, Chevy, HD Cummins, Caterpillar, Komatsu, Hitachi...."one" of my military mos' was 88m, truck operator) anyway,

So clutch and components,complete brakes, intercooler & components, turbo, studs, injectors, fuel pump upgrade. You have h2o possibility but 20psi? Possible exhaust brake.
$$$ even if you do all the work. Down time. Still have a truck that really isn't setup to do it although many Experienced have and do.

The new ones. Plush and nice. Emissions crap has killed them, powerwise, economy and reliability.

Get a '99-'03 sd7.3.
The e99 I bought in 2000 sold me when stock, it pulled an old 4dr 53 chevy that motherinlaw Loaded full of canned food and filled the bed with more, years worth. Anyway going over the Rockies from Grand Junction to Denver on I-70, probably toughest test in the U.S.
It had to work on a few passes but could maintain about 69 if I stayed in the power band. Going down was just a matter of running a little slower at 55 a tapping the brakes a few times.

For what your going to spend, you can find a stock 7.3 that can do that job.

Sorry so long winded. I've done a lot to my e99 (won't bore you anymore unless you ask).

It will run up I-70, Eisenhower Tunnel, Loveland Pass, with truck at 8700, old '73 cabover loaded, trailer with 3 motorcycles loaded with gear and firewood putting me easily at your weight, 90+ until max rpms if I want and just hit 1200* after several miles. Pulls at 75 all day long, 85*; up ANY pass engine might get to 210*, tranny maybe 185*, pyro 850* and gets about 12.9mpg doing it.

 

[franklin2]

Any recommendation for clutches for heavy loads? I HATE my current LUK single mass flywheel conversion and really want a dual mass again, I have two new stock valeo clutch kits and was going to do a lucky mod.

If you don't like your single mass conversion flywheel setup, you really won't like the lucky mod setup. That's what I have, it works fine, but it can be very noisy. You can't use the dmf clutch disc, it has no springs at all. And the one clutch disc that fits the dmf (I got mine from Autozone) only has one set of springs in it, and they don't do much for noise control.

 

[OLDBULL8]

Here's the one you need for mountain climbing with a heavy load. Stick a couple of windows in the sleeper section and your good to go.
http://www.50000trucks.com/search/specsheet/?id=8175942&t=0&r=1

 

[fordgirl4by4]

If you don't like your single mass conversion flywheel setup, you really won't like the lucky mod setup. That's what I have, it works fine, but it can be very noisy. You can't use the dmf clutch disc, it has no springs at all. And the one clutch disc that fits the dmf (I got mine from Autozone) only has one set of springs in it, and they don't do much for noise control.

Yes my luk SMF was from Autozone and has the springs in it, wound up with two of them after they screwed up and didnt send the flywheel the first time, then had a lost second kit so they told me to keep the first one as a token of there appreciation, this was all Autozone.com through the mail. TOO NOISY, chatters and throwout is noisy already.
Thinking DMF valeo again, found a few for $600. Found 94 IDI turbo ones for $450 (I have a high miles 266,000 one that could be a option too)
Secondary tranny's ??? Well I happen to have a DNE2 (doug nash) overdrive that fits a 2wd c6, its a parts unit with no electric motor on it, i could fab up a mechanical lever, and maybe a way to mount it. My previous truck i sold had a DNE2 underdrive unit on it. (1988 f150 2wd) worked great!!
To be clear, I do ALL my own work, I have no Lathe or fancy shop equipment, I have 25 years of auto mechanical/electrical experience. And own about 37 vehicles and a dozen are old ford trucks. I have lots of IDI stuff to work with and already started my build.
Brakes will just have work good, this was my first master cylinder issue on the newer aluminum 1 1/4" units but it sure FREAKED me out with no way to fix it.


BUT am watching for a 7.3 DI crew cab deal, I'm making a test run today on my 86 with the 1994 IDI turbo 3.55 c6 SAME load to see how it does on a small hill just to see my options

 

[towcat]

Yes my luk SMF was from Autozone and has the springs in it, wound up with two of them after they screwed up and didnt send the flywheel the first time, then had a lost second kit so they told me to keep the first one as a token of there appreciation, this was all Autozone.com through the mail. TOO NOISY, chatters and throwout is noisy already.
Thinking DMF valeo again, found a few for $600. Found 94 IDI turbo ones for $450 (I have a high miles 266,000 one that could be a option too)

WARNING. NEVER USE 7.3 OEM TURBO FLYWHEELS ON A NON OEM TURBO MOTOR.
you will have a transient imbalance as a result.
why? oem turbo pistons, pins and rods are completely different sized compared to non-turbo 6.9 and 7.3 motors.

 

[ou812didntu.yb]

That's great that you have that kind of experience and vehicles to pull from, definately save cash. Did not mean to insult.
Imho you should seriously consider the repercussions of getting yourself into another "swinging trailer" incident especially if you have others/family with you.
You saved it once, lucky.

 

[fordgirl4by4]

WARNING. NEVER USE 7.3 OEM TURBO FLYWHEELS ON A NON OEM TURBO MOTOR.
you will have a transient imbalance as a result.
why? oem turbo pistons, pins and rods are completely different sized compared to non-turbo 6.9 and 7.3 motors.

What I shoulda said was I could use my high mileage 7.3 IDI turbo motor with a DMF, it has high miles and I've only had it for three years and rarely drive it, it was CLEAN CLEAN CLEAN when I got it, no leaks never had any, burns NO oil no smoke etc. Theres a BUT though, unknown if had sca treatments in its past, and has a slight lifter tick on right bank, I swapped rockers three years ago and checked everything, all looked great no excessive valve guide movement or anything, but tick was still there. ITS a guaranteed lifter not injector.
Truck it came outta got a cummins swap and truck was very clean too, I always though the miles were not 266,000 and maybe someone swapped the dash?
I'm not a 7.3 fan, too many seized valves core engines out back in the bushes already.
Bonus part is the DMF kits are cheap for these factory IDI turbos

 

[fordgirl4by4]

Make make my worries even worse I just noticed my daily driver F350 has a class V Draw-tite hitch on it only rated for 5000lbs weight carry and 8000 weight distributing! And to think I tried to use this truck first, with 9500lbs attached weight carry.
Reason this was noticed was I just went out and hooked up to it again and the receiver flexed up and down 3/8" thats what caught my attention and I looked at the label. ITS A TOTAL POS!!
My trailer ball that I used is only rated 8000lbs, (I have others at 20,000lbs though)
Now I need to check everything I own to be safe, this just keeps getting better and better!

 

[typ4]

If you are hauling the tractor back and forth , buy another one, its cheaper than a new truck.
I gross out at 16.000 with the jeep on bac and or buggy trailer. loaded for a week. You are going to have cooling issues unless you lock the fan . More later