Temp lift pump

[wrecked]

I'm looking to do a quick fix for a slow start condition, likely air intrusion. I have a small Facet pump (5-8psi) I'd like to mount on the wheel arch next to the solenoid with a check valve, and simply cap the original lines and leave the mechanical pump in place until the spring, when I replace all this rubbish with my Christmas presents. Namely a good lift pump and a proper cap for the old mechanical.

How long do you folks reckon the mechanical pump will last on there with no fuel flow? Minutes, hours, weeks or months? Is the whole thing bonkers? I plan to address the air problem asap but will likely benefit from the key on fuel pressure regardless no?

Cheers!

 

[wrecked]

That's 1.5 to 4psi actually. 25gph. Not enough?

 

[wrecked]

Nowhere near enough... I'll plumb it as a primer for now but I'll expect to see a duralift 40285 under the tree xmas morning or she's outta my will.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

I'll expect to see a duralift 40285 under the tree xmas morning or she's outta my will.

Actually, the Duralifts seem to be suffering from poor quality these days. That may not be a good present after all.

 

[wrecked]

Aw geez! Talk about crushing my spirit! Lol. I guess I'd better start shopping. I don't mind paying if it's something better than the crap being sold under formerly good brands. Man though, it's getting tricky.

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

You will get a lot of mileage out of simply adding a check valve after your lift pump, and then deleting the return line from filter to #1, or:

adding a smaller check valve between the filter and #1. There is already one from the factory but they don't seal well brand new and also fail.

Like this:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07ZB2R2FS/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_fab_zDtGFbVF3ZC9D
Thats probably the wrong size but same idea.

Either way once you upgrade you'll still want the one from filter to #1. It's super handy if you forget to change tanks fast enough up a steep hill...

 

[nelstomlinson]

You will get a lot of mileage out of simply adding a check valve after your lift pump, and then deleting the return line from filter to #1, or:

My '89 crewcab had persistent air intrusion. I deleted the return line which ran to the filter, replaced the seals on the hard lines from pump to filter and filter to IP, put in the check valve after the fuel pump, and put a little electric pump in the fuel line between the tank selector valve and the fuel pump. That will prime the system after a filter change, and is probably covering up ongoing air intrusion. Whatever: it starts and stays running now, and I'm happy.

 

[Joseph Davis]

When I change mine to a electric Fuel Pump; I used a Carter Diesel fuel pump, a fuel pressure regulator, and a relay to handle the power. you can adjust the fuel pressure regulator so you don't run out of torque on hills with a load. I still have the Mechanical fuel pump bolted in to stop the oil leaks. Lol, its been two years on a temporary fix

 

[chillman88]

Lol, its been two years on a temporary fix

I'm pretty good at those too. 5 years later "whoops, guess I never fixed that"

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

My '89 crewcab had persistent air intrusion. I deleted the return line which ran to the filter, replaced the seals on the hard lines from pump to filter and filter to IP, put in the check valve after the fuel pump, and put a little electric pump in the fuel line between the tank selector valve and the fuel pump. That will prime the system after a filter change, and is probably covering up ongoing air intrusion. Whatever: it starts and stays running now, and I'm happy.

The check valves probably stopped the problem so there's nothing left to fix. It's a fuel drain-back issue and without a check valve between filter and return lines it will drain back on the best system.
Just a word of caution on your e-pump placement; since it's before the filter it could become a filter and clog up. I had a little cube style pump that had a little pre-filter on it and it clogged intermittently, took me days to figure out what the heck was going on. Without the pre-filter maybe it doesn't clog but it's a possibility to be aware of.

 

[nelstomlinson]

The check valves probably stopped the problem so there's nothing left to fix. It's a fuel drain-back issue and without a check valve between filter and return lines it will drain back on the best system.
Just a word of caution on your e-pump placement; since it's before the filter it could become a filter and clog up. I had a little cube style pump that had a little pre-filter on it and it clogged intermittently, took me days to figure out what the heck was going on. Without the pre-filter maybe it doesn't clog but it's a possibility to be aware of.

The check valve was the first thing I tried, and didn't do the trick. The others came later. Thanks for the warning about the pump clogging, I'll keep that in mind.

 

[Cubey]

When I change mine to a electric Fuel Pump; I used a Carter Diesel fuel pump, a fuel pressure regulator, and a relay to handle the power. you can adjust the fuel pressure regulator so you don't run out of torque on hills with a load. I still have the Mechanical fuel pump bolted in to stop the oil leaks. Lol, its been two years on a temporary fix

My truck still has the mech pump installed too because the last owner was too lazy/cheap to remove it. I'd had it ~3.5 years that way.