TECH 101 Bronco tank conversion to diesel

[riotwarrior]

Ok after much internal debate, I have made the choice to remove my Bronco's fuel tank and convert it to diesel for my 1Ton White Rhino for now.

I've removed the Bronco tank today and I'll be draining the remaining fuel in it into my Superwifey's truck.

I'll be examining the fuel sending unit and testing compatibility with the diesel gauge, or I'll take the arm off it and install that arm on the stock rear tank sender and just lengthen the pick up with fuel hose and remove the shower head.

I have a trip in early March that requires me to travel to the coast, Vancouver and I can take as much fuel as I need from here but not much chance of refueling along the way. I have a CARD LOCK for this area to which I live and it's not useable elsewhere.

So some pics of course....

So the big ass jack that needs some work....refresh of seals, it works but it's slow...and of course the blocking so it won't fall.

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And here is the tank for my use...

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A nasty dent...hmm...maybe I can well...pound it out...???

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Not nice rust....at all...

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Yup...that's rust alright....****** thin skid plate...

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So I'll be using the skid plate...FOR NOW...maybe I'll patch it...MAYBE...

However I'll be checking the fuel tank out and installing ASAP.

Thanks for reading

Al

 

[gdhillon]

I see you guys got some of that white stuff on the ground haha, is it pretty chilly there?

 

[riotwarrior]

I see you guys got some of that white stuff on the ground haha, is it pretty chilly there?

We had almost a foot and a half nearly for a while, it's warmed up and windy here most of the time so it's going going going fast finally...I'm happy cause now I can get at some things....

This is just a small project I've gotta get done ASAP.

Next...if I can quick enough will be a transmission RE n RE...

Thanks for lookin

Al

 

[91idi]

I got a new tank free from a friend. He was going to do this but sold his truck. Even had fixed the pickup tubes

 

[7.3 powerstrok]

i would coat that tank with some fibreglass resin and some matt at least the bottom .

 

[riotwarrior]

i would coat that tank with some fibreglass resin and some matt at least the bottom .

*****....that's a bit more effort than I want to put into the project....I'll see how it turns out once I get the remaining fuel out and then turn it over and wire brush it...

First...get out fuel...run diesel truck and pump exhaust into tank for while....getting it safe for working on.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

*****....that's a bit more effort than I want to put into the project....

Even if wirewheeling comes out alright, I'd still highly consider glassing (or something) that tank - that fuel card you mentioned does you no good if what you put in the tank slowly leaks out as you drive.

Also, use the Bronco float and arm on the truck sender, re-bend arm as needed to get full swing up-down. When mine goes to "E" I still got like 5 gallons left, and when it's full I can still add like 2 more - I'm happy w/ that, gives me some margin for operator error on both sides. I also got a set of PSD fuel pickup/sender assemblies, them are stainless steel - planning on installing those some time in the near future, cause my factory ones didn't look too hot IIRC.

 

[Rot Box]

Looking forward to this one I'm wanting to do something similar eventually.

 

[riotwarrior]

Even if wirewheeling comes out alright, I'd still highly consider glassing (or something) that tank - that fuel card you mentioned does you no good if what you put in the tank slowly leaks out as you drive.

Also, use the Bronco float and arm on the truck sender, re-bend arm as needed to get full swing up-down. When mine goes to "E" I still got like 5 gallons left, and when it's full I can still add like 2 more - I'm happy w/ that, gives me some margin for operator error on both sides. I also got a set of PSD fuel pickup/sender assemblies, them are stainless steel - planning on installing those some time in the near future, cause my factory ones didn't look too hot IIRC.

We will see...it's NOT leaking any fuel now...nor has it...that could be superficial rust and transfer from the skid plate..as it's the worse...

I just won't worry till I get it cleaned up a bit...and in case...I GOTS GLASS!

 

[riotwarrior]

So....after much wire BRUSH the tank has as many PIN HOLES as my old diesel tank did....sumbeach...that is two for two turds...

It's NOT as bad as that diesel was...so perhaps I can braze up those holes....better run some exhaust into the tank for while I suppose...rofl..NO need go KaFREAKINBoOm in me own shop now is there?

Looks like a 38 Gallon rear is in the near future perhaps...

Well one good thing....SuperWifey's convertable mustang got some fuel today....


DON"TCHA just love it when the rust actually SEALS the pin holes...rofl...too damn funny...that tank has sat for several months...not leaked a drop!

*****

Just sayin...sometimes Rust is YER friend....

Al

 

[madpogue]

Same stoopid design as the stock tank, with the skid plate(s) acting as the straps. Road crud gets onto the top of the plate where the tank sits on it, and eventually rusts them both (usu. it's the tank that rusts through first). DUMB design. Get some studs or threaded rod, and some spacers (1-1.5"), and some extra nuts and washers. Mount the tank with straps made for it. Then slip the spacers on the studs, put the skid plate up on the studs, then another set of nuts and washers to hold the plate. This leaves a space between the tank and the skid plate, and so any crud sitting on the skid plate won't rust the tank. And you can get in under there with a car wash wand and clean the crud out now and then.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Same stoopid design as the stock tank, with the skid plate(s) acting as the straps. Road crud gets onto the top of the plate where the tank sits on it, and eventually rusts them both (usu. it's the tank that rusts through first). DUMB design. Get some studs or threaded rod, and some spacers (1-1.5"), and some extra nuts and washers. Mount the tank with straps made for it. Then slip the spacers on the studs, put the skid plate up on the studs, then another set of nuts and washers to hold the plate. This leaves a space between the tank and the skid plate, and so any crud sitting on the skid plate won't rust the tank. And you can get in under there with a car wash wand and clean the crud out now and then.

The same problem exists w/ front tank skids as well, the front tank does have its own straps but the "crossmembers" of the skid are so close to the tank bottom that the spaces gets pack w/ muck against them just as easy as the rear skid. When I put a skid on my truck i deliberately made it hang like an inch and a half below the tank, it don't hold stuff and in the off chance it gets bent it likely won't deform the tank above it.

 

[typ4]

Silver solder works well too, I liked it because of the liquid flux. I didnt have any holes just almost holes, thats why when those tanks came up for 120.00 something I bought one, to hell with that rusty crap.

 

[mobilemech]

So....after much wire BRUSH the tank has as many PIN HOLES as my old diesel tank did....sumbeach...that is two for two turds...

It's NOT as bad as that diesel was...so perhaps I can braze up those holes....better run some exhaust into the tank for while I suppose...rofl..NO need go KaFREAKINBoOm in me own shop now is there?

Looks like a 38 Gallon rear is in the near future perhaps...

Well one good thing....SuperWifey's convertable mustang got some fuel today....


DON"TCHA just love it when the rust actually SEALS the pin holes...rofl...too damn funny...that tank has sat for several months...not leaked a drop!

*****

Just sayin...sometimes Rust is YER friend....

Al

jeffs bronco graveyard, $149.00 for a poly tank and no rust ever

 

[burt]

So what made you shy away from the cheap ebay tank? Seams like an easier solution than rehabing that crusty bronco tank. With free shipping is it too good to be true? sounds like using gas tanks for diesels has a good enough track record ( as far as ive read) right? Thanks for the wright up btw