Talk me down off the edge, I think the engine is toast

flareside_thun

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Had this same problem before on another truck, turned out to be a few injector lines that were not in their appropriate places on the IP.
 

Shadetreemechanic

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I put on a remote starter so that I could listen to it turning over before it starts. I can hear a noise even as it turns over with no fuel. I think (maybe) that rules out injectors.
Then I pulled the passenger side valve cover again and removed the rockers from the number 8. Everything looks fine on top, but when I turn it over without the rockers on the number 8 the noise goes away.
I got ballsy and started it with the number 8 rockers loosened and again the noise is much less. When I tighten the rockers the noise comes back.
I also noticed that there is steam coming out around the number 1 and number 8 intake valves when it is running. Seems like compression is getting past the valves.
So, my theory is that there is carbon keeping the intake valve from seating and giving me low compression readings and a knocking sound from the intake.
I guess the remedy is an italian tuneup. :dunno
Otherwise I suppose it could be a burnt valve?
Thoughts on my new theory?
 

GOOSE

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I went through a mess of valvetrain issues. With the help of Typ4, Dieseldogcatcher and Dieselcrawler, we got to the bottom of things. Turns out the oil pressure bypass got clogged or stuck, causing an excess amount of oil pressure to hydrolock the valvetrain. I had bent nearly all of the pushrods multiple times, punched a pushrod through one of the rockers and cracked another rocker at the base.

Corey helped me rebuild an oil cooler which replaced the one in my truck and replaced the lifters and pushrods with some used ones. I installed an aftermarket gauge to really see what the oil pressure was doing after that mess. Thankfully this put an end to my woes.:angel: I wouldn't be afraid to pull your rockers and push rods for a better inspection, I was quite surprised when I pulled mine.:eek:

I can't say for sure if you share the same issue, just thought I'd share a possibility. Best of luck man;Sweet
 

Black dawg

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do you have a stethoscope to put on the rocker bolts with it running? Personally I would diagnose it just a bit more before I beat on it. It would suck to lose the whole motor over something much cheaper.
 

Shadetreemechanic

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On the rocker bolts is a good idea. I have done the steel rod listen on the injectors, intake manifold @ each cylinder and on the exhaust manifolds. It is such a pain to get the valve cover gasket back on I may be done with it for the day.
The italian tuneup did not work. It actually idles worse now than it did before.
Normally I would just pull it in the shop and dig into it, but this superduty has a ****** box on the back and is too tall to get in the shop.
 

icanfixall

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The cylinders on the passenger side of the engine are...1, 3, 5, 7.... on the drivers side they are 2, 4, 6, 8... Look closely at the top of the intake runners near the heads. There is the cylinder numbers cast into the manifold. Intake valves don't burn. You noise tells me something is wrong in the valves in the heads. Any bads seals because of worn guides will allow the "steam" as you stated to be leaking up out of the guides and seals. The only way carbon can build up on the seats is if the valves rotaters stop working. The design here is a vlave rotates in the heads as it opens and closes. This turning keeps the seats clean.
 

Shadetreemechanic

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whap whap whap whap whap....... BAM
Thats what happened. It will be a couple of months before the post mordem, but as it went I felt like it was a bottom end issue.
The motor started to chirp like a bearing spinning and binding and then it stopped.
Now I am in the market for a motor.
 

GOOSE

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whap whap whap whap whap....... BAM
Thats what happened. It will be a couple of months before the post mordem, but as it went I felt like it was a bottom end issue.
The motor started to chirp like a bearing spinning and binding and then it stopped.
Now I am in the market for a motor.

Rut Ro Raggy. Thats not good:eek:
 

Shadetreemechanic

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I probably shouldn't have let it lock up, but it was ******* me off. I spent alot of time and money putting my shop together and built the door so I can get both my truck and tractor in without problems.
This truck has a stand up ****** body on it so even after I let all the air out of the tires and disconnected the rear spring shackles it was still 3 inches too tall. I could get the cab in but it was a good ten feet from the overhead hoist I need to pull the motor.
I blew it up driving it to a friend's warehouse with 14 foot doors. It will probably sit there until he gets tired of looking at it.
 

typ4

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I bet the guides are toast in the heads and a valve spring broke and dropped a valve.
Bummer its broke. It might be an easy fix if it didnt hole the block.
 

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