Surging pump then missing

[geno8769]

I have a weird problem. I tried to search before asking.

My ip is a rebuilt uhaul pump, my inceptors are from typ4. I have a new lift pump, new tank selector valve.

I have a full tanks and I and getting surges, and then the motor starts missing. I pulled the tank down and blew out the lines. I put it back together, and I still have the same problem.

Could it be the ip? What else should I check?

Please help.

 

[gatorman21218]

Just because its new, does not mean it works.

With that in mind, It sounds like you are either getting air in the fuel system or are starving for fuel.

Did you replace the fuel filter?

Did you replace all the hardline olives?

Did this happen right after you changed the lift pump?

 

[gatorman21218]

Just because its new, does not mean it works.

With that in mind, It sounds like you are either getting air in the fuel system or are starving for fuel.

Did you replace the fuel filter?

Did you replace all the hardline olives?

Did this happen right after you changed the lift pump?

 

[joe f350]

how did u time the motor if u havent all ready i think it more related to timing

 

[DeepRoots]

overly advanced will give many of the same symptoms as air in the lines.

 

[geno8769]

I have new return lines which dont leak from typ4. We did not touch the timing when we pulled the old pump. But I have driven 9000 miles on the new pump.

It seems to do it more on the front tank. Could the selector valve be only partially switching to the front tank, and then getting air that way?

It just started about 500-600 miles ago when I changed the fuel filter.

It started and died, and wouldnt restart. I changed the filter, and then found black specs, or what I now know to be pieces the fuel pick-up in the filter.

So timing could be causing the same symptoms?

Thanks.

 

[itsacrazyasian]

if you are getting bits of the fuel pickup in your filter, than you're sucking air in the tank as you're not picking fuel up from the bottom of the tank, or someone stuck a piece of hose in the sender and a piece of the fuel pickup is partially clogging the pickup. Had that happen once.

 

[GenLightening]

I have new return lines which dont leak from typ4. We did not touch the timing when we pulled the old pump. But I have driven 9000 miles on the new pump.

If you never had it timed then it's not timed. The timing marks on the pumps are not in the same place on each pump or housing, so it needs to be timed.

 

[DeepRoots]

Geno.... It is pretty clear you don't understand how timing on one of these engines works.
You should run the search program here on the forum, I think Mel still has an article up about it.

where are you in SE La anyhow?
I'm on a tug on the Calcasieu River at the moment.... If my boat heads that way I'll drop you a line, I could time it by ear and explain how it all works in about 15minutes on a dock somewhere.

good luck,
Drew

 

[DeepRoots]

doublepost

 

[Diesel JD]

Yep, static timing only works well enough to get the thing running and not break parts, it does not guarantee it will run well. Drew is right about the advanced timing giving symptoms of air in the fuel, since before I knew any better I had mine advanced all the way and 2 teeth jumped in the advanced direction on the gear. Amazing I didn't kill the engine then! It could be related to a problem with something clogging the fuel pickup. That requires pulling the bed, but it isn't too bad if you have 3 or 4 people to help out. There are ways to pull it with just one person if you have the right tools though. This should be your first check. You should probably ditch the showerhead pickup and fishmouth a piece of fuel injection rated 3/8" ID hose. You must cut it long enough to reach the bottom but short enough that it doesn't interfere with the seal of the locking ring. Fill up the fuel tank and slosh it around good before you put everything back together. With the fuel tanks empty and the bed off servicing both tanks is pretty easy. As to the timing, your only good option is to take it to someone with luminosity or pulse timing tools or let someone who knows diesels time it by ear. I believe Deeproots that he could do a good job of it. His truck is well timed.

 

[geno8769]

Where could I get the truck timed? How much do you think the dealership would charge?

 

[DeepRoots]

a wild guess here....
you are NOT going to find a dealership that can do any better than you can do. They neither have the tools nor the skills to work on something that was made before most of the "techs" were born.

My truck is timed by ear, it took a long time of tiny adjustments and driving it for a few days than making more adjustments until I got a good balance of fuel economy and power.

For starters, break the three IP bolts loose and rotate the IP to the driverside 1/16 of an inch, tighten everything up and go for a ride. Adjust from there. Driverside is retarding it, pass side is advancing it.
This is NOT like a distributor on a gas engine do NOT do this with the engine running.

Pulling the bed to check fuel tanks is easy with a cherry picker. Take off tailgate, take off 8 bed bolts, attach cherry picker to rear of bed and lift slightly. Disconnect fuel filler necks and pick up a lil more.... disconnect rear lighting and raise the rest of the way.
Ain't perfect but it'll give you enough room to work with.

 

[geno8769]

1/16" to the drivers side. Gotcha.

Yesterday I took the front tank out, cleaned all of the crap out, and then blew out the lines. Put a 3/8" piece of fuel line on the hard line and re-installed.

After work I am gonna put some diesel in the tank and see if I can get her to run correctly.

Is it possible that teh selector valve could be caught between tanks?

I have had a miss since I put the new IP in, so it may be too advance.

I appreciate everones help.

I work in New Orleans and live in Mandeville.

 

[DeepRoots]

wow that'd mean I'd have to leave the Bayou.... nope aint gonna work

selector valves normally don't fail like that. Best way to test fuel lines and or the FSV is with a handheld vacuum pump. I disconnect a fuel line in the engine bay, draw the fuel 3ft up a clear hose and go for a walk. It should hold for some time.
Also plugging or crimping the hose near the tank and drawing 20in of vacuum on the line will show if you have any air leaks.... it should hold near 20in of vac for several hours. I don't like pressurized air in fuel lines for two reasons:
A. The line typically functions under vacuum, NOT pressure, so the failure mode is different.
B. Too easy to pop something with over excited pressurizing.


Either way, looking at your problem.... you changed a pump and now have a problem. So unless there was some freak problem, it's a pump problem until you prove otherwise.
Change the timing and it'll probably clear up.