Superchared diesel inside here...

seawalkersee

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Yeah....There is this whole thing about having a grinder, a drill press, a 2 ton press, and a wire feed welder. I can use the stuff, but it is like trying to fashion tires out of wood. It CAN be done, but it will not be what you want.

I need to find a place where I can get a sleeve to fit it. Measuring out from there will be easy. I can measure the run out and tack it. Then, take it to my buddies and have him weld it.

However, found a tailgate and some doors for cheap. Gate has glass so I will go pick it up today after finish welding on my bumper. Should put me back on top of the game. God is helping me today.

SWS
 

seawalkersee

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So today I rolled over to meet a guy at a storage shed. Got a pair of doors, new (to me) tail gate, hood, tail lights, drive shafts, and all of the windows for all of the doors/gate. Most of the stuff will require next to no body work befor hanging them.

So I pulled up and met the guy, and he said follow me. We went to the storage shed and as I backed up to it and got out, he said "So...did YOU put the diesel in that?" So I showed him all of the inns and outs to the good stuff that I had hiding under the hood. When I was showing the supercharger, I immediately noticed belt dust on the blower snout. This confirms that part of my theory that the belt was slipping. Tomorrow, I will try to get some bubble soap in a sprayer and see how much I am losing at the top and intake. I bet there is some going there and that is why it moves the gauge but will not show boost on the gauge. If I fix those two things, there should be measurable boost. I will also start trying so source a metal sleeve to put the pulley together.

SWS
 

hairyboxnoogle

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Farther back when you guys were talking about boost at idle and too much. I was kinda thinking that too much would just kill the engine since it is just idling. But perhaps not. I cant see 5 or 6 lbs being too much to hurt anything at all. Im with you guys on the blower tho, stock 6.9 + M90, perfect combo. 7.3 might want the 112 for more boost. Especially with a factory serp setup doesnt seem that impossible of a task. Even if the blower is being double over driven compared to it being on a 3.8, you still have to think the blowers max rpms are the same on the IDI. I like your project seawalker, you could really crank the fuel ramp on that thing with the blower, then add a torque cam, you could have gobs of power down low. Major stump puller.
 

seawalkersee

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I will try to explain it like this. As you get inot the normal RPMs, this think is G R E A T. The problem lies in 3rd and 4th gear while driving. As soon as you shift, it has a few (probably 500) RPM if you are in a hill, you will lug the crap out of it. It starts dumping smoke and slowly accelarating. What I want, is there to be enough air at that RPM to move this thing out of that RPM band quickly. I rarely use 1st unless I AM pulling stumps...which is how I broke the rusty bumper off of the frame:). I would not want to go over 6psi at idle with what I have yet. The reason is, I still have the factory springs and am not sure what will start pushing them/causing them to leak. And I will not be adding fuel in the future. I have no interest in making more power with fuel than I have at this point. I only want to add air and go from there.

SWS
 

88 Ford

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Could the lugging be cus of having the boost sealed and then loosing it and back and fourth. Idk could be a possibility...
 

seawalkersee

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No. Its because the RMPs are lower than the speed of that gear. IE 1st gear is done by like 8mph. If second gear had no power 'till like 15mph because the gearing was even taller, it would be like 600rpm (example only). So, trying to speed up is hard just into each gear. When I get boost, it will make more power there and be easier to pull out of the hole.

SWS
 

seawalkersee

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Nothing yet. Today, I installed the new back window and started looking at some of the other issues that MAY become problems. It wanders on the road pretty badly. I pulled the steering sector and it was starting to crack at one of the welds, so it will obviously not work. I will add the flaming river joint and rod to it tomorrow to see if that will fix some of the play. Also, the box seems to have more than I want too, but I will see how much the sector shaft will fix. That will not take long and I will more than likely add the tensioner tomorrow. I will have pix when I do it.

As far as the boost leak goes, I have not had a chance to even look at it yet. Tomorrow, I will see what I have after I get the belt slip issue addressed.

SWS
 

seawalkersee

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Well...I knew there were going to be some issues. There are no good first builds without some back tracking. Not in a back yard. So, with that, I got the steering done from the sector shaft done from the box to the column.

I also mixed up some water and soap and put it in the sprayer. Found the top leaking...quite a bit as a matter of fact. I had a few couplers that were leaking too. Fixed them, but not the top yet as I ran out of time. Its snowing and I need to drive it tonight. If it is fairly good weather tomorrow, I will get the top sealed and start on the new idler.

Pulling off the bumper messed up the brake light on the driver's side (so now I only have 1). I need to fix that and try to figure out how to make the fuel filler flow without backing up in a 1/4 gal.

SWS
 

lotzagoodstuff

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I need to fix that and try to figure out how to make the fuel filler flow without backing up in a 1/4 gal.

SWS

FYI, take a screwdriver and a hammer and open up the vent hold on your fuel fill, it takes 30 seconds and made a great improvement on my truck. I'll see if I can find the link with pics, very simple.
 
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