Suggestions for injectors on an 88 f-250 with a 7.3 banks IDI

[87F2507.3Banks]

I just recently bought a 1988 Ford F-250 4x4 with a 7.3 IDI out of a 1992. It has a banks sidewinder, open element k&n air filter and 3" straight pipe from the turbo back. The truck needs new injectors according to the previous owner and I would agree. It has a rough time running when cold, until it warms up, it smokes excessively until it idles down. After that it runs well as long as you keep it below 2,500 rpm. Anything above that and it struggles to breathe. I am pretty certain that part of the problem is the backpressure from the exhaust, it's 3" but over the axle is pretty restricted and can't be helping it breathe. I'm planning on running 4" from the downpipe back in the next month or so and would like to get some input on which injectors to run, I've heard that the BB injectors are the best to use, how much to turn up the pump, etc. This is my first diesel, I've always wanted one and now that I have it, I want to do it right. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks,
Michael J. Morris

 

[79jasper]

Contact Mel with Conestoga diesel. His user name here is Agnem.
Or Russ, his user name is Typ4.
Both great people to work with.

And first thing, get rid of the k&n filter. Do some searching for threads about k&n filters on turbo diesel's. (Google)

 

[stumiister]

The exhaust has nothing to do with its ability to breathe
You may have a problem with air getting into the fuel system through the return lines on the injectors, or may even have a bad IP and or injectors going out.But 3" exhaust is plenty big enough.

 

[whiteboyslo]

Is the exhaust system on there the one that was offered with the Banks kit? They offered a 3" with an option to upgrade to 3.5" IIRC. Either way, I don't think the exhaust is your issue. I have the full Sidewinder kit on mine (non wastegate) and she doesn't really have an issue breathing.

And while we can debate the validity of a K&N being good or bad for a vehicle (please, let's not), I don't think that's your issue either, unless it looks like its under an inch of dirt.

Mike

 

[OLDBULL8]

First thing is get rid of your Email address unless you want a ton of mail there. Lots of snoops look at these forums.

As stated above BB code injectors are your best bet. Yeah, Agnem or TYPE4 for them.

If you don't have an EGT temp guage, don't mess with the IP fuel adjust until you have one.

As far as smoking and running ruff at start up, make sure your cold idle solenoid and and cold advance solenoid on the IP is working. Your timing may be retarded also, never know what the PO of the engine has done, get the timing checked. To set the cold idle solenoid, after the key is on, push the GO peddle to the floor, that will allow the CIS plunger to advance. That raises the idle RPM to 900 RPM, the RPM can be adjusted there with a 1/4" wrench, screw in or out. There is a temp sensor by #1 injector the controls them, soon as the head temp reaches 120 degrees the CIS and CAS de-energizes and the RPM returns to 650.

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. We need more info about the engine. How many miles are on the injection pump and the injecters will help. Most here agree that the pump and injecters are worn out around 125,000 miles. some get more and some get less. Knowing if the engine has ever had the pump replaced will help too. Knowing how the pump was replaced really helps. Doing it the easy way is the wrong way but lets not dwell on that yet. Please try to post some answers for more useable help.

 

[87F2507.3Banks]

Unfortunately, I am just taking the word of the previous owner on a lot of this information, so I'm not sure how accurate it is. I was told that the engine was taken out of a rolled 1992 with 120,000 miles on it. I don't know if anything has been done to the engine, but the banks exhaust was not used. It looks to me like the banks downpipe was used, but then it just the original 3" exaust pipe with the muffler deleted. He said the engine had not been touched. The banks guages were not retained from the donor truck and an aftermarket "homemade" intake tube was fabbed with 3" and a 14" long open element k&n. The idle control motor is functioning correctly, as it will idle at 900 if the go pedal is depressed before start up. It's during the first 3 minutes or so that it runs so rough. It spitters and sputs like it is running on 6 cylinders until warm. Once it is warm it runs great loaded and unloaded up to around 2200 rpm, anything above that and it acts like a gas motor running on a rev limiter (best way I can describe it). Truck has good oil pressure (45 psi cold and 30psi at operating temp on a mechanical guage)

 

[79jasper]

Sounds almost like it may have the U-Haul IP. They're governed right around there IIRC.

Check your fuel pressure at WOT.

The startup sputter sounds almost like a dead cylinder, then when it's warmed up it'll finally start burning.

Also ran someone floor the peddle (engine off) while you look at the throttle arm on the pump, see if it's moving all the way like it should.

 

[cpdenton]

I just got a banks turbo kit and have been doing a lot of research on what it takes to install one. In the instructions, it says that the factory muffler is unacceptable to run with a banks turbo kit. What that means, I don't know, but they say to run a free flowing exhaust system with them. I have not installed mine yet, so I have no experience with them, but when you buy their turbo kits, they include an exhaust system.

 

[87F2507.3Banks]

Thank you, I am very glad to have found a forum to help me gain a better understanding of my truck. I have always been a chevy gas guy, mainly square bodies, but am excited to make the plunge into the diesel world!

 

[87F2507.3Banks]

So, just out of curiosity, does anyone know if there is a direct relation between the oil pressure sending unit and the fuel system? My engine light is on and the original oil pressure gauge is disconnected, due to using a mechanical gauge. I'm hoping that maybe this has something to do with it?? I have looked at everything that everyone has suggested with the same results. I'm starting to think that the injectors and possibly the pump are failing.

 

[typ4]

there is no relation to the light on and the fuel system. if you get in a jam im not far away and i have new injectors on hand.

 

[riotwarrior]

So, just out of curiosity, does anyone know if there is a direct relation between the oil pressure sending unit and the fuel system? My engine light is on and the original oil pressure gauge is disconnected, due to using a mechanical gauge. I'm hoping that maybe this has something to do with it?? I have looked at everything that everyone has suggested with the same results. I'm starting to think that the injectors and possibly the pump are failing.

First Welcome to OB, sounds like a good truck, and hopefully you can get this all sorted out.

I'd strongly suggest getting a Pyro on that truck as a minuimum and keeping an eye on those EGT temps.

As said Mel and Russ are the GO TO guys for IP and or injectors and such. Now seeing as your in Oregon, Russ is in that state and could be close by I have no idea as I don't know that area I'm a Canuckleheaded Canadian!

Take a few minutes to go through the FAQ for IDI's and the Tech section too, lots of great info in there for you as a new to diesel guy.

Also peek at the Hall of Shame so your hard earned $$$ don't depart into hands of unscrupulous vendors known to well...known to not be the best at either providing service or quality parts.

For the ENGINE LIGHT being on, sounds to me like the 242 deg engine temp sensor tripped or the wiring to it is shorting out. This is part of the two part temperature sensing system Ford used.

There is a Large temp sensor in the front of the HEAD on the Drivers side, if it's faulty or wiring is shorting out it will cause the engine light to come on.

I'll see about pics later for you to better provide location.

Others will chime in with opinions on whats up with yer engine light but my suspicion is the sender is kaput!

Here is Gary's response in another thread about the same thing...in essense

I agree with the above posting. Heres why.. The dash temp gauge is driven by two differant senders. Mainly its driven by the small sender located just to the drivers side of the injection pump. Then when the coolant temp reaches 242 degrees the large sender found in the front of the drivers head closes and the dash gauge will peg over to way past hot. To test this just remove that wire and ground the wire. The dash gauge will peg no matter hot engine or ice cold engine. You can try removing the wire to that large sender and isee if the problem continues.. If it does not then your large sender is going bad..

Again, welcome to OB

Al

 

[icanfixall]

Russ who goes by typ4 is located in oregon. He is very fair with what he sells. I recommend a set of BB code injecters from him. I bet he will install them for you too for a fair cost. He even has a timing meter too so have him time the engine for best hp and fuel mileage.

 

[riotwarrior]

Engine light info...

Hope this helps you out...

Here just above PS cap I'm pointing at OVER TEMP sender.

You must be registered for see images attach

Any more questions?

Al