Sorry for no progress reports for so long. I dont get sat down at a normal computer much anymore, and I am not going to type out lengthy stuff on a smartphone, and my memory on some of this might be off a bit now.
So the puller guy at work that I have mentioned before got me a few springs to try in the IP. The diaphram that the spring pushes against controlls the flow of fuel in conjunction with turbo boost. From what he is explaining to me, there is not enough resistance against the diaphram at lower boost. He gave me three springs. Two were the same, and one was significantly stiffer than the other two, but they were all stiffer and longer than the original. I put one of the matching two in, and ran the star wheel tension down about halfway across the acess window. To combat some of the whine coming from the transmission, I added three more quarts of Amsoil 75-140 synthetic to it and put some water pipe insulation over the shifter. Modified an early Bronco heater box and mounted it on passenger side inside firewall. Spent a lot of time trying to come up with some ductwork to run heated air to defroster ducts in dashpad, but never got finished hooking them up completely.
Drove it to DesMoines once in early winter to pick up some lumber and other stuff for a home project. Truck did fine other than the heater does not put out enough heat to keep inside of truck toasty while fighting wind chill of highway speeds. Tranny was quieter, but at a price that I was to pay later.
Didnt use truck again untill early spring to haul a trailer load of mostly heavy axles and other 4x4 components to a swap meet a couple hours away. Family went with me despite my warnings that it might get a bit cool in truck going down the interstate. We bundled up and did just fine. Truck did fine for power. Stiffer spring helped eliminate some of the low RPM smoke, but still a lot more than I want to see. Still annoyingly noisy in cab- tranny whine, engine growl, and a reverberation coming from the hydroboost unit that I am assuming is because the gear pump pushes way more fluid through the hydroboost unit than it was engineered to see. About a half hour away from destination, I noticed on some steeper hills that the clutch was apparently slipping a tad. Tach would climb a bit all of a sudden with no increase in speed. Did it occasionally on the way home too. I knew it had a bit of a leak at the rear of the engine, so I assumed it was the rear main seal.
A few weeks after that, I set about to put in a new rear seal and oil pan gasket and clean the clutch off. Couple of friends came over to help for the day. While I had the transmission off, I decided to replace it with the spare one I had bought when I picked up the first. Was hoping it might run a bit quieter than the first one. Shortly after doing that, I went to another swap meet with a trailer load of stuff a couple of hours away. Happily, the second tranny WAS noticably quieter, but dammit, the clutch was slipping a bit worse!! Also, it was a fairly warm day on the return trip home, and the engine heat soaking through the firewall was very uncomfortable.
Another teardown was planned to do a few things- another rear main seal, have clutch disk replaced/relined, put some sound deadener/heat insulation on engine side of firewall, intall the heavy spring in the IP, and add a flow divider to send some of the excess flow from power steering pump back to resovoir instead of forcing it all through the hydroboost.
Went to the trouble to pull cab back off mostly for ease of putting something on firewall for noise and heat, plus the benefit of doing clutch work from above. Replacing spring in IP is doable with body on, but much easier with it out of the way too. Found that the rear main seal was bone dry. Seems the oil is coming from the transmission input shaft. Figured the combination of a worn seal and overfilled case was the problem, but upon pulling the sleeve that fits over the input shaft, there is no seal and never was intended to be one. there is a drain hole to let any fluid that gets in there get back into the case, but I can see gear teeth mostly covering the hole which makes me wonder if I should be using thinner oil to allow it to drain back into case quicker. There is not enough meat in the part to machine it to press in a seal, but there is room to hopefully epoxy one in. The shaft where the seal will ride is machined nice and smooth, so it should seal OK on it and not tear up the seal. Just got the clutch disk back a couple of days ago. If I manage to do a satisfactory job of getting a seal on the input shaft, I think I will try to run some 70-140 oil at normal level first. If that is too noisy, I will try overfilling it with something lighter.
I am definitely wanting to do a P pump swap, but I have other things more important right now to spend big money on. I will try to get my moneys worth out of this A pump for now.
If I can get this thing quieted down and tame the heat issues in it, I might be more enthusiastic to drop the coin on the P pump conversion.
so i'd like to run some form of pressure/volume relief s I don't burn up the h/b or p/s box.
