andrewbourdeaux
Registered User
What about the oil filter by chance? I just did an oil change before this trip that I took.
Slow start at 47 °F ... Glow plugs?
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RSchanz
Full Access Member
I'm probably not the greatest person to answer these questions but if the filter is snug and not leaking then I can't imagine that being an issue. Do the return lines have fuel on them?
Also, I'm not sure if this has already been done but I would just test the relay. My truck was having the same problem this morning but I have a glow plug bypass. The issue was the manual switch not working therefore not heating up the gps. Since you don't have the bypass maybe the relay or something else along the way is damaged.
Farmer Rock
just a fella' without a 10mm socket
Like RSshanz said,the water separator and return lines are the most common.Having said that,just give all your fuel lines a good look over,including the hard lines.I have had a couple hard lines rub through and not leak,but sucked air,and was almost impossible to find.The return lines are by far the most common cause of air intrusion and the kits are only like $35,just make sure they have vinton o rings.Return lines are cheap insurance as it is,and well worth it.Just pull the filter to be sure or plug in your block heater for like 3 hours.Either way will tell you for sure.If it starts with the block heater or the fuel filter is full,then it's a glow plug problem,and if it hard starts with the block heater or the filter isn't completely full,then it's an air intrusion problem.Also i assume you mean the fuel filter was changed,but if it was running and starting afterwards,I wouldn't worry about that.The only time it would matter,is if you didn't fill the filter before installing,then it would be difficult to start immediately after,or there could possibly be some air left in the lines from that.
Rock
rhkcommander
Full Access Member
Upfront i haven't had time to watch your videos...
If you have white smoke readily you should be primed up.
My guess is your engine is tired like my old one was. If all 8 plugs didn't work it wouldn't light off under 40F. Manual glowplugs with Bosch helped the most, they seem to be hotter than beru. I would try to bypass the gp relay for 8 seconds, unplug the small S post so the gp controller can't cycle it first. You can jump the S post from the hot big post, or more risky is just jump the two big posts for a spark show at your risk. 8 seconds, Then floor it and crank. Does it at least stumble? Any black/blue smoke?
If you need to limp it along try 5w-40 oil, if it still cranks poorly could be starter issues too.
If you have white smoke readily you should be primed up.
My guess is your engine is tired like my old one was. If all 8 plugs didn't work it wouldn't light off under 40F. Manual glowplugs with Bosch helped the most, they seem to be hotter than beru. I would try to bypass the gp relay for 8 seconds, unplug the small S post so the gp controller can't cycle it first. You can jump the S post from the hot big post, or more risky is just jump the two big posts for a spark show at your risk. 8 seconds, Then floor it and crank. Does it at least stumble? Any black/blue smoke?
If you need to limp it along try 5w-40 oil, if it still cranks poorly could be starter issues too.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
On top of what Rock said you can press in the shrader valve on the fuel filter with a small flat or Phillips head to bleed the air out of it
andrewbourdeaux
Registered User
Yes, this is the case.
So, maybe my plugs are just old and need replaced? Why jump right to mechanically toggling the plugs? Is there a benefit here vs. just replacing plugs?
Will try this tomorrow and let you know what I get.
Thanks!
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
If your glow plug controller isn't working right, but your glow plugs are, this will let the engine start. If it doesn't star from doing this, then it's probably time to check/replace your glow plugs.
andrewbourdeaux
Registered User
Oh you are saying just as a temporary test to diagnose if it is or not?
IDIBRONCO
IDIBRONCO
Yes.
andrewbourdeaux
Registered User
I tested this today. Started up and immediately shut it back off. Started the second time with maybe a 2-3 delay. Thoughts?
Would a leak in the power steering pressure line have anything to do with any of this?
miles1400
Full Access Member
@andrewbourdeaux any spot where fuel can leak air will get in causeing air intrusion.
andrewbourdeaux
Registered User
Okay. So if I get white smoke right away as I start cranking does this rule air intrusion out? Seems to be primed fine.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
You can test your glow plugs with a multi meter and it’s more accurate than a test light. Someone will correct me if I’m wrong but take the cap off the GP and put positive there and put negative on ground. You should get a reading of 7-8 ohms per GP. I believe you want to disconnect all of the GP caps first.
I think you should focus on one thing first then move to the next. Honestly, I would sort out the GP system then move to air intrusions. It’s basically the first thing that needs to happen to turn the engine over. With air intrusions you would have a rough idle or if it’s pretty bad it would die
I think you should focus on one thing first then move to the next. Honestly, I would sort out the GP system then move to air intrusions. It’s basically the first thing that needs to happen to turn the engine over. With air intrusions you would have a rough idle or if it’s pretty bad it would die
andrewbourdeaux
Registered User
Will do. It idles smooth as soon as it turns over after sitting for 24 hours. It's just getting it to fire quickly that's the issue right now. It has also never not turned over. It was -2 °F in the morning a couple weeks ago and it fired up without running the block heater. Cranked slower but that's a given at that temperature. You can watch either of the videos on my original post to hear it idle after start.
RSchanz
Full Access Member
I would still just narrow out the glow plug situation then jump to the next. And I need to correct myself on the last post. Mine read .7 ohms which is obviously relative to the setting you use on your multimeter but here is a link that explains how to test them https://www.oilburners.net/threads/how-to-test-glow-plugs.35369/
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