SD perforemance brakes?

BJS

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If done correctly the drilling and slotting does not weaken the rotors at all.

I'd be intrested to see the drilled/slotted replacement rotors for these trucks as to if they are a solid piece or are they a modified version of what we had from the factory a vented rotor (2 pieces of metal w/ fins between them).

In theory you have less frictional surface but are allowing for greater heat dissipation through surface area for the air to contact.

The holes & slots would also provide even when sitting still a greater propensity for cooling especially when you are forced to sit with your foot on the brakes after a hard stop. Convection currents work wonders for cooling in liquids as well as in the air which is where even when not moving the drilled/slotted rotors will benefit. When it comes to a reduced mass of the rotors I sincerely doubt that there is any significant reduction in mass as most makers compensate by making the metal thicker and decreasing the vent area between what is esseentially 2 different disks.
 

mjstef

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On TDS, Here and other places i keep hearing about warped rotors. I have had 2 superduties and both to about 40% of the time. My 2000 i sold at 117,000 miles with the original brakes and i have 57K on my 03 with no problems. I just made 2 trips from Wi to Mt 1 at 23K and 1 at 21K too!! How are you guys warping your rotors???? :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
 

rvassar

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The PSD Excursion is notorious for warping front rotors. We warped ours roughly every 22,000 miles. -cuss


We decided to not fool around, and ordered a set of cryogenically treated slotted rotors and pads from frozenrotors.com. Freezing them in liquid nitrogen converts the impurities in the iron to different crystalline forms, and their web page claims some of the carbon gets converted to carbide. We originally wanted slotted and drilled, but we were told that they were more suited to race cars, and tended to crack on applications like ours. Wasn't cheap, but man do they work!

We put more than 8000 miles on them towing our 27' TT before the crosshatch disappeared. :hail

At the current wear rates, they appear to be good for 60K+.
 

GSD

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I dont know if ya'll seen my F-350, it weighs around 10-11K lbs, I pull two trailer often, and I've gone 25K miles now on my slotted rotors, and the pads that came from same place.
Frozenrotor.com

I keep thinking they've got to be worn out by now! but still ½ good!
 

Bushhog

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Well guys I finely decided on rotors. I went back with OEM. I just couldn't find enough justification for the added expense of the other rotors. I got mine from O'Reilly Auto Parts whit a lifetime warranty and put Wagner heavy duty semi-matallic pads back on. It's made a big differance but now I think I need to check the back brakes to make sure they function correctly.
 

Big Red CC Dually

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Bushhog said:
Well guys I finely decided on rotors. I went back with OEM. I just couldn't find enough justification for the added expense of the other rotors. I got mine from O'Reilly Auto Parts whit a lifetime warranty and put Wagner heavy duty semi-matallic pads back on. It's made a big differance but now I think I need to check the back brakes to make sure they function correctly.

If I could ask...as I have a dually too, how pricy were they??
 

Bushhog

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The OEM replacements were around $58 ea and the slotted and drill were $128 ea. With getting 147000 out of the OEM's it kinda became a no brainer for me. I will say this: It looks like a person can spend about as much $ as they can stand after seeing some of the prices for rotors.
 
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