reverse engine bog, ticking and...

Hydro-idi

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Even though many will disagree with my comments about seafoam, you can add an entire bottle of seafoam to fresh oil and leave it in for 3k miles. I have talked to the seafoam tech person and he said it will not harm anything but you should change the oil oil before the 3k mile marker if you see that the oil is getting very dirty. But most add a bottle with old oil and use it to "flush" an engine out.
Blackbear, if you have popped the valve covers off and everything seems to be in good working order, I am still leaning towards a worn or dirty lifter. Seafoam will clean a dirty lifter...but will not cure a worn lifter.
 

Hydro-idi

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You can add seafoam to your existing oil level. You will only be adding 12oz of product to your crankcase.
 

79jasper

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Even though many will disagree with my comments about seafoam, you can add an entire bottle of seafoam to fresh oil and leave it in for 3k miles. I have talked to the seafoam tech person and he said it will not harm anything but you should change the oil oil before the 3k mile marker if you see that the oil is getting very dirty. But most add a bottle with old oil and use it to "flush" an engine out.
Blackbear, if you have popped the valve covers off and everything seems to be in good working order, I am still leaning towards a worn or dirty lifter. Seafoam will clean a dirty lifter...but will not cure a worn lifter.

That's actually good to know. I was just going off the research I had done. But also my research was partly for the PSD, which is a no no with HEUI systems.
I've also had good results with Marvel Mystery Oil.
Do you have anything to say about it? (Good or bad welcome)
 

79jasper

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ok, i somewhat see how you mean. i was under the assumption an injector itself might be making the noise? do i need to remove some oil from the engine to add the seafoam or just dump it in? the oil level is right at full. as far as cleaning the connectors for the trans problem, which ones would those be other than the one on the trans?

If it was an injector and you loosened each one enough to cause a change in idle, it would've quit.
Unless maybe the injector was bad and letting combustion gasses back through the injector. (Not sure if that's feasible, maybe someone else can confirm or deny)

So I'm still with valvetrain.
Use a piece of rubber hose as a stethoscope to see if you can locate the noise. If it's a lifter, should get louder do near the valley pan, but if it's a collapsed lifter, it could still be louder at the valve cover.

For the trans wiring, just all of them you can find. The one on the pump, trans, and tcu.

This is the best I have for locations, but there's so many extra one's because this is for 96 trucks and broncos. http://www.thedieselstop.com/faq/9497faq/maint/stj/stj71a10.htm#extract_997
Maybe someone else has a better version or can just tell you exactly which ones.
 

blackbear

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great info guys, thank you very much for your input! i should have time tomorrow to look things over a little more closely. i too feel it would be one of the lifters from all that ive read. ill dump the seafoam in tomorrow and see what happens. ill let you know what comes about, thanks-
 

SLC97SR5

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So nothing abnormal when driving or idiling in neutral?

Did you disturb the torque converters position in the transmissions input shaft? If it only happens in reverse I am wondering about the tq converter being engaged properly.
 

blackbear

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SLC97SR5, yes i did remove the TC to replace the leaky seal behind it. i thought i read it needed to be sitting all the way back in the bellhouse to be properly installed, not flush with the front of the bellhouse. i would think with the engine installed it would be where it needs to be? besides reverse it funs fine, there was one or two instances though. i came to a red light and it began to lug when i stopped at the light so i put it in neutral and continued on. i think it did it once more that same trip when i reached the house to park. but has been fine ever since??? the only other thing ive noticed is a scuffing sound when put into gear, rev/dr. this sound started after changing the trans fluid...
 
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blackbear

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So I've got a couple more leaky fuel lines I've seem to have stopped, for now. I also believe to have isolated the ticking to the #3 cylinder. I drove up from oc to la this morning after putting in the seafoam (16oz) with no results. I think I'll leave it a little longer and change the oil when I drive back down.
 

smokin150

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I'd pop the valve cover and check the adj of the valves with the cover off.. to me it sounds like a lifter/rocker tap... so I'm in the valve train group as well... if somethings phyically out of adj up there sea foam won't do anything
 

blackbear

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i was under the impression the valves where not adjustable? im going to remove the pass side valve cover tomorrow and take a look. what will i be looking for exactly? im hoping to just find a loose rocker that needs to be re-torqued. if not, what should i look/test for? from reading, it is safe to run the engine with the cover off? i would think a lot of things will need to be removed in order to get the cover off, then put back in order to run the engine...
 

Hydro-idi

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i was under the impression the valves where not adjustable? im going to remove the pass side valve cover tomorrow and take a look. what will i be looking for exactly? im hoping to just find a loose rocker that needs to be re-torqued. if not, what should i look/test for? from reading, it is safe to run the engine with the cover off? i would think a lot of things will need to be removed in order to get the cover off, then put back in order to run the engine...

You can pop the valve covers off and have the engine running. It will just sling a little bit of oil. Make sure all of the rockers are torqued to spec. After that has been checked, look for sloppy rocker arms (engine off) and listen for any abnormal sounds with stethescope (engine on). If you find that there is a "tick" but the rockers look good, I would think it will be narrowed down to one or more worn lifters.
 

blackbear

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i ended up taking both valve covers off the other day and recorded them while running. i re-torqued the bolts but none were loose. i tried to just wiggle the rockers by hand to see if there was any play and they all feel really tight like i would think they should. while running i tried to stethoscope around everything and my best assumption is still in the #3/5 cylinders but i dont notice any abnormal movement while there running??? i still haven removed the seafoam either and its been at least 200 miles with that in the case. my neighbor suggest to just change out the oil but i dont see what that will do if the seafoam hasnt helped out yet? here is a couple clips of each bank:
pass side
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Ir26U8sWinw&feature=youtu.be
drv side
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=YbM_OcCRSVY
 

blackbear

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actually, after looking at these clips for awhile... on the pass. side, an intake and exhaust valve on the #3 and 5 (one from each cylinder) are opening and closing at the same time. while on the drv side, exhaust is opening and closing with the rest of the exhaust and same with the intake valves. or am i just over analyzing???
 

79jasper

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It could just be the firing order causing that. May be normal. Off hand I don't know the firing order.

How much seafoam did you use?
For a normal sized gas engine I use half a bottle.
Considering the idi holds nearly 3 gallons of oil, I would use at least 2 full bottles.
 

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