G.W BUFFALO
Full Access Member
Finger's crossed!!!!!!
Return line fun!...NOT!
- Thread starter Optikalillushun
- Start date
Optikalillushun
Registered User
I remember reading that. Sounded promosing but a little to expensive for me ATM.
Can someone post a pic of the inside of the old style 7.3 return caps?
Can someone post a pic of the inside of the old style 7.3 return caps?
G.W BUFFALO
Full Access Member
You posted a pic of the inside on the last page?? What ya smokin, cause i want in on it..
G.W BUFFALO
Full Access Member
Ya it is, but it's well worth it in lack of misery alone.. Plus you'd never deal with crappy, bad fitting, o-ring cutting caps again..
Optikalillushun
Registered User
Post #34 GW...
G.W BUFFALO
Full Access Member
Yep thats it
G.W BUFFALO
Full Access Member
Optikalillushun
Registered User
Everyone got two new o-rings plus a third on top. Seems to have did the job, we'll see tomorrow when i give it a cold start.
Someone asked for measurements inside the cap...
this was a cap with two bar ends on it.
bard end to barb end:
botton - .644
top - .638
non barb end:
bottom - .639
top - .638
Someone asked for measurements inside the cap...
this was a cap with two bar ends on it.
bard end to barb end:
botton - .644
top - .638
non barb end:
bottom - .639
top - .638
I don't know what the actual durometer of the viton rings you guys are using, but generally they run around a durometer of 75, and the buna-n are around a 70. That's not much, but it does indicate the buna-n is a softer more forgiving material. If you are not going to run a odd-ball exotic fuel in your engine, you might want to stick with the original buna-n o-rings and see if they conform better to the aftermarket plastic caps.
G.W BUFFALO
Full Access Member
Did you stick a pan under the ip to see if she's a leaker?? I'm gonna do it to mine in the am after work, after reading up im betting she's a leaker...
Optikalillushun
Registered User
Nope, forgot to as dinner was done and i was starvin. I did take a look with an inspection mirror and flashlight, its all full of crud and looks wet all on the bottom. Plus my valley pan is black with crud and smells like fuel...but its been that way since i bought it. Not to terribly worried ATM, as long as it starts quicker than before i am moving on with nesseccary repairs/projects.
As long as i get through the winter with it, i will be happy. Spring time will be my deciding time if it goes, fix it up, or just drive it till it dies a rusty death. Rad support is shot, inside the cab is rotting, wheel wells are goin, inner wheel wells have holes in em, rear part of the frame (from the cab back) doesnt look the best...
As long as i get through the winter with it, i will be happy. Spring time will be my deciding time if it goes, fix it up, or just drive it till it dies a rusty death. Rad support is shot, inside the cab is rotting, wheel wells are goin, inner wheel wells have holes in em, rear part of the frame (from the cab back) doesnt look the best...
G.W BUFFALO
Full Access Member
Ya my valley pan is a wet greasy mess aswell.. Hard to tell if the pumps leaking thou untill i do the paper towel test.. Pump only has about 30k on it, but it was abused and sat for years not being ran...
Optikalillushun
Registered User
My pump was put on @ a Ford dealers heavy diesel truck serivce place a few months before i bought it. Pump was bought from a half assed parts store in town. So its not to old (4 1/2 years) and maybe 30,000 miles as well.
G.W BUFFALO
Full Access Member
You get your's starting good yet, hav'nt updated lately and i'm just wondering?? I finally cracked mine, now it start's on the first crank.. It was all them dam returns, and valve on the filter head. Now no air and plenty of heat thanks to everthing in the gp system being new, It just kick's rite over
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