Removing Torque Convertor from 89 F250 7.3

Old Goat

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2021
Posts
1,582
Reaction score
1,571
Location
Northern Nevada
You must be registered for see images attach

Here is the truck in question from my other thread about the Disk Brakes etc...

I know you have to remove the 4 Bolts that hold the Torque Convertor to the Fly Wheel to pull the engine.
I was working on removing them a few days ago, Removed the lower cover plate, and can see one on the driver side come into view. How ever the Exhaust pipe is in the way to get any leverage on the bolt.
I did remove the manifold Bolts and drop the Y pipe. By the time I got it off, it close to 5pm and they wanted us out of the yard.

I did read removing the Starter, then the bolts are easy to get to.

Is it possible to leave the TC on the engine, and pull the Transmission off?
Or is there somthing keeping it with the Transmission? Like a tab to keep it
held into the Bell Housing while lining it up to the engine so it doesn not fall out?

My thoughts are to place a Jack under the engine to hold it level.
( found a large sissor type jack in one of the vehicles)
Saws-All the transmission Tail Shaft X mount on both sides next to the Frame.
Unbolt the TS as it goes with the Gear Vendor I removed.
Lower the Engine to tilt the Transmission to make easy access to the BH Bolts.
Then pull the transmission off and let it fall to the ground.

Jack up the Engine back to level. Then Friday when they have the 25% sale, Saws-all the front end sheet metal etc... and jerk out the Engine.

Sounds like it is doo able? Or what am I missing?

I know there is something I forgot....HMMMM


Goat
 
Last edited:

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,237
Reaction score
10,925
Location
edmond, ks
From my experience, it's easier (slightly) to pull the engine with the torque convertor attached that it is to leave it on the engine and remove the transmission. I would recommend removing the starter. It will make it easier to get to the convertor nuts and you'll want to remove it in order to pull the engine. Also, these nuts like to be stubborn and make you turn the flexplate instead of breaking loose (by hand. Your Dewalt impact should make a huge difference). By putting your socket/extension into the starter mounting hole in the adapter plate, the flexplate will spin until the tool/***** the side of that hole and then the nut will come loose. Although it isn't the easiest thing to do, these engines aren't terribly difficult to turn over by hand so you can get to all four of the nuts.
There isn't any tabs or anything else holding the torque convertor into the transmission other than friction. The snout on the convertor actually extends a fair way into the transmission (front pump) and you would have to try to get it to fall out. Actually, unless the front of the trans is tipped down at a pretty steep angle, you'd have to help the convertor fall out onto the ground.
 

Big Bart

Tow&Slow
Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Posts
1,481
Reaction score
950
Location
Newport Beach, CA
Bring a couple large screw drivers and a couple large pry bars. You will find them helpful at turning the flex plate by leveraging what you can and using the tips to turn the teeth on the flex plate. Then you can line up the bolts with the starter hole or at 6pm at the bottom with the dust cover removed.

As IDIBronco states the torque converter may hang up a little if you leave it on. We have had to do this on frozen engines multiple times. But some giggling and some careful prybaring (Don’t crack the tranny case, more of a fill the gap and wiggle, than jam in and pry.) you can sperate. Take your time it’s not a race, just keep pulling and wiggling.

Another thought, try to toss the lot guys $20-30 bucks to lift the engine and tranny out with a forklift or loader. Focus on cutting the exhaust, fuel lines, electrical, tranny cooler lines, pull the radiator, and cut out the center support. The chain up to some intake bolts or brackets and let them lift out the engine and tranny. Have them drop into your pickup. You can separate the engine and tranny at home.

Bring a old tire off the rim or ask for one at the junk yard. Put the engine on top with the deep part of the pan placed in the middle of the tire. Helps keep the engine upright and minimizes damage. If the radiator is brass and decent I would take that too! If the coolant recovery tank is not cracked like most grab it as well.

Good luck!
 

Old Goat

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2021
Posts
1,582
Reaction score
1,571
Location
Northern Nevada
IDIBRONCO thanks for the info. The Starter is coming off.
Yeah that New DeWalt gun, ;Sweet a couple BRRRRP .....BRRRRP and those nuts will spin right off.

Big Bart...I have access to the front crank Bolt to rotate the Engine to line up the TC bolts.
I first tied to move the FW with a big Screw Driver and a Pry Bar. Not a lot to pry against, but could move it one tooth at a time.

Iam not too worried about the Tranny as it is not going home with me.
I already unbolted the Exhaust Y Pipe from the manifolds, and cut it off back by where it is bolted together. It`s out of the way.

This is pick N Pull, you pick it, you pull it.
They don`t do any helping. Some yards have guys hanging around to pull parts....for the lazy people...LOL.

There are 2 lifting brackets bolted to the top of the engine. I`ll probably ring my Engine tilter and attach it to the hook on the Chain Fall.
PNP have these Gantry Crains for us to use to pull the engines. I have pulled a few from these yards. Mostly MB Diesels, this is my first Ford IDI Engine.

The Radiator....it`s pretty mangled from the looks of the picture. It`s days of holding Coolant are over.

Bart, this truck had a Gear Vendor over drive tranny which I pulled. The DL has been removed, I kept the front section. PNP bent the rear all to heck moving the truck around with their Fork Lifts as they usually do to most of the vehicles in the yards. I also grabbed the Diff Yoke. The one on my 86 is loose and has been banging around for a while.
I figure the Pinion shaft is probably harder steel than the yoke, and the yoke splines are probably worn pretty good.
I had one on a Mercedes 4-spd, that the splines were worn to a point, instead of the flat sloped sides and flat top. replaced it with a good used one, and all has been good.

I have an old tire I use when dragging engines home.
I drag home the recovery Tanks when I see them, one had a crack I didn`t notice till after I got it home. :cry:

Battery Trays are another good thing to grab if good. I just had 6 Sand Blasted and POR`d.

OH, what is the Starter Bolts? 9/16"?
And the Torque Converter Bolts size?....

Goat
 

IDIBRONCO

IDIBRONCO
Joined
Feb 5, 2010
Posts
12,237
Reaction score
10,925
Location
edmond, ks
The convertor nuts are 9/16". Also, you can never tell when someone might have replaced one of the original style starter bolts with a standard 3/8" bolt with a 9/16" head.
 

Old Goat

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2021
Posts
1,582
Reaction score
1,571
Location
Northern Nevada
1/2' Starter Bolts = 3
9/16' Torque Convertor Nuts = 4
19mm Bell housing Bolts = 7
19mm Tail Shaft Mount bolted to tail Shaft = 2
Forget the size of the 2 that bolt the mount to
the Trans X Mount.

19mm Linkage Bracket on Pass side of transmission = 2 bolts.

I first removed the Starter. That top bolt was easier to get to than when i did my truck a few years back. Don`t know what brand starter this one had, but with a Flash light I could almost see the edge of the bolt.
Put together some 1/4" extensions that were just past the Starter. got the Socket on the bolt, then put the Ratchet on, and the bolt came right out.
Then the 2 bottom ones.

With the Starter removed I thought what I read above the Torque Convertor Nuts would be easy to get to. I envisioned them with in the Starter hole. But actually with the Lower eng/trans cover off there is one just past the Starter Hole.

Iam using one of these HF 1/4 X 3/8" Ratchets.

Has a thin head and a long handle for leverage. Cranking on it, the engine will turn til it hits the compression stroke and then the nut will loosen,
but you will be over on the drivers side.
Just have to go through this 4 times. Will have to use a Pry Bar in the FW teeth to bar the engine over.

I found a sissor jack last week that I stashed. Threw a Donut Spare tire under the engine, then placed a 2x6 across the rim for a base. Raised the jack up to the pan, then placed a 2x4 in the jack. Put some pressure on it to hold the engine.

Next was to remove the transmission X mount.
Used the Sawz-All and cut it off on both sides close to the frame. Will have to raise Jack a couple time as the trans comes down, it pinches the saw cut.
Then beat it with a hammer till it drops down.

Then remove the Bolts for the Tail Shaft.
Lower jack down to expose the bell Housing Bolts.
You will have to saw the hyd lines, cut off the Dip Stick Tube and a few other things.

That new 1/2" DeWalt gun sure did the trick on the BH Bolts.

Tomorrow, (Thursday) going to cut through the damaged sheet metal, to get ready for the 25% sale on Friday. My BIL is going to give me a hand, that yard is on a slight hill, and pushing those Gantry Crains are a P I T A to push, they seem to have a mind of their own.
The Pick Ups are at the top of the hill.

Once I get it ready for the pull, I`ll stand guard and protect at all costs...get away from my engine... :backoff


Goat.
 
Last edited:

Old Goat

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2021
Posts
1,582
Reaction score
1,571
Location
Northern Nevada
Last Thursday I cut all the front end sheet metal off, dang that Sawz-All makes quick work of things. Used 4 blades and
Used up one 4ah Battery.
Cut through the Core Support on both sides, cut off the mount Bolts, Rad hoses, Ac lines etc... and wiggle the Core and Radiator, and it will flop out on the ground.
As mangled as the Hood was, I was surprised at how easy it was to get it off.

Friday My BIL helped me. That Gantry Crain is sure a heavy sucker with two old farts pushing it up that long hill. had to stop 1/2 dozen times.
Got it lined up with the truck, connected the Engine Tilter and lifted a bit.
Wiggled the transmission, and it should have fallen out.
I shook that dang thing and seemed it was in a bind, one side had separated and not the other.
There was one bolt I over looked that had a fuel line covering it. :Q
Make sure the throttle cable is is disconnected from the peddle, and a ground strap on the pass side that is screwed to the Fire Wall. 5/6" Socket.

Once the weight is on the A Frame, we noticed 2 tires are low. probably took us 20 min to get it to roll, straighten out the wheels and get it out to the road.
It took the two of us to hold it from getting away from us going down the hill walking backwards.

The engine with no accessories was:
$243.74
$049.99 core
$023.79 enviro fee
$024.13 tax
$341.65 total.

So thanks for the help with info getting this out.
Now I are a expert. ;Really

Need an engine/trans pulled? I`ll be over with my Sawz-All.....LOL

Goat
 

Old Goat

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2021
Posts
1,582
Reaction score
1,571
Location
Northern Nevada
One thing I forgot to mention. Someone bought the Air Cleaner assy. We had a day and half of steady lite rain.
You guessed it, with the mangled hood and compromised Hood seal, water went right down the intake.
With a Socket at the crank pulley the engine wouldn`t turn.

removed the Gp`s, rotated the engine and water really squirted out. GP`s are AC Delco, and came right out.

Got her home and squirted Marvel mystery oil in the holes.
The $ Store meat syringe works good to get it into the GP holes.
Filled ea one with a full syringe, slowly rotated the engine and let it soak. Then next day gave it another shot,
took about 3/4 of the bottle.
This afternoon I`ll lift it out of the truck with the Loader, be interesting how much water is in the pan when I pop the plug.

Turning the engine over, I thought this thing must have some good compression even the the plugs out. took a little effort to turn. Then noticed the FW Teeth were digging into the tire it`s sitting on.


Goat
 

Big Bart

Tow&Slow
Joined
Dec 22, 2020
Posts
1,481
Reaction score
950
Location
Newport Beach, CA
Last Thursday I cut all the front end sheet metal off, dang that Sawz-All makes quick work of things. Used 4 blades and
Used up one 4ah Battery.
Cut through the Core Support on both sides, cut off the mount Bolts, Rad hoses, Ac lines etc... and wiggle the Core and Radiator, and it will flop out on the ground.
As mangled as the Hood was, I was surprised at how easy it was to get it off.

Friday My BIL helped me. That Gantry Crain is sure a heavy sucker with two old farts pushing it up that long hill. had to stop 1/2 dozen times.
Got it lined up with the truck, connected the Engine Tilter and lifted a bit.
Wiggled the transmission, and it should have fallen out.
I shook that dang thing and seemed it was in a bind, one side had separated and not the other.
There was one bolt I over looked that had a fuel line covering it. :Q
Make sure the throttle cable is is disconnected from the peddle, and a ground strap on the pass side that is screwed to the Fire Wall. 5/6" Socket.

Once the weight is on the A Frame, we noticed 2 tires are low. probably took us 20 min to get it to roll, straighten out the wheels and get it out to the road.
It took the two of us to hold it from getting away from us going down the hill walking backwards.

The engine with no accessories was:
$243.74
$049.99 core
$023.79 enviro fee
$024.13 tax
$341.65 total.

So thanks for the help with info getting this out.
Now I are a expert. ;Really

Need an engine/trans pulled? I`ll be over with my Sawz-All.....LOL

Goat
That is a great deal if the engine is in decent shape.
 

Old Goat

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 14, 2021
Posts
1,582
Reaction score
1,571
Location
Northern Nevada
Wow! Been a year ago I pulled this engine, and now PNP is having another 25% sale. And there is a 93 F-250 7.3 in the yard. Been picked over pretty good since Sept. Took a look at it about 3 weeks ago just to take a look see, didn`t have any tools with me.

It`s tugging at me to go up there today to see if the engine will turn over. If so thinking just for the parts, Heads, Oil Cooler etc....
IP is gone, Air Cleaner, AC Pump etc... but at least we haven`t had any rain this year, just cold this year, 30`s and below in the mornings.

The 89 engine is still sitting in the shop I pulled last year. But the Marvel Oil did the trick to keep it from rusting from the water from the rains that got into it.

I have a 87 6.9 I picked up for a forum member over on FTE that`s a old/young guy like me...LOL had the HG go. Eng has 149K miles, bought it with Turbo, F/W etc... for $250. he was going to fix it but stumbled on a low mileage 7.3 Turbo and threw it in. Talked to him a while back and said it runs great.

Was thinking of taking one of these engines up to Justin to do is magic on it. I need a road trip...only 1200 mi one way.

The 86 DD has this thump...thump I can hear when idling, just turned 330K miles, but runs pretty good and still gives me 20 MPG + /-.
Has the same Pump and Injectors it had when we bought it with 192K.
Have new Pump/Inj. from Justin I bought a good 3+ years ago, just procrastinated putting them in.
When I get on it she will smoke pretty good, so I know it`s time to replace stuff.

So now onto PNP, Yep I think you guys talked me into it, Iam heading up there.

Goat
 
Top