remoting oil filter/ oil drainback port?

[pybyr]

I probably want to put a centrifuge bypass oil filter on my 89 7.3, to keep the oil cleaned out of all the fine particles, and then, while I am at it, I have a 6" Oberg screen filter that I could plumb on in place of the spin-on (I would not trust the Oberg to be catching all of the smallest particles, but the centrifuge will do that). That plus synthetic oil ought to keep my engine very clean while allowing extended oil changes.

Anyone know if there are any ports low down on the 7.3's block that could be used for the centrifuge's gravity oil return to the pan (which needs to flow pretty freely so that the oil does not back up and bog down the centrifuge)? I was originally thinking of mounting the CF on the valve cover or the injection pump drive cover, but am now thinking that a separate bracket may make more sense if I can route a drain down low.

And can anyone tell me what the diameter/ thread pitch is for the oil filter's center thread, and the diameter of the rubber sealing ring, so that I can begin looking for a remote hose adapter for the Oberg (I know that I should add a check valve to prevent drainback, too.

Thanks!

 

[RLDSL]

There are no open ports down low to drain back into. If you had the pan off, you could drill it and get a weld up bung with an AN type fitting to hook an aeroquip hose up to and braze it onto the pan, but not real easy to do with the pan on. You can get a self tapping hollow bolt from Amsoil that will thread into the pan for a return. I've never used one in all these years, I just dont like the concept much, although I've never heard of a failure. If you can the the filter above the engine ., you can get an oil filler cap from amsoil with a fitting in it for a return, or take the plate of from the injection pump bolt inspection cover and braze a fitting onto that for a return ( I say braze on those weld up fittings because if you try to electric weld them, you wind up with pinholes, brazing gives a leak free joint )

 

[typ4]

That is the reason for using the powerstroke oil filter, it is available with a finer filter media IIRC. I dont think the Oberg is fine enough for a daily driver, at least not the ones I have seen.

 

[pybyr]

That is the reason for using the powerstroke oil filter, it is available with a finer filter media IIRC. I dont think the Oberg is fine enough for a daily driver, at least not the ones I have seen.

If I go ahead with this (need to save up for the centrifuge bypass filter first), then the centrifuge will be set up as a bypass filter, and by its nature and that configuration, will get all of the small particles, down to sizes smaller than any spin-on.
http://www.dieselproducts.com/spinclean/spinclean_efficient.html
The Oberg's role would solely be to catch any sudden big particles that the bypass/ centrifuge system might not get to immediately (since bypass systems clean more gradually during the course of engine circulation).

 

[RLDSL]

I have to fully agree with type 4 on this one. I've been using and selling synthetic oils for over 25 years and I've seen all kinds of systems come and go. , but the setup you're putting together, you might as well have an open hose. I'm sorry to burst your bubble, but those obergs are a neat toy for racers who don't care if they have to tear the engine down after the race, they just want the slick stuff to go through fast for a short period of time and have something to stop the large chunks of rod that are getting knocked off by the overflexed crank running past redline. For that, the obergs are an excellent tool of choice Regular filters are way too restrictive for that environment.

As for the centerfuge, those things, have many times where not every particle gets caught , oh, they don't tell you that do they, that's right, they're trying to selll you the thing, With no filter being forced through It's only a matter of happenstance that some particles get caught on each pass, the rest go right on by and run through the system again, and maybe get caught on the next pass, maybe not, eventually they will get caught,, but by then you will have plenty more soot and varnish for the thing to be dealing with. It's a never ending battle.

So what you are putting together there is a mutually incompatible filtration system
One or the other or both needs to go For one thing their claims about regular bypass filtration is a crock Most bypass filters, filter to 2 microns or less, that's Amsiol ( 98.7% efficient @2 micron and will remove particles less than 1 micron ), Lubrifiner and a number of others are also rated at 2 micron Lubrifiner to give credit where credit is due has probably done more work in bypass filtration with diesels than anyone. For decades all of our OTR trucks had those big lubrifiner bypass cartridge filters mounted on the frame or under the step allowing them to go 15-20k miles on oil that was only rated for 1500 miles by the API for diesel. Anything below 2 micron isn't going to damage squat.

You either need to stick with a stock full flow filter ( the PSD filter is better and fits ) and have your centerfuge so you will at least be getting regular filtration on a steady basis, or get your Oberg fix and ditch the centerfuge and get a real bypass filter from Amsoil, Lubrifiner, Heck, Get a Franz, anything but that centerfuge. You need to have something in your system that is doing the job full time. Having two part timers is a recipe for disaster.

If you want an all in one soloution that will take care of the problem, I will help you out ., but do something to match it up correctly