Red Line synthetics...good stuff?

Diesel JD

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I read their site today, it looked like they had the synthetics I needed for my differential and perhaps the 15W40 stuff is what I want for the engine as well. Anyone have good or bad experience with their stuff? Thanks,
JD
 

RLDSL

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Haven't looked at their products recently, but traditionally their products have been supurb racing lubricants, which is their primary market. In general, they haven't always designed them for extended mileage use, so drain intervals are shorter than some other synthetics, but high speed, high load performance and protection during the life cycle is great.
 

Diesel JD

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I might have to think twice about that...maybe I should just stick with the rotella dino oil....but I really would like to try synthetic. Webshots wouldn't let me see your blackstone report, but it sounds like something was amiss with that product. Travis saw a drastic wear reduction when he switched from rotella to Amsoil in the Enterprise, not a spike!! Maybe it should be redline in the transmission and diff and Amsoil or Rotella synthetic or synthetic blend.
 

FordGuy100

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Haven't looked at their products recently, but traditionally their products have been supurb racing lubricants, which is their primary market. In general, they haven't always designed them for extended mileage use, so drain intervals are shorter than some other synthetics, but high speed, high load performance and protection during the life cycle is great.

LOL Man, you are a horrible salesman, you need to be pitching your product :D

Your post should have read something along these lines:

Havent looked at their products recently, but traditionally their products have been horrible, just plain horrible. In general, they dont last long, dont lubricate well, and are way overpriced. Drain intervals are about as short as regular dino oil, and they are about as good as dino oil as well. Under high stress, the parts with the oil in them usually fail, caused by bad lubrication and breakdown of oil at a low temperature. All in all a terrible oil.

:rotflmao :rotflmao :rotflmao See, thats how it should have been written ;Sweet

















Disclaimer: All that is said above is total B.S. and was ment as an amusement. Their oil is probably pretty good ;Sweet
 

RLDSL

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LOL Man, you are a horrible salesman, you need to be pitching your product :D

Your post should have read something along these lines:

Havent looked at their products recently, but traditionally their products have been horrible, just plain horrible. In general, they dont last long, dont lubricate well, and are way overpriced. Drain intervals are about as short as regular dino oil, and they are about as good as dino oil as well. Under high stress, the parts with the oil in them usually fail, caused by bad lubrication and breakdown of oil at a low temperature. All in all a terrible oil.

:rotflmao :rotflmao :rotflmao See, thats how it should have been written ;Sweet



Disclaimer: All that is said above is total B.S. and was ment as an amusement. Their oil is probably pretty good ;Sweet

:rotflmao :rotflmao :rotflmao

Cmon now, Just because I've been selling Amsoil for over 25 years doesn't mean I have to be pidgeonholing everyone with it and annoying the crap out of them. Got to give credit where credit's due. Some folks are just looking for something different for some reason or another.
 

Diesel JD

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Its an objective fact that amsoil recommends longer oil change intervals than redline. The motor oil around a 15,000 mile interval or more with severe service versus 10,000 or so with the redline. Either one would be longer than my dino 2500-3500 miles.
 

hheynow

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If you read through the posts on my link, wisdom says that my spike was from the Redline cleaning out the nooks and crannies and what was dislodged into solution was what skewed my UOA. I really should have done a few consecutive oil changes with Redline to give it a chance but at about $8 per quart :eek: it was not gonna happen after that UOA. The lead rose from 3 to 20 ppm and the copper rose from 1 to 7 ppm.
 

Exekiel69

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If you read through the posts on my link, wisdom says that my spike was from the Redline cleaning out the nooks and crannies and what was dislodged into solution was what skewed my UOA. I really should have done a few consecutive oil changes with Redline to give it a chance but at about $8 per quart :eek: it was not gonna happen after that UOA. The lead rose from 3 to 20 ppm and the copper rose from 1 to 7 ppm.

You know that could be the case when I used amsoil and the amsoil bypass system, after 3k miles the result came back to Me with a huge increase in lead and other stuff i don't remember so I went back to regular motorcraft diesel oil and the results gradually went back to normal :dunno
 

riotwarrior

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I use their high temp ATF in my tranny and transfer case and their 75W90 in my diffs. Redline makes the top of the line synthetic oils IMO. ;Sweet I had a bad UOA (used oil analysis) with their 15W40 so I never used it again. UOAs got better after going back to Delo 15W40.


You know that could be the case when I used amsoil and the amsoil bypass system, after 3k miles the result came back to Me with a huge increase in lead and other stuff i don't remember so I went back to regular motorcraft diesel oil and the results gradually went back to normal :dunno

Well for what it's worth I suspect solvent action of the oil kind of like when you switch to Bio Diesel. :rolleyes:

There is a reason one is supposed to flush with Amsoil motor flush prior to switching to the synthetic lube. Now I wonder if that Sea Foam or what ever that other product thats talked about on this site frequently would help prior to switching to a synthetic oil.

Just because you see a spike does not a bad report make...think about the stuff the other oil is not holding in suspension and is coking up inside the engine in nooks and crannies.....As previously stated....one person should have run more but it was cost prohibitive....in that case why start something if your not able to complete it or carry on.

JM2CW
 
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