Rear ends

[pelky350]

Main reason i want limited Ian because on gravel log roads it's a one tire dryer needing 4x4 on a gentle incline lol so sounds like I should be able to get this attached easily I have friends that's work at advanced auto so I can use their computers to search what I want and take parts to test fit and use dial caliper to measure stuff! Axle came from a auto 250 2x4 93 truck it's being pulled for me today I believe

 

[nj_m715]

if you want traction consider a detroit or similar. I paid about 500 or 600$ for mine and installed it with a harbor frieght mag mounted dial mic. I didn't screw with the pinion, i just set the lash. it was quick and easy. there's videos on yourtube to help.
factory posi's were never great and anything used is probably worn out.

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Detriots are awesome unless you do a lot of driving on the pavement. the constant lock doesn't play well with. An ARB Air Locker is another option. You can lock and unlock at will. They aren't as heavy duty as a Detroit, but I wouldn't hesitate to use one.

 

[pelky350]

I just wanted to choose the limited slip since it was my pick pf any axle in the yard, plus this one looked to Ben on the most well take my care of truck there and was cleaner looking. Not looking for it to Be a super crazy locking axle but having both tires move in some gravel inclines would be nice lol

 

[u2slow]

Detriots are awesome unless you do a lot of driving on the pavement. the constant lock doesn't play well with. An ARB Air Locker is another option. You can lock and unlock at will. They aren't as heavy duty as a Detroit, but I wouldn't hesitate to use one.

Detroit, Lockright, etc are fine on pavement with a manual trans. They lock/unlock at will with the skinny pedal. With an auto trans they stay locked 98% of the time because the input torque never lets up... and gets annoying.

 

[laserjock]

While not an expert on this, I think there are other differences. For example I have two sterling rears one from an 87 F250 4x4 and one from 89 F350 4x4 and they require different U-joints. Maybe it's just different yokes? Not sure about drive shaft interchangeability (if the yokes were swapped). The brake drums are also different. Factory aluminum rear covers are interchangeable.

I’ll explain this one and apologize if the answer is below. Ford originally used all 1330 joints in the rear shafts and at the axle it was retained by standard u-bolt clamps. They started having failure problems with the u bolt clamps so in 88-89 time frame the switches to a ******* joint in the rear. It’s still a 1330 joint but it has 1.25” caps instead of the 1.0625 caps on a standard 1330. They just made the walls thicker to fend off cap failures. Later on (I think 91 was the first year) the switches to the strap style clamps and back to 1330 straight joint (I think). This is why when you go to the parts store, you’ve got to have either good measurements or the old part with you because you never know what you might have.

Another example, when I bought the replacement shaft for my truck, I decided to use my slip yoke because it was in a little better shape. Come to find out (I hadn’t laid them side by side) that my yoke took a 1410 cap (I think). The other one took a straight 1330. So my rear driveshaft has 1 conversion joint. 1 standard joint. 1 ******* ford spec joint (I used the rear diff out of my parts truck to match the gears in the front).

 

[u2slow]

It’s still a 1330 joint but it has 1.125” caps instead of the 1.0625 caps on a standard 1330....

Come to find out (I hadn’t laid them side by side) that my yoke took a 1410 cap (I think). The other one took a straight 1330.

1410 and 1350 caps are the same (1-3/16" OD)

 

[laserjock]

1410 and 1350 caps are the same (1-3/16" OD)

That would make sense but the other half was 1330. I don’t remember exactly. I just know I was surprised when the charged me for the conversion joint to balance it all as an assembly. Laid them beside each other and sure enough.

 

[BR3]

All said and done though a $7 harbor freight set of calipers will tell you everything you'll ever need to know on Wich u joints you need. There aren't any trade secret designs or setups that require anything more than an off the shelf joint, albeit maybe a second grab from an inexperienced salesman haha.

You just have to check what you've got more than once if your not confident before purchasing. You've gotta do the work to take things apart anyhow, may as well do it so that you can buy the parts once instead of twice

 

[IDIBRONCO]

Detroit, Lockright, etc are fine on pavement with a manual trans. They lock/unlock at will with the skinny pedal. With an auto trans they stay locked 98% of the time because the input torque never lets up... and gets annoying.

Thanks. I didn't know about the unlock with the manual trans.

(I think 91 was the first year)

The rear end that I used in my Bronco came out of a 1990 F250. It used the awful straps and bolts. I can only assume that it was the original rear end in the donor truck.

 

[pelky350]

Yeah not really looking for a locker was trying to save money by not having to tear into a rear end and time by buying a conversion joint or weird ended joint so everything just bolts in, the limited slip idea Is simply because I think it might end up with a little better chance of traction over a totally open diff and I got to pick any rear ended in the yard this one looked best. Sounds like I'm gonna have to borrow advanced autos caliper tool and measure the parts before I can figure out which one I need. I'm going to do it today gonna Be a slam it in there at the junk yard drive it home and do it properly after thing today

 

[BR3]

If I understand what you're saying you're going to try to install the axle on the premises of the junkyard?

If that is in fact the case I would urge you to reconsider. while it is 100% possible, it is ill advised unless you have a team of help and a pretty decent mobile tool outfit. Things always take longer and require more parts than you ever plan for. And it's pretty unsafe to drive with unbled brakes.

If that's not the case and you just mean you plan on loading it up and driving home that's a much better idea, so disregard the above

Sent from my Moto Z (2) using Tapatalk

 

[pelky350]

They have a full shop and i will have help there and a source of any extra parts needed basically my buddy recently bought the whole yard and it's obs and bricknose heaven lol I plan on bleeding brakes there and bolting everything up, the only thing I don't know for sure is u joints but I live like 3 blocks away I could get away with a sketchy u joint or justice pulling rear shaft. I don't have a lift at home and he says offering the shop and some assistance free to me basically as long as my truck moves from the shop after a axle of bolted to it I can do everything else

 

[IDIBRONCO]

They have a full shop and i will have help there and a source of any extra parts needed basically my buddy recently bought the whole yard and it's obs and bricknose heaven lol I plan on bleeding brakes there and bolting everything up, the only thing I don't know for sure is u joints but I live like 3 blocks away I could get away with a sketchy u joint or justice pulling rear shaft. I don't have a lift at home and he says offering the shop and some assistance free to me basically as long as my truck moves from the shop after a axle of bolted to it I can do everything else

MAN you are set then!

 

[pelky350]

Well after arguing with it for a while it's in there, so between the two swaps from 88-93 the 90 has larger wheel cylinder fittings so I had to make an adapter from my old stuff to the new axle because the one had a kink in it from them pulling it. U joint was correct from earlier post so that's was nice and everything else went correctly. It does two wheel burnouts in gravel now! Just gotta change fluid because who knows how old it is. what's recomended for the limited slip from a 93?