Radiator Questions

[MandolinMan]

Hey guys,

I posted a forum a few months back after my factory radiator blew on me. I ended up taking it to my local diesel mechanic who installed a copper/brass OEM radiator. It was fine for about a month, then it started leaking at the upper seal. Long story short, he shipped it back in for warranty work, and reinstalled it for me free of charge. Well, now about eight weeks later, I go to start my truck just to find the radiator leaking again.

Really not sure what the issue is. I've used the mechanic for years and know he's one for quality parts. Really starting to get annoyed dealing with the radiator for the third time in just a few months.

I'm thinking it's time to go over my entire cooling system and get it all straightened out once and for all.

Here's my questions:

My temperature gauge only half works... definitely time I install an aftermarket gauge. I know that many of you have gone the same route, if you guys wouldn't mind providing a link to the gauges you've had the best success with I'd appreciate it.

I don't believe my fan clutch it engaging. Excuse my ignorance, but is this a huge concern? What's the best route to go here?

I'm tempted to just say heck with the radiator's that my mechanic has been installing and order a high quality aftermarket radiator myself. I hear the Rodney Red radiators mentioned frequently. Any feedback here?

I apologize in advance because I know that many of these questions could probably be answered by digging through the archives. But working 70 + hrs. a week right now, I really don't have the time or mental clarity at the end of the day to go digging through.

Being new to the world of diesels and fairly ignorant of mechanics in general, I'm looking for a little advice. Thanks a ton.

 

[79jasper]

Go with the aftermarket. You'll be glad you did.
Does the current replacement have plastic tanks?

Sent from my SM-G900R4 using Tapatalk

 

[catodd]

I have been happy with my all aluminum radiator from Autozone, has been in my truck since 2009.

 

[riotwarrior]

If doing a thorough cooling system revamp, Might be an idea to gather some parts.

Oil cooler O rings and gaskets
2 petcocks for block drains
Thermostat and gasket
New OEM FORD clutch for fan,

Not sure how many miles on your rig but a NEW FORD water pump could be good idea...but that's your call

Radiator,
Rodney Red is about as good as it gets,

I'm quite pleased with my Champion 3 core rad I have from ebay.

Now good time for coolant filter too BTW

So you need to determine what you want to spend, in time and $$$ and make some informed decisions.

JM2CW

 

[chris142]

many of the all metal copper and brass radiators are coming out of china. very thin metal...nothing like the old ones were. also make sure that nobody is using an all makes all models coolant in one as the acid in that coolant ( organic acid technology. .oat coolant) will eat right through the solder

 

[icanfixall]

I run the Rodney Red and its a great radiator. 15 fins per inch of tube and 2 or 3 rows of tubes 1 1/4 inch wide. The brass oem radiators were 4 row 15 or 16 fins per inch. I think they had 54 tubes total. The new idea was to use a dimple core 3 row and it did not work. The dimples crimped into the tubes made the coolant flow down thru them slower.. Well it did not happen and just 3 rows can't keep the engines cool. Only the factory thermostat is what we can use. Others fit like the chinese made stats but they fall apart and ruin our cooling systems. The all aluminum Champion radiators are a good idea. Plenty of owners are using them and have no issues. The Rodney is around $650.00 plus shipping. The Champion is around $200.00 free shipping. The idea of replacing the water pump and oil cooler o rings is a great idea too. Best to run a good flush of the cooling system before you do this replacement. And please... Use nothing but steam distilled water. Its mineral free and non conductive so no electrolysis will happen to aluminim and cast iron when they touch each other.

 

[Rot Box]

Ditto what Riotwarrior said I'd recommend the dealer for the thermostat as well. I went through a similar battle with my 91. If I had the cash the Rodney would be my choice but on my budget I went with the Champion and haven't looked back. Well worth the money and then some. If you go this route I'd use the Ford (or other high quality) cap and replace the thread tape on the fittings with pipe sealant.

http://www.championradiators.com/ford-f-series-diesel-radiator-1983-1994

EDIT: I placed the order over the phone. Best--not even kidding--the best costumer service I think I've ever had. Renewed my hope for mankind.

 

[whiteboyslo]

Re: the fan clutch.....My experience is that they don't kick in until you're darn hot, temps which you shouldn't see unless you're towing/hauling a load up a grade. I have an Autometer digital gauge with the sensor installed in the 'OVERTEMP' sensor port (in the head), and I've seen temps into the 230s before the fan decides to kick in. Makes me nervous as heck, so much so that I actually replaced my clutch with another OEM unit. That didn't change anything, so it just seems like that's what they're designed to do. That being said, if I turn on the AC, the clutch kicks in a lot more at lower temps, so sometimes when I'm towing I'll deliberately leave the AC on just to get the fan to kick in (counter-intuitive, I know).

I'm also running the Champion radiator. Does OK. I can't comment to 'before' and 'after' temps since I didn't install the aftermarket gauge until after I installed the new radiator (and we all know how useless the stock gauge is). Like I said, the truck still gets a little hotter than I'd like when towing up a grade (and I'm only towing MAYBE 2500lbs), but I cannot attribute that to the radiator necessarily. I've replaced the thermostat (Motorcraft), which helped bring down the normal operating temps a good bit and seemed to help drop the max temps I was seeing, but still not as much as I'd like. I just turned down the fuel on the IP last weekend to see if that will help (EGTs were also a bit high), but it'll be a few months until I need to tow again and can check the results.

This is the gauge I have. Disregard the single negative review. IMHO, the brightness is perfectly fine: http://www.amazon.com/Auto-Meter-6337-Digital-Temperature/dp/B001E6GQGQ/ref=cm_cr_pr_product_top

Mike

 

[laserjock]

What pressure radiator cap are you running? There is a long debate about that as well. Switching to a lower pressure cap might be a band aid but it sounds like either you are getting crap radiators or maybe the system is over pressurizing causing the crap radiators to pop to me. My $0.02.

 

[riotwarrior]

One more thing to consider.....

Evan's waterless coolant...

Read $$$$$pendy

 

[Mulochico]

I was on a rotating repair/re-install with 2 soldered brass radiators for about 2 1/2 - 3 years. Couldn't keep the leaks from happening at the soldered joints. Bought a champion off of Ebay and have been perfectly happy the last 2 years. I just made sure it had a 13 lb cap. Haven't had a leak since the change. I think the newer replacement radiators aren't what they used to be.

 

[icanfixall]

Any oem fan clutch can be modified easily to lock up at a lower temp. Most will lock up around 230. Thats too high really. I want mine locked up at 200 or 210. The flat coil spring on the front of the clutch is what you "fix" by lengthening it. Take it off. Hest it to straighten out the bend where the RTV is and shorten it about 1/4 inch. The 1/4 inch may be wrong but I recall this was talked about some time back. I think typ4 aka Russ was explaining how its done. Then reinstall it and RTV it back in place. They can't come on too early. Thats just not possible. You can also lock it forever. Remove the spring and turn the needle shaft till it stops. Not the viscus fluid can't travel thru the ports locking it up. Don't know what way it turns but its one way or the other..

 

[TahoeTom]

I bought a lifetime warranty copper/brass radiator from Napa. It was made in China. The lifetime of the first three radiators was less than 2000 miles each. Towcat mentioned using a 7# cap to keep the soldered seams in the cap from leaking. So far radiator #4 has not leaked for almost 1 1/2 years.

 

[Blind Driver2]

Hey guys,

I posted a forum a few months back after my factory radiator blew on me. I ended up taking it to my local diesel mechanic who installed a copper/brass OEM radiator. It was fine for about a month, then it started leaking at the upper seal. Long story short, he shipped it back in for warranty work, and reinstalled it for me free of charge. Well, now about eight weeks later, I go to start my truck just to find the radiator leaking again.

Really not sure what the issue is. I've used the mechanic for years and know he's one for quality parts. Really starting to get annoyed dealing with the radiator for the third time in just a few months.

I'm thinking it's time to go over my entire cooling system and get it all straightened out once and for all.

Here's my questions:

My temperature gauge only half works... definitely time I install an aftermarket gauge. I know that many of you have gone the same route, if you guys wouldn't mind providing a link to the gauges you've had the best success with I'd appreciate it.

I don't believe my fan clutch it engaging. Excuse my ignorance, but is this a huge concern? What's the best route to go here?

I'm tempted to just say heck with the radiator's that my mechanic has been installing and order a high quality aftermarket radiator myself. I hear the Rodney Red radiators mentioned frequently. Any feedback here?

I apologize in advance because I know that many of these questions could probably be answered by digging through the archives. But working 70 + hrs. a week right now, I really don't have the time or mental clarity at the end of the day to go digging through.

Being new to the world of diesels and fairly ignorant of mechanics in general, I'm looking for a little advice. Thanks a ton.

Where in Indiana are you? I may be able to fix everything.

 

[MandolinMan]

Thanks guys for your responses.

I'm thinking that I'll just get the Rodney Red and be done with it. There seems to be a new problem every month anyway without dealing with the same problems again and again.

Blind Driver2--

I'm located about 45 Min. east of Indy.