Push Button GP Setup

jwalterus

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So what opens the injectors pressure wise if not fuel pump pressure? The injector pump itself when rotating? I guess i misunderstood how it works.

I made the important self-explaining word in your question stand out.
 

Cubey

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I made the important self-explaining word in your question stand out.

Yeah, I just edited thst post you quoted. I'm a bit of a thickie right now. I'm getting over a head cold, so my brain is having pretty bad misfire.
 

Thewespaul

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No worries, I’m hoping to get a chance to make a up tear down video around the holidays and I’ll go through and explain the inner workings of the db2 in regular lingo. There’s some videos out there but if you don’t know the terminology the guys are using it’s useless. Basically the injection pump takes the inlet pressure from your electric lift pump, bumps it up to transfer pressure, which supplies fuel to the plungers which brings it to the 2500 psi range.
 

rhkcommander

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you have two "fuel" pumps, the lift pump on the passenger side of the block which is low pressure (~5 psi +/- 5 psi), and the injection pump (IP) which cranks it up way past 1500 psi high pressure.

Fuel can't flow past the fuel pump when it is off - unless you literally can't turn the truck off because of the shutoff solenoid being stuck open. The IP only feeds one injector at a time too so even if you are lined out perfectly on one injector there are too many restrictions to that (the IP uses pistons). Leaky injectors don't matter either, I doubt the return line system could support filling a fully stuck open injector because the path of least restriction would still be the fuel tank in my mind.

Either way, it would take forever if it was a possibility - not the few minutes (exaggeration) or less it takes you to start the truck.



Back on the main topic:

Two of the best upgrades in my mind are push button glow-plugs, and push button STARTER. Using a pushbutton lets you use brands other than the motorcraft BERU plugs, the Bosch plugs warm up very quickly but will burnout if you go too long, the BERU are more durable since they don't heat as aggressively. Never had any swell, but I am again running BERU right now. I've heard decent things of Wellman, never actually tried them. Avoid autolites and champions like the plague. For me its either Beru or Bosch (very popular for the VW crowd but our stone-age controllers kill them so only use them for push button setups).

For the starter If any of you have had to replace the cast pig-iron actuator in the steering column then you know what I mean! It's also handy for cranking the engine over at any time.


Also FYI Anyone afraid of these being hot and press-able without the key just has to tap into the keyed-power wire - the red wire with a green stripe, instead of going for always hot.
 

JackC

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Injector requires about 1800 psi to open. Th i s pressure is created by the injection pump. If injection pump is not turning, no pressure being generated.
 

robw

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Been wondering that same thing if the wts comes on or not with a push button
mine does

BUT, I'm running a 12v + to the opposite of the white 8mm nut... seems to work, should i be concerned about something?
 

franklin2

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mine does

BUT, I'm running a 12v + to the opposite of the white 8mm nut... seems to work, should i be concerned about something?

If you are going to do this, I would take the small red wire off and tape it. Then put your constant hot on the terminal where the little red used to go.

I believe I am correct in saying the small red powers the brain to the controller. If this was on the battery all the time, though it may be very small, there would be a drain on the batteries all the time.

P.S. I suppose all you need to do is jump the yellow power wires over to the small red terminal with a small wire.
 

robw

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Franklin, I have 12v+ to the dash from the battery, which goes to the top right 8mm nut when straddling the engine momentarily.
 

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