Pulling hot side of turbo apart

dgr

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I was going to get some pipes ceramic coated for my hypermax turbo. Guy suggested we coat the hot side of the housing while we are doing it. How difficult is it to get it apart? Anything that screams danger?

Thank you
 

remington88

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Not that hard to get the turbine housing off. Just mark it so you remember where to clock it. Makes it easier to put back on the truck. Might have to smack it with a hammer a few times
 

WhiskeyBottle2

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Good morning...How new is your Hyper? If it is pretty new I would go ahead and coat it. The hot side is not difficult to do, just take some before and after pics...And, if you have the cash...why not go ahead and do the pipes?

Yeah, you shouldn't have any probs...
 

dgr

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It is old, old enough that the pedestal mount is fabricated and not cast. It came off a running parts truck and made good boost. I'm doing the pipes. I figure coating them is cheaper and easier than letting them rust further and having to buy and install new ones
 

MIDNIGHT RIDER

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My experiences with removing the exhaust-housing from a turbo-charger have never been a five-minute simple task.

It always involves holding the turbo by the pedestal in one hand while smacking the snail-part of the hot side with about a four-pound sledge-hammer; I have hit them pretty hard and have never had one to crack or break, although you will think that is a possibility.

After about a million smacks, you will imagine it moved; don't let that fool you, you are only about half-way there.

NEVER EVER attempt to hammer loose the housing of a mounted turbo; to do so will most surely damage studs, and buggar-up the mating surfaces, not to mention the very real possibility of knocking off a chunk of casting.

Once it finally yields and comes apart, wire-wheel-brush all mating surfaces until they are pristine, then coat everything liberally with anti-sieze.

Most turbo housings are designed such that the clamp-bolts can be left somewhat loose and final clocking/fine-tuning can be done; then, once everything is aligned, tighten the clamps.

You will probably find that the impeller will spin much more freely after getting all the bits of rusted **** knocked loose.

After re-clocking the turbo on my engine, it now screams and spools lightning quick; whereas, before, it would build good boost, but nothing like it does now.
 
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WhiskeyBottle2

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Old Hyper

It is old, old enough that the pedestal mount is fabricated and not cast. It came off a running parts truck and made good boost. I'm doing the pipes. I figure coating them is cheaper and easier than letting them rust further and having to buy and install new ones

Now that we know your hyper is old...DO NOT...Repeat...DO NOT mess with it...you are asking for lots and lots of trouble. Once the hot side housing has been "hot" so many times...the molecular structure has been changed enough to make them a little brittle...If the housing was as thick as a brick so to speak that would be different...

I wouldn't chance it...I'd rather just start with all new turbo and have it coated before installing it...There is one thing you might consider tho...other guys can chime in on this...is to wrap the housing in a heat resistant blanket as best you can....

Good Luck...with whatever you decide to do...
 

'94IDITurbo7.3

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i did not take my exh housing off my turbo when i had Russ rebuild it but i did take the exhaust elbow off and it came right off. i wouldn't worry about it breaking, just don't go ape $hit on the thing. also watch out for hitting anything on the turbine blades.
 

riotwarrior

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Oh ***...

It's a crap shoot....you may be able to get it off....maybe you won't, tough call, your choice to make.

If you are in position to get another kit, I'd say chance it, before coating any other parts....if it breaks you need to replace it. If not..yer golden!


JM2CW

I'l be ripping into my 093 turbo shortly...taking off hot side and DP connection...since my good 093 got stolen and this POS was sent back to me....bad buyer-cuss:backoff effed me for my good parts!
 

RLDSL

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If you are going to try to get it apart, soak everything down with Kroil twice a day for about a week before tearing into it, you will thank me later.
When I rebuilt my turbo, I just cleaned up the housing best I could and used a spray coating, then header wrap on the hot side of everything. Contrary to all the nay sayers, the header wrap has not trapped any moisture inside and rusted the poo out of anything, considering that In in a high humidity area, this is good. I did it on mine mostly to protect surrounding wiring and hoses from extended heat exposure, but there are added benefits
 

WhiskeyBottle2

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Header Wrap

If you are going to try to get it apart, soak everything down with Kroil twice a day for about a week before tearing into it, you will thank me later.
When I rebuilt my turbo, I just cleaned up the housing best I could and used a spray coating, then header wrap on the hot side of everything. Contrary to all the nay sayers, the header wrap has not trapped any moisture inside and rusted the poo out of anything, considering that In in a high humidity area, this is good. I did it on mine mostly to protect surrounding wiring and hoses from extended heat exposure, but there are added benefits

Amen to the header wrap...I never had moisture probs with it...as a matter of fact...we wrapped all the hot sides on all the engines in the Navy...Small one...Large ones...it didn't matter...that was procedure and part of maintenace...
 

redneckaggie

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done several turbos and the biggest help was to leave the bolts finger tight and get to work with a mallet or a brass hammer, have had to use a torch on one.
 

RLDSL

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Amen to the header wrap...I never had moisture probs with it...as a matter of fact...we wrapped all the hot sides on all the engines in the Navy...Small one...Large ones...it didn't matter...that was procedure and part of maintenace...

You;d sure think that if there was ever a place where condensation would become an issue, THAT would be it.
 

WhiskeyBottle2

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Condensation

You;d sure think that if there was ever a place where condensation would become an issue, THAT would be it.

Can't get condensation when cool damp air can't penetrate the wrap...Provided it is good heat wrap and there are no loose spots or holes...
 
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