Problem brewing, or just cold as a witches you know what?

[Agnem]

I've noticed that on exceptionally cold mornings like today (10 degrees), that the ol' Moose Wagon doesn't much care for sleeping outside. Cranks OK (kind of winds up a little, as you would expect), starts surges and dies after a second or two. Did this twice in a row. On the third start, it surged a bit and kept running, and ran fine afterwards. I'd just attribute it to the brutality of the winter morning, but thought I'd run it past the experts here for comment. Seems like there is an air pocket in there, if my thinking is correct. Beats the heck out of me as to how those injectors can work with the oil that cold.

 

[timpsd02]

Funny you bring that up. I went through the same thing this morning. Checked my gpr and it powers up. What next

 

[trackspeeder]

It's the very cold oil. Most peple call it the "romps".

I changed to Rotella Synthetic 5-40. and never had that problem again.

 

[tonkadoctor]

It's the very cold oil. Most peple call it the "romps".

I changed to Rotella Synthetic 5-40. and never had that problem again.

+1 Made a huge difference in cold starts with my 7.3

Mel, Next time you start it cold, watch the oil pressure gauge and see if it's stalling before building oil pressure to refill the HPOP resevoir. Common problem on high mile trucks with worn oil pumps or front covers, hopefully this isn't the problem on yours. Bad injectors can cause this too if the poppet valves are worn and hitting the bottom of the solenoids.

I ain't no expert but took the school of hard knocks last Jan on my 2000 with a combination of a bad front cover, bad lube pump, 1 bad glow plug, 4 bad injectors and 2 questionable injectors..... No wonder the Ferd dealer couldn't get it to start, said it needed a new engine and sold it to me so cheap.

 

[Agnem]

I kinda figured it was just the cold. It's not really a problem at this point, so I'll watch it and see. The IDI doesn't like to start any better or worse. It's just COLD.

 

[geonc]

Mel, Tonka's ailments were definatley worse case on high mileage/poor maintained engines, but yours is neither so I would first check out the pins at the UVC connections.

These darkside engines are easely crippled by resistance in bad connections.

We have been seeing some low teens here as well......Ol' Girl REALLY likes to be plugged in at night!

here's a pic of mine that was showing similiar ailments .....you have a single plug per bank and the OBS has 2 but the results are the same!

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[tonkadoctor]

Many, many thanks for the help last year on that very tired 7.3 George.



I'm loving the new sic-o right now knock on wood. Fires right up with no complaints without being plugged in, in this single digit weather with below zero wind chills they're having up here in Elkhart, Indiana right now.

Hooking up to a fiver and doing a road test sucked this morning in 3 inches of fresh powder and still snowing and blowing this morning before the plows got out ........ sure glad I wore my Army Polypropylene long johns to work today

 

[geonc]

Many, many thanks for the help last year on that very tired 7.3 George.

Mike, I'm allways willing to donate a little blood Besides, meat grows back and bones heal

I'm loving the new sic-o right now knock on wood. Fires right up with no complaints without being plugged in, in this single digit weather with below zero wind chills they're having up here in Elkhart, Indiana right now.

Hooking up to a fiver and doing a road test sucked this morning in 3 inches of fresh powder and still snowing and blowing this morning before the plows got out ........ sure glad I wore my Army Polypropylene long johns to work today

Glad to hear all is good Mike! Stay frosty on those roads!

 

[Agnem]

Geo, good advice. Is that a connector that just fries because of it's design, or does it start with corrosion leading to a higher resistance and more heat? In other words, do I do more harm pulling it to check it, or leave it alone if it looks OK?

 

[FordGuy100]

It melts because from my understanding because the glow plug wiring is way under gauged, which leads to them overheating, and eventually it will melt this connector. Or at least I think thats what it is.

 

[geonc]

Geo, good advice. Is that a connector that just fries because of it's design, or does it start with corrosion leading to a higher resistance and more heat? In other words, do I do more harm pulling it to check it, or leave it alone if it looks OK?

Mel, while the design of the OBS is weaker than the new Super Duty's, eng vibration, oil mist etc...all are contributing factors.

A regular inspection that includes cleaning the external connections with contact cleaner and applying dilectric grease done yearly , will improve the chances of long service.

Removing the connection should not increase chance of failure....providing the damage is not done already!

Some have had luck catching the failure early enough that only external pin replacement is required.....I need to look thru my files to provide the part #'s unless someone else can help

sadly, the majority of burnt connections can only be revealed by removal of the rocker covers...chitty design

 

[geonc]

It melts because from my understanding because the glow plug wiring is way under gauged, which leads to them overheating, and eventually it will melt this connector. Or at least I think thats what it is.

In a properly working system, the wires will handle the load....like any other wire, resistance will destroy it!

Look at the IDI GP wires...exposed, broken down protective ends etc.....when working and cycling right are fine, however a poorly working syst, the worst thing they do is strain the cannon plug on the right fender, melting the two yellow power lead connections.....JUST like the PDS's...

'cept the IDI's are SOOOO much easier {and cheaper} to repair

 

[DRLIMO]

I am new to this forum. I would like to ask something of you all please. an experiment of sorts. I have worked on PSD for the past two years and have found something that I would like to test.will cost you nothing but a little diesel and a few minuites of your time. If you choose to participate in the study you will not be paid, other in a smooth running PSD. I want you to sit in your truck for 20 minutes, and exercise your injectors, your HPOP, your IPR, and your ICP. You can turn the radio up, sing along to your fav song, but try this out.

Start your truck cold, let the temp guage come up, and work the throttle of your truck. Rev it like a chainsaw or a weedeter, up and down up and down. I put a little Power Service in the tank but that is up to you. During use, the valves pistons and sensors on your truck move. They move slowly, responding to your pedal inputs. Work them out, polish the sludge off of them,heat them up a little. Up and down vary the RPM across the spectrum. accellerate from idle to governor 1500 to 2500 work that pedal out. I have been doing it to every PSD I have touched, and have yet to have an owner tell me that it didnt start better, idle smoother, and get better fuel mileage. I make no promises that this will fix your problem, but a little exercise never hurt anything. If you try this and it works for you, drop me a line and let me know. Have a good evening