powerstroke torque converter?

[built4tq1]

So here's the deal, i have 2 billet converters for the 4r100 trans (powerstroke) One single and one triple disc. Now i am aware of the bolt patterns being diffrent (4 for idi and 6 for powerstroke) However i was thinking of a little fabrication if you will, to adapt powerstroke converters on are flex plates and that's were your input would be appreciated I was thinking about getting a powerstroke flex plate and of course an idi one as well and mounting them on top of each-other and drilling the six holes into the idi plate for mounting purposes Sounds like it may work i would believe if one made sure everything was in line and accurate than balancing shouldn't be an issue. Now if my research is correct than these two converters do in fact share the same spline count and are the same (except for stud differences) so Just going out on a limb here with a mere suggestion. Has anyone heard of this? Does anyone make a 6 hole flex-plate for our idis? Don't know? tell me I'm half crazy or 100% Thanks guys

 

[Double-S-Diesel]

convertors are the same except for studs, just need to redrill the idi flex for the extras.
or im not shure, but do 4 of the 6 line up, maybe just take 2 off the convertor

 

[GenLightening]

but do 4 of the 6 line up, maybe just take 2 off the convertor

Nope, they're evenly spaced.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Someone who's no longer on this board used to run a PSD converter in his IDI truck, IIRC he did just what you suggest - redrill the IDI flexplate for the PSD converter. One thing to watch out for tho is the type of flexplate you have - for instance my '90 has a massive cast-iron flywheel the flexplate bolts up to (teeth for the starter to engage are machined into the flywheel), while newer IDIs have the more normal-looking thin flexplate with the starter ring gear welded to it and no flywheel. If you have the thin flexplate you can drill away, but if you have the flywheel setup then you'll have to drill the flywheel itself too cause otherwise there won't be space for the nuts that go on the converter studs (the flywheel has reliefs cut in it for the 4 studs on the factory converter).

 

[icanfixall]

Lcam... You have the early cast iron and thin stamped fly wheel srtup. Gaurd it closely because ford no longer makes any part of it. I have the last thin stamped flexplate that ford had in inventory so I got it. They were very expensive like $300.00 for the thin plate and right at $500.00 for the heavy cast iron wheel. That starter gear ring can be replaced easily. Either drill a few small holes thru the gear teeth and hit with a chisel & hammer or heat it up. The shrink fit them. Nappea sells the ring gear too. Most of the time all you really need to do is "clock" the gear around about 1/3 turn and you have new teeth for the starter. These motors start and stop on 3 locations on the crankshaft so only three places of the ring gear wear out. I colcked mine once. Then I needed the BTS stamped flexplate because the triple disc converter wouldn't fit my cast iron wheel. These gears can't be flipped over either because they have a cut on the starter side so the starter drive will glide in easier. Hope this helps others.... One more thing. Any heavy cast iron flywheel flexplate setup can easily be changed to the newer stamped flexplate. Just give Brian a call at BTS. He is the only guy I know of that makes the special crank spacer for the stamped flexplate setups as ford no longer makes them either... Anybody converting a E4OD to ZF5 speed will have this rare spacer too but usually no trans shop will have any of them. You would think a wrecking yard would be saving them too but none around my parts. Even a motor rebuilder might have had them stuck to the back of the cranks but nope.... When I needed one I could not find one.. Luckly I bought two from some great members here. I still have those teo. Spare parts are gold sometimes....

 

[built4tq1]

hmmmm some great ifno on my end. Perhaps as well as others. I will def do a lil more research on fly wheels and prob give bts a call. Speaking of bts what do you think of their e40d valve boddies? im lookin to do some type of shift kit at the time of the torque converter. any suggestions?

 

[icanfixall]

About the BTS shift bosies... I really can't say much because I have nothing to compare them too. Mt BTS complete tran replaced a Jaspers rebuild that had around 180,000 miles on it. Now I will say this about BTS... When that trans shifts you better be sitting hard in the seat because its going to be moving you down the road. Even Mel enjoyed the ride I gave him when I was test driving the newly installed Moose pump. We were at the 2009 rally and he felt the drag races that day would not be him against any BTS E4OD rigs.... He felt they just moved thru the gears way to fast and effortlessly... I know that feeling all the time.... I can easily just add some throttle and let the trans go thru what it does normally too. The shifts are positive and firm because of the tps being set at 1.25 volts. Usually we set it bwtween .96 and 1.2 volts. The higher the volts the firmer the shifts but only up to a point....

 

[built4tq1]

HUH never thought of "applying" voltage. However it makes for a perfected scenario well i def try the bts solution. i cant really seam to find any bad rep on the bts products. There are some who say they aren't as pleased as they had hoped but some people just aren't pleased without that slow slush-box shift feeling. I personally like crisp firm shifts. lets me know more of what my tranny's up to

 

[david85]

I guess I really did luck out when I broke my flex plate a while back and was able to pick one out of a stack of them at the wreckers.

 

[built4tq1]

The wreckers can either make your day or ruin your month. At least that's my experience down in vegas when it comes to idis. so i try and make it a point to pick stuff off of them when i see them needed or not. And running through the forums here really helps me learn of other things i should acquire.