Power window stuck down!

RSchanz

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Of course the window motor seems to have stopped working when the window is down instead of up... I’m pretty sure it’s not electrical because when I hit the switch I hear a click in the motor. I can’t muscle it up and prop it because of the gears. Any idea on how I can get it at least back up and locked there?

Also, I know these window motors are kind of hard to find. Does anyone have an extra they would be willing to sell me?

Thanks
 

gandalf

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I had to replace my driver's door window motor a while back. I found a new motor fairly easily, though I can't remember where. I think I posted about the replacement, so the location should be there in the post.
 

RSchanz

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Thank you, I will have a browse. I was under the impression that you needed to get one from a pick and pull.
 

Laine D

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I think a good one is about 100$. Both of mine stopped working within a day of eachother when I first got my truck lol.
 

gandalf

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I think I bought mine on EBay. As I recall it cost in the $30-$40 range, but don't quote me on that. The seller was: https://www.ebay.com/usr/alienbid

Hope this helps. I have no idea whether he is still around, or whether he has the window motors now.
 

RSchanz

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Was this your thread?
 

Selahdoor

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When mine was that way, I couldn't pull it up, either.

But I took the panel off the door, hooked the switch back up, and found that I could PUSH the window up, as I held the switch in the up position.

Left it that way, of course until I got my new motor. Got that from amazon. Regulator and all was less than 80 dollars at the time. Probably more now.
 

Big Bart

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Pull your door cover off and see if you have access to the motor and arm. You might be able to get it moving and coax it up. (Just watch your fingers.) Or pull the motor or part of it off so you can get the window up. Some duct tape from the front, over the door jam, to the inside of the window show hold it till you fix it.

I bought a set by Dorman as I recall at O’Rielly’s for around $90 with the motor and regulator. I would replace both due to the age of your truck. (Just be done with it for another 10+ years.)

The regulator arm pushes up or pulls down and slides on a track hooked to the bottom of the window. Clean that track and lube it real good with lithium grease.

There where pop rivets holding my regulator in place. I like to put things back as I found them, but it looked like some short bolts might of worked. (Ace hardware has little of everything.) I could not source pop rivets that big without ordering them, so used a slightly smaller diameter one and put a washer on the back side, so as the pop rivet tightened, it did not pull through the hole in the door. It pulled the washer up tight to the door. Everything tightened up really nice. It’s been about 18 months and still working good

Post some pics and let us know what you ended up doing.
 
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Trevtron

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NAPA has them in stock, drivers side motor only is part #6551507. The regulator with the motor is part#WLA2003.
Same motor- assembly is used from 80-96. You can also buy a rebuild kit for them in Rayloc.

Hope this helps
 

RSchanz

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I think when I bought the truck the motor was crapping out because the inside window seal wasn't on. I went ahead and fixed the seal since they were all cracked anyways and of course an outcome of this was the window sticking. Little did I know PO probably pulled it out because the motor was getting weak. I sprayed silicone lube all in the windows and it got going again. I figured this outcome was coming in the near future...

Thanks for sharing part numbers. I'll keep everyone posted on progress. Here are your first two photos hahah!

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RSchanz

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Installed the new motor today.

Used a 1/4 drill bit to get the rivets out and then used nylon nuts with washers and hex end bolts. It was a little hard to get the wrench in to hold the bolts when I tightened the nuts. I had to move the window up or down to access some of the spots. Decided to do this so that next time around it will be easier. I bought new weather stripping for the window from LMC and it fits way to tight. I'm sure thats what killed the motor and thats probably what will happen again. Spray silicone helps but just wears off after a couple days.

Last tip, make sure when you buy the new motor from NAPA they give you the correct side, even when you specify which one you're looking for LOL.

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Selahdoor

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Excellent! Same as I did. I used stainless. And I call those nuts, "Nylocks". I have friends who work at Boeing, and picked the nomenclature up from them.
 

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