Picked up my E99 zf6

Farmer Rock

just a fella' without a 10mm socket
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I had some time yesterday to rip the bed off and get the truck stuffed in the garage.
I pulled the rear doors to get started on all this lovely rust here....
After that, I'll drop the tranny and see what I want to do there when I replace the clutch fork. If everything goes as planned, I'll go through the zf6 I got from @catbird7 and put it in with a fresh clutch and hydraulics.
I'm really looking forward to having it shift correctly. It is a real pain right now.
I am seriously considering a pickup bed and single wheel swap after all that. That part is still up in the air though, a lot depends on my job situation and needs with the truck.

Rock
 

Farmer Rock

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Well....
Plans changed
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I the inner structure of the cab was way worse than I expected, so I'm gonna just swap cabs. And of course since that isn't enough work, I'm swapping on a crew cab to make it worth my while. If my measurements are correct, a 1 inch body lift will clear the frame rise ( cab and chassis).
All that's left is the HVAC stuff under the hood, then it's ready to come off.
I'm currently looking for a cab, so any leads would be appreciated as well. Thanks

Rock
 

greenskeeper

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Well....
Plans changed
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I the inner structure of the cab was way worse than I expected, so I'm gonna just swap cabs. And of course since that isn't enough work, I'm swapping on a crew cab to make it worth my while. If my measurements are correct, a 1 inch body lift will clear the frame rise ( cab and chassis).
All that's left is the HVAC stuff under the hood, then it's ready to come off.
I'm currently looking for a cab, so any leads would be appreciated as well. Thanks

Rock
crew cab with a blow gasser might be your best bet...as you have everything there to make the complete swap
 

catbird7

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Wow! Some of those photos bring back memories. Be prepared for wiring harness changes. It's also a great opportunity to double up on acoustic materials. My cab is remarkably quiet.
 

Farmer Rock

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Cab is ready to be picked off.
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Today was fun.....all of the stuff I left for last got done.
During all of this thinking time, it occurred to me, now I can actually see the engine under all that crap. Which leads to another idea.....
A tilt hood
I realize this won't be a walk in the park, but I plan on keeping this truck, and serviceability means a lot to me. You may notice I cut the inner fender/radiator support subframe out. The idea is to have close to the same access with the new cab.
The next idea.....
This one is just looking for trouble I know, but I would like to slim down on some of the wiring if possible. I'm thinking of using a t444e harness and pcm. Other option is slim down the factory harness which I'm not crazy about, but then I can keep the super duty modules........
(Deep breath)
...I miss my IDIs,lol
Wish me luck

I've got a lead on a crew cab, I may go pick it up this weekend if all goes well.

Rock
 

Cant Write

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...I miss my IDIs,lol
Just reminding you some more ;)

Did you get rid of all your IDI's that are listed in your signature?

I would happily get rid of my E4OD to have less wires. But then to work 3 pedals in the van footwell, I would probably have to be barefoot.
 

Farmer Rock

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Just reminding you some more ;)

Did you get rid of all your IDI's that are listed in your signature?

I would happily get rid of my E4OD to have less wires. But then to work 3 pedals in the van footwell, I would probably have to be barefoot.
Yes, wish I would've at least kept my 87 zf5 .
I'm kind of keeping an eye out for another as a backup truck.

Rock
 

catbird7

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Certainly an ambitious project! Not sure what condition your front sheet metal is however you might also consider a front clip swap? I've been kicking the idea around myself (minus the tilt feature). Since you already cut the side fender mounts and core support, you could likely buy a complete front clip that includes the inner structure which would allow you to avoid buying swap brackets. Those brackets alone are around $700 last I checked (McNasty). Up to 2016 Super duty front sheet metal can be used.
 

Cant Write

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I considered a front sheet metal swap for my van at one time; I would do it for functionality over looks. (better headlights)

But then I have read mixed reviews over how much better those headlights are.....So I will prolly end up going with added driving lights, and not the "blinding to other drivers type"

I did work with Daniel Stern to get the best factory lighting available for my van, with the best bulbs. I have all the parts, and yet to install them :oops:
 

Farmer Rock

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I picked up the donor truck last night
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Rust free rig, definitely didn't live an easy life, but the cab is solid. It's a 5.4 auto 2wd. It's got 99k miles on it, so I figure it's worth it for parting it out.
It made the 3hr drive home, so I can't complain.
That's the good news.....
Now, on the flip side, I got a little messed up this weekend, and will be a little set back now..
I crushed my hand and split it down the middle under a steel been, then got creamed in the head and knocked out....
So I have to get this stupid cast off before anything can get done. Definitely could have been worse. Be careful out there folks.


Rock
 

catbird7

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Nice score on the donor! Sorry to hear about your accident. Those things always seem to happen at the most inconvenient time.
 

Farmer Rock

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Nice score on the donor! Sorry to hear about your accident. Those things always seem to happen at the most inconvenient time.
Thanks, it worked out better than I expected with the donor. I was very happy to be able and drive it back since my dually is obviously under the knife right now.
The funny part is I have been daily driving the donor(automatic) since I only own manual vehicles ,and temporarily can't drive a manual with my hand the way it is,lol.

Rock
 

Farmer Rock

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Cab is off
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Now I can clean up the chassis and paint it.
My goal is to get the chassis painted before it freezes, so I can then work on pulling the donor cab

Rock
 

catbird7

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I've.used por15 on most all of my projects and have no complaints, other than price. Properly cleaning and prepping the metal makes all the difference regarding adhesion. I use wire wheel, grinder, and hand sanding in areas where the grinder or wheel can't reach. Then treat the surface with their acid prep. It's a tough finish and excellent corrosion resistance. As expensive as it is, they package it in cheaply made metal can that is difficult to effectively reseal once initially opened. Best trick I found for resealing the can, place several drops of motor oil in the lip, then place a plastic Walmart bag over the top and press the lid down normally. The oil will not allow the paint to adhere to the can lip and the bag acts as a gasket allowing the lid to be removed and replaced as often as necessary. At $60 bucks (or more) per quart you gotta protect it.
 

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