idismoker7.3
COWBOY UP
I have a 94 7.3 idi Turbo f350 crew dually. Over heats on grades towing more so then not towing but still gets hot has new fuel pump clutch fan. Any. Ideas Thanks
overheating
- Thread starter idismoker7.3
- Start date
whiteboyslo
FNG
Assuming the water pump and radiator appear in good shape.....
1. Thermostat. The OEM Motorcraft or International units would be the way to go
2. Timing. Retarded timing can lead to higher EGTs and a harder working engine, which equates to more heat
3. Gage. How do you KNOW it's running hot? The stock gage is less than helpful, and that's putting it kindly.
Mike
1. Thermostat. The OEM Motorcraft or International units would be the way to go
2. Timing. Retarded timing can lead to higher EGTs and a harder working engine, which equates to more heat
3. Gage. How do you KNOW it's running hot? The stock gage is less than helpful, and that's putting it kindly.
Mike
Mine somewhat does the same thing. I am pretty sure I need a new radiator. It just can't shed enough heat.
Now, about the gauge. I have the factory gauge and an aftermarket gauge. They both work. 95 percent of the time, my aftermarket gauge sits right on 210 degrees. The factory gauge will read anywhere from the n, to the m at the same times the autometer gauge stays sitting at 210. There is no rhyme or reason to why the factory gauge acts this way. One time, towing up a steep grade, I got the gauge up to 250, boiled coolant out the overflow, and the factory gauge sat right on the R.
Now, about the gauge. I have the factory gauge and an aftermarket gauge. They both work. 95 percent of the time, my aftermarket gauge sits right on 210 degrees. The factory gauge will read anywhere from the n, to the m at the same times the autometer gauge stays sitting at 210. There is no rhyme or reason to why the factory gauge acts this way. One time, towing up a steep grade, I got the gauge up to 250, boiled coolant out the overflow, and the factory gauge sat right on the R.
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Usually the reason our idi engines overheat is the radiater is mineralized up because we tend to run tap or well water in the coolant. Distilled water is the only water to run with coolant. The other big reason for running hot is the fan clutch is shot. Occasionally the thermostat is the wrong one installed by someone that knows nothing about these engine requirements. We try to advise everyone to use only the factory Ford or International 192 degree thermostat. Others fit but they can not pass enough coolant volume to keep things cool.
idismoker7.3
COWBOY UP
OK thanks to all I hear the fan kick on and did the test where you turn the truck off and the fan shouldn't turn much after that I will check the radiator and timing cuz I don't think it has all the power it should. I'm still playing with the fuel my. Manifolds started to turn white. And the smoke. Was white The old fuel pump didn't. Didn't appear to be bad but it smokes less and black. New to these motors so still learning
79jasper
Chickenhawk
So you swapped the injector pump in the engine valley?
Or lift pump on the side of the block?
You say it's smoking black?
Sent from my USCC-C6721 using Tapatalk
Or lift pump on the side of the block?
You say it's smoking black?
Sent from my USCC-C6721 using Tapatalk
dakotajeep
Patrolling
This is solid advice. I chased a overheating problem for a few months. Just the radiator being corroded from using tap water in it instead of distilled water. Learned my lesson quick!
Good Luck!
idismoker7.3
COWBOY UP
I. Changed the lift pump next step@ for power will be the IP. But for the over heating know I put tap water in mixed with 50/50 aniti freeze what's the best way to clean the radiator
idismoker7.3
COWBOY UP
Only smoking when I really get on it. Witch is OK if I'm not mistaken
dakotajeep
Patrolling
Mine only lasted a year or so before the radiator clogged up to the point of overheating on every trip. I dang near killed that truck because of it on a long trip. My recommendation would be to get a new radiator. I did and my overheating issue was gone for good....
Thad
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Cleaning your radiater might be impossible depending on several things. If the radiater tubes are a tube called dimpled. then you really can't clean them. The tubes have a dimple pressed into the sides so the water flows slowly thru them. Well that never worked right but we have plenty of those radiaters out there. Secondly if your radiater is really full of minerals its not going to clean out by hot tanking. No shop can use the acids to break down the buildup these days. Sometimes when a radiater is hot tanked and then rodded out lots of holes pop up. So you can remove the raditaer and take it to a good shop or just drive it to a shop and have them pull it and clean it. I will say this about these huge radiaters. When they fill up with minerals from running tap or well water they are heavy and almost take 2 people to remove from the truck. I remember installing a new radiater easily but. When I figured out I ran the wrong water after a few years I was surprised at how heavy that thing was trying to get it out. Now I know to only run steam distilled water and a quality collant. Because we don't get a freeze out here I run about a 35% concentration of coolant in my water. Water is the best heat transfer agent. Much better than coolant. Now if money is no object then run the waterless coolant called Evans. If you do run that you never again need to change hoses or coolant because its a waterless and no pressure system. Modifying the radiater cap is needed so the expansion of the coolant can push over to the recovery tank and then suck back to the radiater.
idismoker7.3
COWBOY UP
Thanks to all I'll keep posted.
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