Ovehaul Parts list for your comment please!

[Garbage_Mechan]

OK so the truck is an 86 and the only mods it has (and likely to get) are soupbowl cut, Facet Duralift electric fuel pump, Banks powerpack 3" exhaust, and a Gear Vendor behind the C6. When it was healthy it towed good, daily drove great, and got 17 to 19 mpg. Just want to get back there for a few more years!

Here is my parts plan so far:

Valve job, new guides valves springs as needed. Bronze guides or chilled iron? New stock springs or something else?

Block: Was decked last time apart so....Mahle piston kit .010 reduced height probably .010 or .020 overbore since there was only .002 taper in the cyls 200,000 miles ago. I think there is a kit with Mahle pistons and rings as well as clevite bearings.

Crank: probly just check and polish. Always good maintenance

Gaskets: IH, Victor or FelPro? Victor seems to be the most commonly used.

Motor Mounts: Where to get that arent Chinese JUNK?

Of course all new belts, hoses, water pump oil pump, fuel return kit, etc.

Injectors: new BB from Mel or Ty4

Pump: ????? Worthwhile to ship it to Mel for a stock engine?

Any comments on where you got any of this or the experience you had after would be GREAT! I am usually the research king but I need to do this in a couple of weeks.

 

[justinray]

As far as the pump goes, I'd get a baby moose from mel.

 

[Garbage_Mechan]

Yep I have PM in to him about it.

 

[justinray]

The cranks in our trucks are forged, high quality, I'd watch what you do to it so you don't overshoot and end up needing a new one.

 

[justinray]

Also, I would reuse the oil pump, but maybe look into shimming it. Nothing will compare to our pumps. I'm not sure the procedure to shim it, nut do know it will bump it a few psi, either look it up, or someone will chime in on it.

 

[Knuckledragger]

No need to shim the pump, just check the clearance on the base plate. These pumps are made for high volume, not high pressure. As long as there isn't a lot (.007 or more) of end play slop, there isn't anything to do to it.

 

[jaluhn83]

Victor / Felpro are both fine for gaskets.

Machine shop should be able to get you a rebuilt kit.

Probably most important thing is find a good machine shop, then take your parts to them and have them inspect and let you know what they recommend. Don't get too attached to what you think they should do, let them recommend what the motor needs based on an inspection... they know a lot more than we do and have way more tools & experience. Even the folks on here that have extensive experience can't actually looks at your motor.

Do the oil cooler o-rings while you're in there. Also clutch & trans input shaft seal.

 

[hesutton]

The machine shop is going to be a key part of your rebuild. If they don't know these IDI's they can really mess up your build. The heads are a big part of the machine shop's responsibility. I had to take my heads to three different shops to find a place that #1 knew what to look for, and #2 knew how to work on the heads. The valve guides are cast as part of the head on these IDI's. Meaning, worn guides are machined out and new guides pressed in. The shop needs to know how to do this and have the equipment to do so. Manganese Bronze guides are super nice, but need honing, my shop couldn't do that as they didn't have the equiment. So, I had hardened cast iron guides put in my heads (from Precision Engine Parts).

Plus, valves, the seats, the springs, and their condtion are spec's they should check and correct if needed. Rebuilding the heads can be expensive, but critical to a successful rebuild............ and it depends on the quality of the shop doing the work.

If you don't trust them, find someone that you do.

Also, not mentioned on your list, but something I'd recommend........ balancing the roatation assembly. It really is worth doing and typically not a huge expense.

Heath

 

[hesutton]

HERE is a great article on IDI heads. It was posted by Jim Allen (PwrSmoke). Good read on what's needed to rebuild these.

Heath

 

[Devon Harley]

Valve springs comp cams 910-16 there psd springs but work well for us.

 

[Knuckledragger]

No need to go all crazy about valve springs or even guides. These engines are low revving and pretty durable. The main thing on heads is usually cracks between the valve seats, mostly on early engines.