? on replacing head gaskets in truck

[fuzzydog]

I am about to reinstall the heads on my 7.3 (engine still in the truck) but have the issue of the bagged cab mounts. Picked up a set of energy suspension poly mounts and have the 2 front driver side ones unbolted. Got the fuel tank skid off (geez what a PITA!!!) and going to lower the fuel tank tonight to get the rear cab mount out.

My question is, when the cab is sitting on good cab mounts can you get a torque wrench on the driver side rearmost head bolts? I guess what I am asking is should I lift up the cab on that side and block it up, install and torque the head on that side, then lower the cab and bolt it up? or is it ok to install and bolt up the new cab mounts and then install the driver side head?

Who has BTDT?

 

[Agnem]

I've never had a problem doing that, but then my truck didn't have AC either.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

The biggest issue I've had replacing head gaskets in frame is the sound deadening material on the firewall. What a pita! Without that stuff there it would make life simpler.
Just make sure ya have the head bolts that gotta stay in the heads rubber banded on the heads before ya set them back on place.
Other than that have a good layer of towels built up on the core support so ya don't stab yourself on the hoodlatch.

 

[fuzzydog]

The biggest issue I've had replacing head gaskets in frame is the sound deadening material on the firewall. What a pita! Without that stuff there it would make life simpler.
Just make sure ya have the head bolts that gotta stay in the heads rubber banded on the heads before ya set them back on place.
Other than that have a good layer of towels built up on the core support so ya don't stab yourself on the hoodlatch.

So you have done this and been able to get the torque wrench on the bolts? Thats good. I see what you mean about the sound deadening material - it is what would be in the way of the torque wrench.

Regarding the hood latch - I removed my radiator and have been standing on the rad support while doing the work but I can see how that hood latch could gut someone like a salmon if they were leaning over it, trying to put a 100# head in place. I also removed the front TTB axle to lower the truck to the ground - that has made it way easier than it would have been at ride height. I have a kingpin d60 going in right after the heads are done.

 

[Dsl_Dog_Treat]

Yup, it can be done even on the a/c equipped trucks. Sore gut or back or both will be on store by time yer done tho. I to like working off the frame rails when it permits.

 

[jonathan]

just use deep socket

 

[fuzzydog]

just use deep socket

?? that would just put the torque wrench closer to the firewall and make the problem worse. When I took the driver side head off I couldn't even get a ratchet and regular socket onto the head bolt closest to the firewall because the firewall (actually the sound deadening shield) is in the way. I figure at least some of that was due to the squished cab mounts. With new cab mounts in the firewall should be further away and sounds like the TW and socket will then fit on. Either that or a whole bunch of people have been replacing head gaskets without properly torquing that head bolt

 

[icanfixall]

I recall something about the valve pushrods needs to be in place at the rear most cylinders on both heads. I bring this up because you have not mentioned this but have already pulled the heads.... I personally would not do the heads un the truck but thats me... Not a strong as I once was. I think you would be way ahead if you just lifted the body and blocked it up about 4 or 6 inches in the front so you have more room to work Leave the rear of the cab bolted down so it wont move on you.... I'm also thinking the core support mounts will need to be loosened too. If the fan is attached to the waterpump watch for clearance issues with the shroud ....

 

[fuzzydog]

Yes I did have to leave some pushrods and headbolts in when I removed the heads, and will be sure to put them back in before installing the heads. I like your idea of lifting the front of the cab and tilting it backwards. That will probably give me the most clearance on that rearmost headbolt. Now that I think of it, if I were to lift side to side, I would want to lift the passenger side to increase access to the driver side bolt as tilting the cab to the driver side would move the firewall away from the driver side head.
meh! it's warmed up nicely here today so I'll play around tonight and see what works. I'll get some pics up to hopefully help someone else out who will be doing this later.
If I was to do this all over again - I would yank the engine.

 

[jonathan]

?? that would just put the torque wrench closer to the firewall and make the problem worse. When I took the driver side head off I couldn't even get a ratchet and regular socket onto the head bolt closest to the firewall because the firewall (actually the sound deadening shield) is in the way. I figure at least some of that was due to the squished cab mounts. With new cab mounts in the firewall should be further away and sounds like the TW and socket will then fit on. Either that or a whole bunch of people have been replacing head gaskets without properly torquing that head bolt

i meant a shallow socket

 

[fuzzydog]

Just an update for anyone searching in the future. Getting that head bolt on (closest to the firewall on the driver side) actually went quite easily with the passenger side of the cab jacked up off the frame. Plenty of room for the torque wrench.

Now the rearmost exhaust manifold bolt on the driver's side - holy

 

[icanfixall]

Why did you leave the exhaust logs off the heads when you installed the heads... They fit just fine with the logs on the heads. I know it adds some weight but sure is easier to work on... But now you and others know about this easier way of doing something....

 

[fuzzydog]

Part of the learning process, I guess. The biggest part being that I have learned that it is doable to do the headgaskets in-frame, but certainly not desirable. If I had pulled the engine and put it on a stand I would be done by now. I am close, but working in the engine bay does slow things down.

Oh well, live and learn and I can say I have learned a lot through this process. trying to get things buttoned up and started by Sunday. Still won't be able to go anywhere as I have to put the front d60 in, but at least the engine should be done.