oil pressure sensor location

[WrecklesCustom]

I want to replace my stock oil pressure gauge with an aftermarket one (I do not trust my old gauges.) Where is the oil pressure sensor? I am also in the process of adding a (pre sidewinder) turbo, with this kit is there another place to check oil pressure? Would it make sense to have both it that is the case?

Thanks

 

[RLDSL]

Stock sensor is at the rear behind the valley pan where it drops down just before the engine attaches to the bellhousing just slightly toward the passenger side sticking straight up. If you want both you could put a T fitting in there, or you could tap the gauge in to a pul that is just above the oil filter and slightly aft, a very small square plug That is an oil port and is a perfect spot to tap into for an oil pressure gauge. If the plug won;t come out easily , you will need to get a square pipe plug socket from snap on to get it out, they are about $13, ( It's an odd size like 9/32, have to measure the thing carefully )but well worth it, buy the socket BEFORE you screw the plug up trying to get it out because if you do that, you will not be able to remove the thing. There is also another larger oil port somewhere on the oil header but it would require a series of adapters to be used with a gauge.

 

[WrecklesCustom]

Thanks RLDSL,

If I pull out the plug will I be able to just replace it with a (1/4 or 1/8 or different??) NPT threaded oil pressure sensor or would I have to re-thread it?

 

[RLDSL]

Thanks RLDSL,

If I pull out the plug will I be able to just replace it with a (1/4 or 1/8 or different??) NPT threaded oil pressure sensor or would I have to re-thread it?

1/8" npt goes right in there so your standard oil pressure gauge fittings will be a perfect fit it goes mighty close to an exhaust pipe so a chunk of fire sleeve is in order for anything that goes into that port. If you have an Advance nearby they usually carry a chunk of the stuff for about $14 that is just the right size

 

[WrecklesCustom]

When I take out the square pipe plug will oil **** everywhere?

 

[towcat]

When I take out the square pipe plug will oil **** everywhere?

nope.
you actually might get a good dose of nasty sludge.
we have a member here who thought he cleaned out that passage before hooking up his turbo but didn't go far enough. he ruined his turbo bearings as a result
can't hurt to clean it out and then fire it up to make sure you have a good flow of oil. it's going to be messy but it beats the crud gumming up something else.

 

[typ4]

What he said ^^^^^

 

[WrecklesCustom]

Are there any special cleaning instructions?

Should I just get a long wire with a brush at the end and go for it? Any cleaners etc??

 

[Goofyexponent]

Will a "T" fitting on the existing factory sender work with a turbo installed, or will it be too tall? I have a Non Turbo motor with the "T" fitting installed so I can keep my factory gauge, AND have a full mechanical gauge as well.

It might be worth it to get some pipe adapters and remove the riser with the sender on top behind the valley pan, and adapt a "T" threaded into the block directly and remove that 4" tall riser. This way it would clear the turbo and still have the oil line away from the exhaust mostly.

Just a thought.

 

[WrecklesCustom]

Will a "T" fitting on the existing factory sender work with a turbo installed, or will it be too tall? I have a Non Turbo motor with the "T" fitting installed so I can keep my factory gauge, AND have a full mechanical gauge as well.

It might be worth it to get some pipe adapters and remove the riser with the sender on top behind the valley pan, and adapt a "T" threaded into the block directly and remove that 4" tall riser. This way it would clear the turbo and still have the oil line away from the exhaust mostly.

Just a thought.

I appreciate the advice but this sounds WAY too complicated for me to tackle alone!

 

[Goofyexponent]

It's not too bad at all really. Take the factory sender out of the top of the engine block behind the valley pan.

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It's on a tall riser about 4" tall. Your factory sender is threaded into the top of this. Remove the factory sender from the riser.

Go to a hardware store and get:
1) 1/4 NPT "T" fitting

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1) 1/4" to 1/8" NPT male to male fitting

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1)1/4" to 1/8" NPT reducer

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Go to the liquor store and buy:
1) AT LEAST a 6 pack

Drink ONE before you start, and ONE during the install...save the rest for the nascar race when you are done.

Throw away that riser that was threaded into the block.

USE TEFLON TAPE OR PIPE DOPE ON ALL CONNECTIONS!! Leaks are bad!

Insert the male to male fitting into the bottom of the tee fitting. The fitting should go straight up and down with the tee facing 90 degrees to the ground.

The factory sending unit is a 1/4" NPT, so it will thread right into the "T" fitting. Best to put the factory sending unit on top as it is larger than the aftermarket one (in my case anyways)

Thread this whole assembly into the block now. Don't do the next step until this piece is installed into the block or you won't get it threaded in!!

Now, this is where you take your aftermarker gauge sending unit and thread it into the "T" directly, OR if you need to, use a 1/4 to 1/8 recuder.

Run your line (mechanical) or wires (electric/mechanical) and you are done under the hood! Since you are in the process of installing a turbo, you should hae good reach of everything you need to get to. It's a tight area to work in, but do it right once and you won't have to look back.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[WrecklesCustom]

It's not too bad at all really. Take the factory sender out of the top of the engine block behind the valley pan.

You must be registered for see images attach

It's on a tall riser about 4" tall. Your factory sender is threaded into the top of this. Remove the factory sender from the riser.

Go to a hardware store and get:
1) 1/4 NPT "T" fitting

You must be registered for see images attach

1) 1/4" to 1/8" NPT male to male fitting

You must be registered for see images attach

1)1/4" to 1/8" NPT reducer

You must be registered for see images attach

Go to the liquor store and buy:
1) AT LEAST a 6 pack

Drink ONE before you start, and ONE during the install...save the rest for the nascar race when you are done.

Throw away that riser that was threaded into the block.

USE TEFLON TAPE OR PIPE DOPE ON ALL CONNECTIONS!! Leaks are bad!

Insert the male to male fitting into the bottom of the tee fitting. The fitting should go straight up and down with the tee facing 90 degrees to the ground.

The factory sending unit is a 1/4" NPT, so it will thread right into the "T" fitting. Best to put the factory sending unit on top as it is larger than the aftermarket one (in my case anyways)

Thread this whole assembly into the block now. Don't do the next step until this piece is installed into the block or you won't get it threaded in!!

Now, this is where you take your aftermarker gauge sending unit and thread it into the "T" directly, OR if you need to, use a 1/4 to 1/8 recuder.

Run your line (mechanical) or wires (electric/mechanical) and you are done under the hood! Since you are in the process of installing a turbo, you should hae good reach of everything you need to get to. It's a tight area to work in, but do it right once and you won't have to look back.

That was great! Thank you very much! I am hoping to install the 2" body lift this weekend and then get at the turbo during the week (damn job is getting in the way of everything)

I really appreciate the detail and especially the pictures!

Thanks again!!

 

[Goofyexponent]

Not a problem. With the mechanical gauges installed, you will see how inconsistant and in accurate the factory gauges really are.

When upto operating temperature, The mechanical gauge constantly shows about 23PSI oil pressure...while the factory gauge bounces between then O-R and even as far as the M-A...but the pressure never changes lol.

 

[Jake S.]

i made a tee at the top of the turbo to feed the turbo and a mech. guage. Same idea, different spot.