dizdak
Full Access Member
thanks guys, will get the oil changed, and ride on!!! the truck runs great, but gotta start the "maintenance" routine as i know nothing about what was done prior to me getting the truck 2 months ago..
Oil pressure / pump ?
- Thread starter dizdak
- Start date
johnnyb1
Full Access Member
To clarify it there is no oil "pressure" on the rings. On the maintenance, that is crucial on these diesels. But it's common to see these trucks at 4-500,000 miles or MORE!! Just looked at your sig. That's a NICE truck!!
seawalkersee
It needs a turbo...
I think what you saw was bearings that the pressure passes or pushes.
On the other hand, I have a rebuilt engine in mine and as I drive it, I am between 30-35 at speed. At idle though, I have verry little pressure, like 1-2 psi. Not sure if this is a problem or not and am hoping to get some input. I added .007ish shimms (closer to 8) to the spring and still have the low pressure. As soon as I start in traffic, the pressure climbs. Problem or no?
SWS
On the other hand, I have a rebuilt engine in mine and as I drive it, I am between 30-35 at speed. At idle though, I have verry little pressure, like 1-2 psi. Not sure if this is a problem or not and am hoping to get some input. I added .007ish shimms (closer to 8) to the spring and still have the low pressure. As soon as I start in traffic, the pressure climbs. Problem or no?
SWS
mariner45
Full Access Member
Just for comparison, here are a few readings from my engine.
Engine is a 1986 6.9 with CTS aftermarket turbo - non wastegated.
Heads have been done once. Engine oil pump replaced due to low oil pressure at around 120,000 km - turned out to be a cracked oil pickup tube due to clamping nut falling off - vibration does a number on these thin tubes. Replaced, oil pump, pickup tube, main and bottom end bearings at 120,00km. The ones removed showed signs of scuffing but were not too bad, but well on the way. All new parts used were IH parts.
Cold idle @ 50F 20 psi
Hot idle 10 psi
highway speed of 60 mph 50 psi hot
Oil pressure reading taken from back of passenger side head where sending unit originally sat - using an aftermarket oil pressure gauge.
I use 15W40 oil from Wal-Mart and it has been absolutely fine.
Don't know if these figures are any help to you.
mariner
Engine is a 1986 6.9 with CTS aftermarket turbo - non wastegated.
Heads have been done once. Engine oil pump replaced due to low oil pressure at around 120,000 km - turned out to be a cracked oil pickup tube due to clamping nut falling off - vibration does a number on these thin tubes. Replaced, oil pump, pickup tube, main and bottom end bearings at 120,00km. The ones removed showed signs of scuffing but were not too bad, but well on the way. All new parts used were IH parts.
Cold idle @ 50F 20 psi
Hot idle 10 psi
highway speed of 60 mph 50 psi hot
Oil pressure reading taken from back of passenger side head where sending unit originally sat - using an aftermarket oil pressure gauge.
I use 15W40 oil from Wal-Mart and it has been absolutely fine.
Don't know if these figures are any help to you.
mariner
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Seawalkersee.... The 7 thousands of shims will little if anything about increasing the oil pressure. I added 70 thousands and I see 60 lbs just about 1800 rpm. I idle at 20 normally on a warm engine. You probablt have a very worn spring so its never going to keep the pressure up. These springs drag on the sides of the valve and flatten out that side. Then there is less metal to act as the spring.
seawalkersee
It needs a turbo...
Sorry about my zeros. The shims were 70 thousandths added. I THINK I probably need a new spring since as soon as the rpm raises, the pressure does too. Since I have that much of a shim under it now, and only see almost 50 cold, here is my theory.
The oil cold is thick enough that it is overcoming the weight/tension of the spring even with the shim (since the metal is worn in the middle of the spring and the shim is on the opposite end of the bypass plunger). Once it warms up, the spring is still weak, and allows the thinner oil to bleed off at idle. If I were to shim it enough to make a difference, I think I would need closer to a shim 1/32" or so (about a pencil lead thickness). Now with that, there is no garontee that the spring will not just continue to collapse there.
Anyone know where to get a new spring OR what PSI they should be at a given crush distance?
SWS
The oil cold is thick enough that it is overcoming the weight/tension of the spring even with the shim (since the metal is worn in the middle of the spring and the shim is on the opposite end of the bypass plunger). Once it warms up, the spring is still weak, and allows the thinner oil to bleed off at idle. If I were to shim it enough to make a difference, I think I would need closer to a shim 1/32" or so (about a pencil lead thickness). Now with that, there is no garontee that the spring will not just continue to collapse there.
Anyone know where to get a new spring OR what PSI they should be at a given crush distance?
SWS
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
Sorry to post this but a new spring is gonna cost you around $300.00...
I have tried but can't find anyone that can sell just the spring. You need the entire rear oil cooler bundle header. Thats the end the oil filter screws on to. A spring isn't just a wound up piece of wire. Tension, wire diameter and length all play a big deal in the making of a "spring". I wish we could talk to the place that makes these headers... I'm sure they have plenty of them laying around....
I have tried but can't find anyone that can sell just the spring. You need the entire rear oil cooler bundle header. Thats the end the oil filter screws on to. A spring isn't just a wound up piece of wire. Tension, wire diameter and length all play a big deal in the making of a "spring". I wish we could talk to the place that makes these headers... I'm sure they have plenty of them laying around....
seawalkersee
It needs a turbo...
Any idea what the pressure is at a given distance compressed? The rest I can fudge, but I do NOT want to spend an afternoon pulling it, fixing it, and reinstalling it to have to do it again.
SWS
SWS
seawalkersee
It needs a turbo...
On the same subject (sorta), is the PS oil pump the same or different?
SWS
SWS
dizdak
Full Access Member
wow been on vacation this week and haven't checked the site, surprised this post is still going...glad i am not the only one with questions/ concerns of the seemingly lower oil pressure..i like all the reading though..
icanfixall
Official GMM hand model
A powerstroke and an id engine oil pumps are completely differant. The psd connects around the end of the crank where ours is bolted to the block and driven by a gear setup. Look in ebay for a psd and id oil pump. there are some offered for bids.
