Looking at the picture of the cylinder closer those scuffs just scream at me that the cylinder got pretty hot. Maybe pre detonation, probably lean condition. Couple that with pulling a heavy load and the thin cylinder walls for a trifecta. If only one or two cylinders got hot then the egt probably wouldn't show the peak temps of those cylinders.
Oh $H!T Big Problem
- Thread starter IDIJunkie
- Start date
thanx but they are all no good to me.i need a complete parts truck for all the wiring harnesses to go from an idi to the stroke.wich is the reason im selling my motor.sell the good idi for the money to buy a truck with everything i need
david85
Full Access Member
Diesels don't suffer from preigignition since the fuel is only exposed to the chamber when its time to burn it. Preignition only happens in engines that breathe their fuel in along with the intake air charge. Diesels inject the fuel at TDC making preignition impossible unless there is a leaking injector (but you generally know when you have a leaking inkector). Fuel mixture is also dynamic since diesels have no throttle valve.
Running timing too far advanced is ******* the engine, but I don't know how this one was timed.
Personally, I would start looking for a later version 6.9 to build up.
Running timing too far advanced is ******* the engine, but I don't know how this one was timed.
Personally, I would start looking for a later version 6.9 to build up.
diesels can and do detonate(preignition)the fuel is not injected at TDC.it is injected before TDC otherwise known as advanced timing.retarded timing injects fuel ATDCtiming to far advanced,leaking injectors will cause it to detonate.
The timing was set to 9 deg about 4000 miles ago. The engine was running perfect when I pulled it into the shop. It wasn't knocking and didn't have any unusal sounds other than air bubbles coming out the radiator. It sat for 2 months and when I started it up at 15 out side temp it took about 1 revolution and fired up no problem. Also the truck has new ip, injectors, water pump, radiator, and turbo less than 4000 miles ago. I will most likely not go with a 6.9 since I have new heads and arp studs for the 7.3.
david85
Full Access Member
How do you intend to use the head studs from the 7.3 in a 6.9 block?
dyoung14
Is getting worn out
im pretty sure he said he wouldnt go with a 6.9. i think you just misunder stood his post lol
dyoung14
Is getting worn out
but i belive that the 6.9 would be the best choice, but true he already has new heads and studs so i guess 7.3 is cheaper, if he gets one in good shape and not ate up by cavitation
david85
Full Access Member
Alex S
Jeoff
hmmmm kinda been there before. If it were me i think id slap it back together and run it till she dies or gets excessively smoky. In that time i would look for a good replacement engine and keep it handy or rebuild it. Who knows you might pinch another 50K out of it
The cylinder wall has a crack ! It's not worth all the labor to slap it together and hope for the best. It'll let you down when you need it most. Then there's the tow bill.
By getting a buildable block IDIJunkie can use all of his rotating assembly which is special to the factory turbo and balance matched to his flywheel. Overhaul kit is $500 on Ebay A cheap stone hone is $20 at harbor freight. Times are tough right now to throw out huge cash at an engine. Plus there is the personal satisfaction of an engine that has been put together by you.
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