Not-Charging Frustration

[idi_econoline]

Remember the volt gauge in the dash is reading the voltage in the dash wiring. Not unusual to have a 2 volt drop in the wiring from the battery to the dash wiring.

Pulled fuse # 18, which powers the gauge cluster. The same 12.something as at the batteries.

My cluster gauge actually WAS quite accurate.

 

[idi_econoline]

The springy plastic clip part of the two wire connector at the alternator is weak/bad on my RV. It tends to wiggle out from engine vibration, causing the alternator to shut off. I was able to put a small zip tie around the plastic connector to hold it firmly into the alternator.

Judging by the butt connectors, someone already replaced the connector. Latches in properly, so not concerned about it. Thanks!

 

[idi_econoline]

What puzzles me is that all started immediately after sitting for two weeks. Besides removing the driver's side battery and disconnecting the passenger one, I did unbolt the fuse panel for access to the brake pedal and booster bolts. Touching the fuse panel shouldn't cause my issues, should it? Especially with same voltage in panel?

 

[Cubey]

Judging by the butt connectors, someone already replaced the connector. Latches in properly, so not concerned about it. Thanks!

Are you sure there are good connections in the butt connectors? Might be worth checking.

 

[idi_econoline]

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here is a wiring diagram of the 3g alternator

Interesting point on the diagram.... have NEVER had a ground wire going to that center terminal!

 

[idi_econoline]

Are you sure there are good connections in the butt connectors? Might be worth checking.

Hmm, good point!

 

[Cubey]

Hmm, good point!

I would trust a twist on wire nuts and a thick layer electrical tape vs crimp on butt connectors. They just seem so weak unless you can get then crimped very well. Even just crappy hand splicing would probably be more reliable, but maybe I'm just a hack when it comes to electrical. I do use butt connectors sometimes but I never like them much.

 

[Philip1]

Interesting point on the diagram.... have NEVER had a ground wire going to that center terminal!

Are you talking about the "s" terminal? That goes from the built in regulator to the field windings in the alternator.

 

[idi_econoline]

Are you talking about the "s" terminal? That goes from the built in regulator to the field windings in the alternator.

That terminal near the center for the ground. My van has no such wire, and hasn't in the 11 years I've owned it.

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[idi_econoline]

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All right, both the yellow/white and big red output wire are under 1 ohm to the starter solenoid. And, only one crimp-butt connector, on the white wire.

 

[idi_econoline]

Thinking it wouldn't hurt to take the "new" alternator back tomorrow for testing. ("REMANUFACTURED IN CHINA'), but with a "limited lifetime warranty."

 

[IDIBRONCO]

My van has no such wire, and hasn't in the 11 years I've owned it.

It probably doesn't need a separate ground wire since it should ground through the mounting bracket.

 

[stick_witch]

That terminal near the center for the ground. My van has no such wire, and hasn't in the 11 years I've owned it.

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All the 3gs ive seen have never had this ground wire. This is because the alt is grounded through the casing to the mounting bracket.


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[Philip1]

That terminal near the center for the ground. My van has no such wire, and hasn't in the 11 years I've owned it.

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I dont know how I missed that lol. Possibly there to help prevent high resistance when the mount starts to corrode. Some applications use it, others don't.

 

[Bouncer]

So on my 90’ F350 with v belts, can I change the serpentine pully out to a v belt pully to put a 3 G on it?