No start after IP. Shocking.

[The_Josh_Bear]

Did you crack as many injectors as possible to purge the air from the injector lines by cranking it with them open? They will EVENTUALLY fire up if you don't crack them, but it can take multiple battery charge cycles, or maybe never with a weak pump. Years ago, before I got an E-pump I had an IP get air-locked so bad it took me 3 full battery charges and still couldn't get it to go. I drive stick shifts for many reasons...pull-start for the win! It still took over a full block in 3rd gear being pulled before it fired on it's own. Ridiculous... I'm sure most of that was due to a weak/old IP and I didn't crack many lines early in the whole debacle.

OH, crack the lines, get some gasoline in a spray bottle you don't care about. Have someone turn over the beast and spray into the intake. You can actually run it like this till your hand cramps up from pumping. But anyway it'll save your batteries and starter to purge the air. Just use your head around gasoline mist. DON'T cycle the glow plugs or make sparks or smoke... etc.

Hope you get it fired up,
Joshua

 

[Badkatmotorsport]

I did not crack them all open, mostly because for whatever reason, the hard line connections from the ip to the injectors are weak as heck and didnt want to risk breaking any more (there is one other that is also split in the same way but not leaking). As i said, the number one fitting cracked and is pushing some bubbly fuel out, so i figured the fuel/ air was working into the injectors.

Also, since it seems to pump out from the return line, the IP should be full, no? I'm going to get the one injector with bunged up threads and a couple lines ordered from work tomorrow and will probably do some of the clear fuel line mod stuff just to aid in all of this.

I am tempted to just get all new injectors, redo the return line kit, and all new hard lines just to cover my bases, BUT Im really frustrated because I'm only doing the IP because of the fuel in the oil thing, and dont want to blow a *** on a new IP just to find out its still making oil/needs a rebuild or something awful. It was just a cheap truck that i dont have a budget for rebuilding.

I understand that these IPs have a lot of room for air, but its to the point where I'm concerned for my starter. I will put the gas in the bottle on the list. I dont keep ether around, but a quick snort of brakekleen resulted in nothing. I considered trying to pull start it, but with so much questionable crap, i didnt want to waste the time, and my neighbors already think enough about me that I could not be dragging an old ford around the neighborhood with my car, and they would be ok with it.

Thanks again, guys!

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

So to help your concerns, if the return line is pushing fuel through(and it should be) then the IP is full of fuel. No problems there, the problem is there is still air inside the lines between the IP and the injectors. So do what you need to do with a good injector and lines before trying again, but rest assured that the only issue is air between the IP and the injectors.

And once that's purged with the lines(at the injectors) cracked and then tightened back down, you're good to give it a start for real. Just remember no glow plugs and gasoline! I hope it works out for you, I have been there myself.

Also when purging it's common to just crack 4 lines but get 5 or 6 if you can. Don't drive yourself crazy trying to get all 8. Once they have that bubbly fuel coming out they are close, but wait until it becomes not bubbly before locking down the line nut.

 

[Badkatmotorsport]

Is there a prefered place to start when cracking/tightening them? I'd like to leave the number one alone until Im ready to take it off, because as it is, it shouldnt impede starting. For example, could I crack just the drivers side bank, and maybe one or two on the other side?

Im really trying to run through everything. As somone who works in the automotive industry, the old adage of, "If it ran before before you dicked with it and doesn't now..." is loud in my ear.

 

[saburai]

Recently, with a tired stater, we needed to crack all eight. Multiple attempt with other strategies were fruitless...

 

[The_Josh_Bear]

Is there a prefered place to start when cracking/tightening them? I'd like to leave the number one alone until Im ready to take it off, because as it is, it shouldnt impede starting. For example, could I crack just the drivers side bank, and maybe one or two on the other side?

Im really trying to run through everything. As somone who works in the automotive industry, the old adage of, "If it ran before before you dicked with it and doesn't now..." is loud in my ear.

Yes you can do that. Any 5 or 6 will do, there is no order to them other than simply crack them at the injector and not at the IP.