New owner - West Sacramento, CA

[02AutoWag]

Hello All,

A short 3 years ago my wife and I decided to sell my perfectly good 2000 Honda Civic and her 2000 Subaru Legacy in order to make a move to Volkswagen’s diesel vehicles with the TDI motors. We haven’t looked back. Fortunately for us, biodiesel is locally commercially available. For all but a couple months during our coldest of winter (not too cold in West Sacramento, CA), we use a B99 blend.

Also at this time we bought a house and needed a truck for all those home projects. I purchased a 1991 Toyota with the 22re motor and really overloaded that thing every time I used it. It was time to get a larger truck. My Father in-law’s suggestion was to look at the old Fords. He has a 1989 7.3L 2wd with the 5-speed and it has worked very well for him for farm duties on and off road.

So that’s when I spotted a 1987 6.9L 2wd X-cab with a C6…and brought it home.

Just two weeks after bringing it home, my friend was using the truck to move some things. He calls from a parking lot saying he lost power steering and sees steam from under the hood. Fortunately my Father in-law was in town and we drive over to the disabled truck. Water pump pulley is cocked to the side, belts are twisted sideways, and I’m guessing the whole thing ceased, taking out the power steering. I replaced the pump, but I wasn’t able to bend the water pump pulley straight enough to prevent a slight wobble in the AC belt.

Other issues:
-AC doesn’t work. Was converted to 134, but it’s not blowing cold.
-Leak at upper radiator seam (one drip per second)…can I use Stop Leak?
-Rear brakes need replacing.

I look forward to learning more about these trucks. Thanks for the info provide so far.

Russ

 

[Agnem]

Welcome to the site Russ. Yes, you can use stop leak, but we'd rather see you take the radiator out and get it serviced at a reputable radiator repair shop. Based on the fact that you lost your water pump, it would probably be wise to service the whole cooling system, and install a coolant filter (which would preclude the use of stop-leak). The AC may have been converted incorrectly, or maybe the leak was never fixed. A new oriface tube is probably in order and a fresh purge and recharge. Brakes are not a big deal. If you haven't yet, read the FAQ's and tech articles. We've got a good bit of stuff here that will head off a lot of questions.

 

[Devilish]

That wobble will stress your water pump into an early failure. How early, I don't know. I have a radiator from a 85 6.9 and the engine from same in the back of a van that has a pulley. I live in reno so if you like gettin away for a short bit then maybe we can talk turkey.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

What Devilish said about the pulley - wobbling pulleys are the evil for V-belts, my old jacked-up '78 F150 had that issue with the crank pulley and it would cause some nasty belt slap, it killed a new alternator belt in just 3 weeks, the PS belt laste about that long too - had to double-stack the alternator belts, and install two idlers. Look for a new water pump pulley, you'll thank yourself in the long run.

 

[02AutoWag]

Thanks guys.

My problem is that I'm not too sure how much money I want to throw at this truck. It only gets used for home projects and is not my daily commuter. On one hand I understand that a well taken care of motor will outlast the body, but I don't think I'd give it enough use to justify the cost. Ohh, and did you see my signature...I need to get rid of vehicles before I go spending more money.

If I remove the radiator, what does a shop charge to pressure test and fix a leak? I'm sure it'll cost more than a $5 LeakStop treatment...

Devilish - A bit inpersonal, but Reno is a bit far given my schedule. Would you consider shipping the water pump pulley?

I already threw some money at trying to fill the AC system. Early afternoon; temps in the 70s; truck sitting all morning; generic pressure indicator on the filling bottle; pressure reads 85psig. When I turn it on, the thing will short cycle for 7 seconds off as it climbs to 45 psig, then on for 1 second as it drops to 20 psig. A new pressure switch was installed too. Seems like the AC should work to me...???

Another issue I have is the headlight switch and hear that this is something I should address sooner than later or risk a fire. I got it with properly working headlights, but only the right side of the instrument panel would illuminate. Just yesterday, pulling and twisting the knob resulted in all the lights going out. I don't know the first thing about electrical work. Is there a step by step guide for replacing?

Any locally trusted members here that are willing to take lets say a few hundred bucks to fix all the things that need to be addressed?

Thanks,
Russ

 

[Devilish]

A new headlight switch is cheap. http://www.partsamerica.com/product...IE&MfrPartNumber=HL16521&PartType=408&PTSet=A
Partsamerica is Kragen so you can either buy online or print the page and purchase it in store. If buying in the store show them the page because it costs more in the store. Better yet, take that page to the Autozone near you since they do price matching. Then you can buy your brakes there because Autozone warranties their LLT brakes against wear which Kragen no longer does.

As for the radiator and pulley, if you came up in one of your tdi cars I was going to sell you radiator and pulley for $100 but I would be needing the old ones for another truck. It's going to be totaled by an insurance company soon and before the scrap guy gets the truck I was going to try and save as much good stuff as I can but have truck still complete. But then again, I can just sell you the pulley though those are plentiful in Sac right now at the boneyards.

With prices for fuel skyrocketing, it may be beneficial for you to keep the truck around since you can, (with a little effort on your part) run alternative fuels in it which can save you money in the long run.

 

[Devilish]

What Devilish said about the pulley - wobbling pulleys are the evil for V-belts, my old jacked-up '78 F150 had that issue with the crank pulley and it would cause some nasty belt slap, it killed a new alternator belt in just 3 weeks, the PS belt laste about that long too - had to double-stack the alternator belts, and install two idlers. Look for a new water pump pulley, you'll thank yourself in the long run.

Decent logic there but I wasn't talking about the belts. The wobble and vibration can and will cause damage to the water pump bearing which would result in water pump failure. That would really suck if you're caught in gridlock traffic during 100+ degree temps and lose all your coolant or shear your water pump shaft. Then you have to try getting to the side of the freeway fast enough before your engine overheats. Not to mention the towing bill!!

 

[Diesel JD]

I have the same problem with an R134a coverted AC system. Its never really been right. It has the right fittings installed professionally and such. It shows no leaks and good pressure on the gauges but does not cool like I think it should, not like the old R12 system used to and not like the newer trucks do. It does blow some cold air on MAX AC especially, the blower seems kinda weak, but it was that way before converted. A pulley for the water pump should be cheap, its something you don't want to kill, even if you don't care about the best longevity, if you want to keep the truck you really had rather not have to ever change that water pump. Its not as bad as on some vehicles but its a PITA to some degree to be sure.

 

[rip van sparky]

My lightly leaking seam resulted in a massive unzipping of itself on the freeway in Columbus. About 12" long and 1/2" wide. I just pulled it back together and soldered up the whole thing with a propane torch and plumbing solder and flux. I'd pull it, clean the offending area lightly with fine sand paper or a scotchbrite pad, and apply a liberal coating of solder to the entire area. Good reinforcement for cheap.

 

[02AutoWag]

My lightly leaking seam resulted in a massive unzipping of itself on the freeway in Columbus. About 12" long and 1/2" wide. I just pulled it back together and soldered up the whole thing with a propane torch and plumbing solder and flux. I'd pull it, clean the offending area lightly with fine sand paper or a scotchbrite pad, and apply a liberal coating of solder to the entire area. Good reinforcement for cheap.

WOW. What type of solder or flux is needed for a stock radiator?
Thanks for the tip!

 

[brians]

On your A/C... It sounds like you might still be low on freon. How many cans did you add to the system? The compressor will cycle on and off as it fills. When it shuts off the pressure will increase. As it is getting full the compressor should stay on and the reading on the low side should be a constant between 25 to 45 psi (very ambient temperature dependent). I would recommend using a manifold connected to both the low and high pressure side so you can truely see the condition of your A/C system.

Brian

 

[02AutoWag]

On your A/C... It sounds like you might still be low on freon. How many cans did you add to the system? The compressor will cycle on and off as it fills. When it shuts off the pressure will increase. As it is getting full the compressor should stay on and the reading on the low side should be a constant between 25 to 45 psi (very ambient temperature dependent). I would recommend using a manifold connected to both the low and high pressure side so you can truely see the condition of your A/C system.

Brian

Really? I thought the 85 PSI static pressure I was getting was too high as it is...

 

[brians]

No, the static pressure will vary with temperature the same as any sealed system (pressure vessel) but it has no real useful meaning.

Where are you in Sac? I have a house in Placerville.

Brian

 

[02AutoWag]

No, the static pressure will vary with temperature the same as any sealed system (pressure vessel) but it has no real useful meaning.

Where are you in Sac? I have a house in Placerville.

Brian

I'm in the City of West Sacramento. I'm just off of 80B/50 at the Jefferson exit.
Do you have gauges? Do you want to stop and give it a look?

My rough static pressure readings using the gauge on the filler can:
60 degrees = 65 psi
70 degrees = 85 psi

Russ

 

[brians]

Russ,

Yes I have the gauges but I won't head up to Placerville until the weekend of the 4th. Just hook your gauge to the low pressure side, run the engine, turn the A/C on full and add a maximum of 2 cans to the system. The compressor should stay running as more freon gets into the system. The pressure will drop when the compressor is running and increase when it shuts off. Pay attention to the pressure when the compressor is running, adding freon until it is in the 25 to 45 range.

Brian