New fuel filter and injectors

[Deezelcaddy]

I am a newbie to the idi and I was wondering if there was a consensus on which fuel filter to use? Mine still has what looks to be the factory setup with the canister and element. I would prefer a napa part number as that is what I have near me. I also may spring for injectors as mine are original to 91 I have a 91 7.3 but it has a ats turbo kit on it so I was looking for a recommendation and source for injectors. I don't know if they are the same for a and turbo
Thanx in advance

 

[Mulochico]

Napa fuel filter part #'s 3217, 3417, or 3617 depending if you want to reuse the bottom fitting. I use the Wix 33417 (Napa 3417).

As far as injectors, either Mel (Agnem, http://conestogadiesel.com/) or Russ (Type 4) are great sources. PM type4 or Agnem or get ahold of Conestoga and they will set you up good.

 

[icanfixall]

Thats the truth posted above... There are plenty of cheaper injecters available but you need to know this... The rebuild parts will cost more than a new injecter costs. So just how in the heack are these ebay sellers doing the "rebuild" for less than a new injecter... Clean and paint... Takes about it. Mel just offered a rebuilt pop tested and warrantyed set of Bb code injecters. He can be trusted. So can Russ. Usually we tend to feel that anything over 125,000 miles and the injection pump and the injecters are well worn out so we tend to replace all that as a set. If you figure they did there job for many thousands of miles its best to do the job once. If you are to replace the injecters and not the pump... you will be back replacing the pump and thats doubling the job. Most will remove the pump to get at the injecters because the lines can get in the way of work. Lines can be removed from the end of the pump but if you choose that way make sure the vibration clamps are reinstalled or lines will break... That happened to me when I had no idea how to fix it... The local dealership clipped mt for nearly $400.00 to replace number 2 injecter line... Thats the lower line on the pump from the drivers side of the engine. Maybe it was number 4... Been too many yars ago... I'm better now and able to do my own work.... No more dealers mting my pockets...

 

[Deezelcaddy]

My pump has 60k on it so I would hate to replace a good pump. The truck is running a little rough or maybe inconsistent is a better word. I thought a filter and possibly injectors would help a bit. The po kept very thorough service records but I see no entry for injectors. Could stock injectors go 212k? I am all for quality parts from the local guys so I wi definitely use a member. I come from the vw diesel school of $150/ injectors so $40+ is a dream. Although I only had to buy 4 in the past. My experience in diesel is solely V dub until now. When removing a vw pump u need a set of special tools to lock everything down to keep the timing set and a special tool to set pump timing, is it the same with the idi? Any excuse to buy tools is fine with me but these things tend to get expensive. Also, is there a guide to injector replacement on the Internet you folks would reccomend? And as a follow up to the filter question; what do u guys reccomend I use? Do I keep the water separator part and light? I have it now. Is there and advantage to eliminating it?
Or should u remain stock? Again, Thanx to all in advance, your advice is extremely helpful.

 

[Deezelcaddy]

Bump for more advice
Thanx

 

[Rot Box]

Welcome and don't worry too much that all sounds very typical of a high milage IDI That part numbers Mulochico posted for filters are a good start. I prefer the style that eliminates the stock thread on water separator (on the bottom). Either way if it hasn't been changed in awhile do it asap.

With that many miles I'd have to agree with everyone I'd definitely go for a nice set of BB code injectors from Mel or Type4. Not only would you be replacing an old set but the BB's are a better design along with being pop tested (few people do this) to make sure they all fire when they should. Proper timing is everything on an IDI Make sure you use the proper torque specs when you install them--very important. You'll also notice every injector has a rubber return line/hose connecting them from one injector to the next. Those lines attach to a plastic cap which snaps onto the injector itself. Under those caps are two o-rings which are famous for leaking. You will want to replace those with your new injectors--they are dirt cheap too. Fuel/lift pumps on our motors don't have a great reputation so if you don't know the history on it I'd replace it with a good one from Ford or IH. Some go electric with good success as well.

At 60K the injector pump could (unlikely but could) be getting worn out especially if it was a cheap rebuild/remanufactured pump. I wouldn't worry about it right now just do the tune up to the fuel system and see where that leaves you. My 91 ran VERY inconsistent when I bought it and it turns out I had an old fuel filter and mix matched code injectors. I think there were BB's on one bank and D's and C's on the other

Keep us posted

 

[SLC97SR5]

I swapped my OEM filter setup for the 3617, it retains the water drain and water in fuel sensor. Eliminating the lower bowl is nice since it is one less area to leak.

 

[smokin150]

I use a Baldwin filter bf1222 its the one w/o the sensor bf1222sp is with the sensor, ur choice, but personally I use Baldwin filters on everything. As for injectors I'm with the general consensus, do the pump too... makes life easier to only do it once

 

[gandalf]

You asked about an instruction source for replacing injectors. We have a very good article here in the tech section. It covers the entire fuel system, including the injectors and injector pump. Mel (Agnem) wrote a good article which many of us have found very useful.

Mel's Fuel System Article Click on the link.


You'd do well to read through the entire tech section. The link is at the top of this part of the forum.

Don't hesitate to ask questions. There's almost always somebody online here.

 

[gdhillon]

For the guys with the eliminating filter, can you explain it more for me? I dont understand 'how' it can be eliminated safely, does the water just sit at the bottom of the filter until you unscrew it and drain it?

I think i should replace mine soon, i read its just a simple screw off screw on type deal, but would I swap the old al bottom to the new filter?

 

[Mulochico]

I got rid of the "stock" style with the screw on bottom. I usually just drain it every 5-10,000 miles (every other oil change at most). When I had the stock style the light never came on anyway, so I figure I am safe. I think the owners manual says every 5,000 miles anyway.

If you replace with the stock style, the unit screws off, then you screw the bottom off of it (no comments please ) and put it on the new filter. Then the new filter screws back on the housing. You need to be sure all of the o-rings are tight and not kinked (just like an oil filter).

If you replace with the style w/o the bottom screw off piece, you just screw the new one on. Easier, less potential leaks both when you do it and later.

 

[gdhillon]

with a new filter do i get a new oring? or is it like an oil filter with the filter already in place?

 

[79jasper]

The filter itself comes with the mounting surface o-ring. But not for the screw on sediment bowl water drain thing.

 

[argve]

Water in fuel normally isn't a problem if you buy your fuel from a station that does good monitoring on their cloud point. But that said I got what I think was in the range of 10% water once from a high volume truck stop and my light never turned on. But that was once out of 15 years. I used the filter that eliminated the bottom bowl because I used to have problems with getting it to seal properly and so by not having the two piece design it made life easier. I had also relocated it to under the truck on the frame rail along with relocation of the oil filter to simplify filter changes. And also by having the drain **** right.there I could drain right into the pan for less mess.

 

[Mulochico]

The filter itself comes with the mounting surface o-ring. But not for the screw on sediment bowl water drain thing.

Don't want to ruffle feathers because I haven't used the "stock" ones in awhile, but if you look at the filter in the links below, it looks like it comes with both o-rings:

http://www.oreillyauto.com/site/c/d...=Search_02515_1124378_2922&pt=02515&ppt=C0023

http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=FIL3217_0062575072