New E4OD Running Hot HELP

[resqzuzu]

So I bought a 1994 F250 factory turbo a month ago with a blown transmission for next to nothing. I was able to find from a friend a re-manufactured 1997 E4OD in a truck that had been totaled and only had 10K on it since being rebuilt by ford. I was able to verify this through the local Stealership. I installed a new triple disc billet torque converter with lower stall, Reworked valve body, new solenoid pack, new MLPS, new filter with clip, PML pan, ran all new 3/8" lines with dual stacked plate coolers, and installed an inline Magnefine filter. I got the truck running and it drives better than any other automatic that I have ever driven. I also installed a set of Dipricol Optix gauges.

Here is my problem. After about 45 minutes of driving irregardless of in town or highway the temperature goes up to about 230-240 and wants to keep going that is when I loose my nerve and shut it off.

Here is what I have checked:
1. Fluid level. Reads good cold and hot
2. Pulled the codes. Nothing showing.
3. Looked at the color of the fluid. Still bright red and doesn't smell burnt
4. New lines are at least 2-3" away from the exhaust at all points.
5. Temperature sender and lines .. I placed the sender in the pressure port on the drivers side.

Only thing that I can think of is that by still running it through the radiator it is not properly cooling it. I did flush all the lines before I put the new transmission in.

Any help at all would be appreciated because I am about to pull my hair out over this one!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[ericboutin]

Do you have any other coolers besides the factory one in the radiator? Mine used to get very hot also...I only had one little tranny cooler on the front of the A/C Condensor. I added another one (biggest I could buy) and re-installed the original one in the bottom of the radiator. While I was doing all this I went ahead and installed a Perma-Cool Tranny filter....seen here:
http://www.jegs.com/i/Perma-Cool/771/10678/10002/-1

So now I have tranny to Perma-cool filter to orig rad cooler to small cooler on front of condensor to another bigger cooler on the front of condensor back to tranny...

Anyway this really dropped my temps. My temps never get above 185 now even in stop and go traffic in the dead of summer! Well worth the effort!!

 

[resqzuzu]

I am running my output from the front of the transmission to the factory cooler in the radiator then to two Stacked plate coolers in front of the transmission which are each twice as big as the factory one then through a filter and back to the rear of the transmission.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Bypass the factory in-radiator cooler, it maybe clogged up with debris from the old transmission. You can't really flush them things too good, so even Ford's policy is to preferably replace radiator at time of new trans installation, and if not the bypass it and run a big external cooler. Try to flush your stacked-plate coolers as best as you can at that time, and also replace you Magnafine too, as they all may have picked up some of the debris from the old cooler that got knocked loose.

Also, have you verified that your torque converter does lock up as it should? Once you're up to freeway speed just slightly tap on the brake pedal (you only want the brake lights to come on, not actually slow the truck down) without letting off the throttle, you should see the engine speed jump up 200-400 rpms, then drop by the same amount when you let off the brake pedal.

 

[ericboutin]

Actually when I was doing mine someone on here suggested using A/C flush kit in a can. It worked awesome for flushing out the factory tranny cooler.

 

[resqzuzu]

I will check the tc lockup in the morning I believed that it did but I will verify it again. I flushed the lines with Kooler Kleen that I got from NAPA it seemed like it worked fine. My plan was to replace the filter and bypass the radiator. Do you think that I should pull the pan and replace the in pan filter as well??

 

[gnathv]

I had a similar problem and it turned out to be the ground on the gauge was bad. If you have a point and shoot thermometer you could check the gauge accuracy and go from there.

 

[resqzuzu]

Just put a bandaid on it. I bypassed the radiator cooler and now I can't get it to go over 180 if I try. I took it up 8% grade for 2 miles hammering it and I got to 180 and quickly cooled going back down. Looks like I now need to find me a new radiator with warm weather approaching.

When I disconnected the cooler lines I got less than 1/2 quart with almost none coming out of the radiator output. Thanks for all the help guys!!!!!

 

[RLDSL]

Just put a bandaid on it. I bypassed the radiator cooler and now I can't get it to go over 180 if I try. I took it up 8% grade for 2 miles hammering it and I got to 180 and quickly cooled going back down. Looks like I now need to find me a new radiator with warm weather approaching.

When I disconnected the cooler lines I got less than 1/2 quart with almost none coming out of the radiator output. Thanks for all the help guys!!!!!

I'd say you've found the culpret. Since you have a filter on the thing externally, shouldn't need to change out all the fluid again, but when you get the new rad on, might want to change the filter element, chances are it got a gullet full off that rad.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Looks like I now need to find me a new radiator with warm weather approaching.

And I'd suggest you follow Towcat's advice and add a pusher fan onto at least one of the external coolers, as in slow traffic your engine fan won't move much air through the whole setup. I do get away with purely air-cooled E4OD, but I'm using my A/C condenser as a cooler, and my engine fan is locked so it pulls big cfm all the time.

 

[resqzuzu]

I was planning on hitting the JY tomorrow and look for a little Honda fan or whatnot and wire a relay and switch. With the snow melting my road has turned into a daily four wheeling exercise and I haven't been able to get my daily driver out in weeks. I did notice last night when I ran in the gas station it creeped up to 190 so the fan is a must and the radiator in the near future.

 

[LCAM-01XA]

Well, it also depends on where you're taking your measurements - if I understand correctly you have the sensor in the converter discharge port, which tents to run lots hotter that the rest of the trans.