Need some help here

Magilla84

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I'm new to this forum but I've owned my idi for over a year now. I read about the cold start issues regarding air leaking into the fuel system and glow plug system issues. My problem is when the truck is cold I can run the battery's dead trying to start it. It has new motorcraft glow plugs and glow plug controller was replaced less than a year ago. All the glow plugs draw about the same amperage. If I use the block heater the truck starts right up in the morning but I can't afford the in the rise electric bill(about 100$ a month, current draw is 7.3 amps). I really doubt it's a fuel system problem because whenever it's warm outside the truck starts right up. I'm looking for answers from any mechanics who regularly have work on these engines. I don't know the condition of the injection pump or the injectors and am wondering if that's where my problem is when its cold. Or if it could be a compression issue cranking sounds even so I'd think if that were it all the cylinders would be low. Both batteries are good I've tested them with a plug in tester and a vat 40. Its my dd so I kinda need it running. Any help would be appreciated.
 

typ4

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First need to know whatyear and all info, and it could be the starter.,
 

Magilla84

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Sorry bout that. Its an 89 F250 7.3 IDI non turbo. Pulled the starter last motnth and it tested good. Got a charger on the batteries to make sure they're fully charged in the morning. I think running them down has taken its toll on the alternater.
 

finitetime

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Mine has a little bit of an air intrusion problem that gets worse in cold weather. Hold the pedal to the floor and see if it doesn't crank faster. Just be ready to let up when she starts to fire. Causes that I can think of that you haven't mentioned would be low compression, or lift pump going bad.
 

Ataylor

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How many miles? If it is starting when plugged in, it sounds like a glow plug problem to me. You may have new plugs and contoller, but how are the wires to the controller? Have you checked the plugs with a test light?

Archie
 

johneich

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You are really going to want to have this plugged in for temps below 35, it only needs two hours, put a timer on it, hint, heavy duty Christmas light timers will be very low cost in the next week or so. This engine is designed to have a warmed engine in colder temps.
 

SkipBurney

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Have you checked the small rubber return line that goes from the fuel return rail back to the pump, thats where mine was getting air from
 

icanfixall

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I see white smoke out the stack when cranking. Thats telling me the glow plug system is not working properly. I read what you posted about the system and feel maybe you are not getting enough power to the controller. Please check the engine wireing harness main plug on the pasenger side of the engine. The two joined yellow wires are what feeds power to the controller. Where it goes thru the plug its really too small for proper current flow. Any corrosion will heat this plastic plug to the point it melts. Sometimes it starts a fire. Next time you crank the engine like in the viedo stop and feel the plug for heat. If its hot then replace the line from the fender solenoid to the controller with some 6 gauge speaker wire and terminals. It will flow all the power the plugs and controller can use... Be careful around this wire because its constantly a hot wire from the battery. Any grounding will burn down the line instantly..
 

RLDSL

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Barring the simple soloutions, low compression can have you blowing white smoke when trying to start as well. It would be worth your while to run a compression test , if nothing else, to find out what kind of shape it's in. They don't give a min compression reading spec, but on a diesel if you are hovering around 300 or less, you are going to have a time starting in the cold ( many times just giving the rings a good cleaning will improve cold starting greatly by increasing the compression A couple of treatments of Auto Rx is something any old diesel can benefit from ;Sweet
 

Magilla84

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I used a vat 40 to measure current draw. each branch going from the controller to the plugs peaked at about 150 amps and settled toward 100 amps.
 

Magilla84

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Now that I'm off work i can explain a little more. I bought the truck October of last year. The previous owner said it sat for over 5 years so i have no idea the condition of the engine. Every fluid has been changed at least twice. I know the glow plugs get juice as stated in the last post unless they all have some weird short. Also, even if the engine is halfway warm it won't start after the glow plugs stop cycling. Can't tell from the video but it sounds and feels like it misfires REALLY bad on startup. What is the history of piston rings wearing out on these trucks. Or does anyone know how I can rig a differential pressure tester to test for cylinder leakage.

I'll probly change out that power wire when i get a chance this week to be on the safe side. I've already done a ton of repairs where the po's put scotch locks.
 

mattplumber

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My vote goes to low compression. I have the exact same problem. Been thru the whole glow plug and fuel system and still my truck cranks for about 10-15 seconds when dead cold in sub 40 degree weather. Did a compression test and it turns out I dont have **** for compression:dunno. Guess my rings are shot. Seems to be a common problem with these engines due to lack of frequent oil changes. The PO of my truck told me that he only changed the oil 3-4 times in his 10+ years of ownership, and used only Fram oil filterscookoo. My truck still runs and drives awesome but burns about 1-2 quarts of oil every 300 miles or so. Havent decided whether or not i want to attempt a rebuild, re-ring, re-man engine, or dare I say it..............SWAP IN A CUMMINS. Leaning towards the Cummins............. Best of luck, but do yourself a favor and do a compression test. The numbers will tell the tale.
 

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