Need Help!!!!!

[Joe1989]

Alright i've got a 1989 F-250 7.3 idi non turbo. i have done alot to this truck and am still having problems with it running. it will sit and crank all day act like its going to fire but never does. Can someone help me. i just put a new injector pump fuel lines fuel pump fuel tanks and fuel filters. I have made sure the timing was right by looking at the crank cam and fuel and lining up the Y and the bullett. as it said to do in the hanes book. I have bleed the injector lines also. so i have no idea what is going on now. so if someone can help me my number is 5132747555 please text or call thanks joe

 

[oldblue05]

are the glowplugs operational? have you tried a little ether? if its a manual you could always try popping the clutch...

 

[Joe1989]

No they dont at te moment my lines to the glow plugs are fried ow would i go by replacing those??? and its a auto...

 

[Joe1989]

No they dont at the moment my lines to the glow plugs are fried ow would i go by replacing those??? and its a auto...

 

[flareside_thun]

In what way are the GP wires fried? Try spraying a ONE SECOND blast of ether into the air cleaner and see if she'll fire. Any more than that and you can do some damage to your engine. If it does indeed fire off after that, your GP system needs ome attention. (obviously) Welcome to the forum...and never be afraid to ask the most menial questions. The only dumb question is the one that's not asked.

 

[Fordsandguns]

If the wiring gp harness is junk you can start searching local salvage yard for one. Or sometimes members on the site have extra parts they put up for sale.
Are you sure the wires are unusable? A common thing with these is that the ends get damaged. But they can be replaced in a pinch with butt or bullet connectors.
I believe OldBull* on here suggested using the butt connectors that have 2 sizes, 14-16 gauge up to 10-12 gauge. He said the larger end fits the bullet on the glow plug.

 

[icanfixall]

Welcome to the forum. From the sounds of your posting you may have removed the injection pump gear cover with the pump still attached to it. If you did that is possible you have not timed the gears properly. You mentioned aligning the "Y" on the gears as I recall. For the engine to sound and feel like it wants to start tells me your timing of the injection pump is retarded. Move the top of the pump towards the passenger side fender and try to start it. Only move about the thickness of a dime . That equals around 2 to 3 degrees. Post back what happens...

 

[oldblue05]

I've been thinking about doing the butt connector for awhile now, but I've been pretty skeptical because it seems that they could easily come off due to not as good of a fit as the stock components. I just had a thought though, what if someone put a piece of shrink wrap over the connector and just onto the glowplug, that would probably keep it secured.

 

[plywood]

If you have wiring issues, you may not have power to the IP.

Turn your key on, then unplug the (correct me if I'm wrong) front wire at the very top of the IP. When you touch that plug back on the spade terminal on the IP, you should hear a click. If it's not the top front wire, it's definitely the top rear wire, always forget which is which. I can't hurt anything to try both, the other is the cold advance solenoid, I believe it should click too.

If you don't have power, run a jumber to the IP, and that will at least give you a moment of pleasure to hear her roar til you can make a permanent fix.

 

[icanfixall]

The front closest wire on top of the injection pump is the shutoff solenoid. The rear wire is the cold advance. It will not make a click sound when unplugged or plugged in...

 

[plywood]

The front closest wire on top of the injection pump is the shutoff solenoid. The rear wire is the cold advance. It will not make a click sound when unplugged or plugged in...

Say What??

Ohhhh, the rear one won't.........

 

[Joe1989]

I've tried putting starting fluid into the breather/ intake. and it just sits there and it will kinda turn the engine over. it will just for a short time just enough to shake the truck a good amount. i'm replacing the tank selector valve to see if its clogged or something. hopeing it is. ive gone through the lines again and made sure no clogs. then i did what you told me to by moving the injector pump a dime lenth to the passenger side and nothing happened special. I've had the truck to long and put to much into it to get rid of it. cause from what i've been told i can only get 1,000 out of it and the entire fuel system ive put in it is about that or more. could i have bad injectors? and is there a way to test em???

 

[Jbevs]

Are you sure you're getting fuel to the injectors? I think it's the timing still if you are getting fuel to them. Injectors could be bad, but I don't think it would entirely fail you so you couldn't even start. I think they usually stick open anyhow. I am still getting learnt on these fuel systems, so I'm just tossing my thoughts out there. Some one with more knowledge will chime in again before too long. Hang in there. No need to sell her!

 

[GOOSE]

You need fuel, timing and compression. I would go over the timing. Did you say you had the IP gear off and had to re-align the Y marks? That needs to be spot on. Keep your starter and batteries healthy also. Only cranck for 20 sec and I like 5 min cool down. I have melted enough starters, trust me. Keep a charger on a good set of batteries, low charge will only make harder starting and overheat starter sooner. Have you considered a compression check? It would be nice to rule that out as well.

 

[GOOSE]

Alright i've got a 1989 F-250 7.3 idi non turbo. i have done alot to this truck and am still having problems with it running. it will sit and crank all day act like its going to fire but never does. Can someone help me. i just put a new injector pump fuel lines fuel pump fuel tanks and fuel filters. I have made sure the timing was right by looking at the crank cam and fuel and lining up the Y and the bullett. as it said to do in the hanes book. I have bleed the injector lines also. so i have no idea what is going on now. so if someone can help me my number is 5132747555 please text or call thanks joe

You should line up a Y to a Y for the cam gear to the IP gear and a bullet to a bullet for the cam gear to the crank. A bullet to a Y is out of time. In the pic, the bullet to bullet is red and aligned by the engine remanufacturer. Sorry, the Y marks are on the top two gears, cam to IP, and hard to see.