need help finding 7.3 heads

brokeasajoke

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I just done heads on mine. Ended up buying a motor for the heads. Seems like a place in florida i talked to had them for $800ish. I paid $400 for a motor and $215 for valve grind and guides installed plus whatever else the machine shop done. He did not resurface them though. Google florida and cylinder heads together and see what comes up. i just done it and came up with clearwater, southeast, and cylinder head depot. I believe i called southeast. These are 2 of the many cracks in mine.
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jwsfarrier

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Here is the head min max thickness and the valve recession in the seats.
Head thickness is 4.795 to 4.805
Intake valve recession is 0.042 to 0.054
Exhaust valve recession is 0.051 to 0.063.
Only the exhaust valve seats are replaceable.The block milling is very small. Its also very hard to measure too. From the center of the crank shaft to the top of the block its 11.137 to 11.141. Sounds like too much was removed. The piston protrusion from the cylinder is max at 0.031 out of the top of the cylinder. If you mill the pistons the difference from the block decking then I would mill more. Then have ALL THE ROTATING parts balanced.

Thanks for the great info! My heads are within those specs so they should be fine. Im going to measure the piston protrusion tomorrow. I'm hoping I dont have to take the block back in to have the pistons done, although I would rather know now with motor on a stand then later in the truck. Keep ya posted
 

icanfixall

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Here is the easy to use measuring tool for determining the height the pistons protrude from the cylinders. Its magnetic so it sticks to each side of the piston on top of the block. Then the piston measurement is taken from the center of the piston. I find its best to set the gauge tool on the block deck anywhere it can measure to the deck. Thats your zero on the gauge or dial indicator. Then place it over a cylinder and hand crank the piston up till it stops coming out of the bore. Record what you get. Then move on and do the other 7 cylinders. You MUST have the crank tight and torqued down and the rods must be tight and torqued down too. I have done this measurement with a dial indicator and mag base but its a lots easier with this tool.
http://www.abs-products.com/measuring-tools/piston-deck-height-gauges.shtml
 

jwsfarrier

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That tool looks like the ticket. Thanks! Really appreciate the help. Looking forward to getting this motor together.It has been a hell of an education.Sure is nice to be able to call on all the great folks out there for help. Keep ya posted
 

icanfixall

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Check Amazon or Northern Tools for the deck height tool. they might be a better deal than you one I posted. A dial indicator from Horrible Freight is around $14.00 and it will work fine.
 

jwsfarrier

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I was able to measure the cylinder head protrusion and they all measure .025 to .027 so I'm just under. Is it ok to reuse a new head gasket if I had to pull the head after torquing it down? Thanks1
 

icanfixall

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Reusing a head gasket after torquing it down if doable but not really safe in the long run. Say the gasket fails in a few thousands miles. Now off comes the intake valley pan gasket and its ruined. then the head gasket. hope this is not the passenger side because thats a very tuff side to remove in frame. Would I do it... Only if this was the last gasket on the planet and then I sure would use some Hylomar spray of both sides of the gasket.
 

jwsfarrier

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Better to be safe then sorry. The motor is on a stand so easy peasy. Another lesson learned.
 

TahoeTom

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Don't know if this is your situation, but I thought I screwed up when I installed my heads swapped left to right. I even thought about it beforehand and still switched sides. Anyway, the castings are identical and I just had to move some pipe plugs and sensors from one side to the other.
 

icanfixall

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No idi has a right or left head. They can be used on either side because they are drilled the same. Even the 6.9 is drilled the same as the 7.3 for accessories.
 
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