need help bench bleeding master cylinder

[HankHill]

I'm replacing the master cylinder on my truck, how can I bench bleed it?

I bought it from advance auto, didnt come with one of those bleeding kit hoses.

can I still bleed it without that? I went back to the store and the manager told me no body includes the self bleeder kits in their mastercylinders anymore, also doesnt sell them

 

[erikbala]

get the master cylinder level in a vise, plug the line holes( should be included), fill both sides with brake fluid, push the plunger in ans out slowly repeat en-till bubbles stop.

hope this helps

 

[HankHill]

there are two plastic caps that are inlcluded that will plug the front and rear brake line ports, how will plugging the ports with them and pushing the piston on the inside get the air out though? where will it escape to

 

[erikbala]

leave the cover off and it will escape out of the top without bringing any more air into the system

 

[HankHill]

oh ok, thanks, does it make a difference if the reservoir is on or off?

sorry if these are idiotic questions, I always try to do everything by the book and 100% right when doing any type of brake work for obvious reasons haha

 

[MR.T]

I've never done any "bench bleeding". Bolt it up, crack the brake lines at the MC and put rags around them, fill reservoir with fluid. Put on some safety glasses and keep the rags around the cracked open fittings, then have someone press on the brake pedal until it hits the floor and hold it there, tighten the brake lines at the MC. This only bleeds out the big bubbles, but saves time and fluid trying to bleed it all out at the wheel end of the lines. At this point, bleed each line at the wheel end starting at the closest to the MC.

 

[franklin2]

The new "plug method" of bench bleeding works well. I have had to pump the master cylinders in a vise up to 30 times before I got ALL the air out. When pumping with the plugs, the stroke will get shorter and shorter, and the plunger will not move at all when ALL the air is out. That's why you bench bleed, and that's why the instructions say they will not warrenty the M/C if it's not bench bled.

 

[MR.T]

The new "plug method" of bench bleeding works well. I have had to pump the master cylinders in a vise up to 30 times before I got ALL the air out. When pumping with the plugs, the stroke will get shorter and shorter, and the plunger will not move at all when ALL the air is out. That's why you bench bleed, and that's why the instructions say they will not warrenty the M/C if it's not bench bled.

Thanks, I feel like an old dog that should learn a new trick.

 

[MIDNIGHT RIDER]

I used to jump through hoops trying to bleed brakes, clutches, and such things.

For the last several years, on various trucks, clutch cylinder or brakes, I just install the parts, fill the reservoir, leave the cap off, open the bleeders, and walk away; no pumping, no messing around.

Periodically, I will check the fluid level and top it off.

After an hour or so, I will close all the bleeders and leave it be overnight.

This system works better for me than all that bleeding hassle.

 

[sassyrel]

The new "plug method" of bench bleeding works well. I have had to pump the master cylinders in a vise up to 30 times before I got ALL the air out. When pumping with the plugs, the stroke will get shorter and shorter, and the plunger will not move at all when ALL the air is out. That's why you bench bleed, and that's why the instructions say they will not warrenty the M/C if it's not bench bled.

X's 100!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[HankHill]

thanks for the help guys, I got my new brake line on going to the master and ofcourse the master is on, bled the brakes in the correct sequence twice, and I can finally stop now, pedal is a little soft so will need somemore bleeding but Its too cold out (excuses excuses haha) and its time to eat! im hungry