My truck. Oh yes

[tbirdfiend281]

Check wrecker for shaft for steering,

Is the rag joint shot? You can get replacement for cheap 10-15 bucks...

There is a small flat spring and nylon bushing inside the collapsing portion of the steering shaft. Often the spring breaks and the plastic bushing shifts or wears out. This causes a significant amount of free play. I just replaced the shaft on Superfwifey's F150 there was about 4" of free play on wheel, ALL DUE to that stupid flat metal spring and nylon bushing! Replaced shaft....golden!

Borgeson, or Flaming river make great shafts....mind you $pendy too.

Good luck on it.

What colour interiour have you got? I have a few centre consoles!

Tan. I have a center console that I color matched, I just have not gotten around to actually securing it to the floor. I am not sure what the best course may be.

My steering shaft is shot at both ends, and being shot at both ends (actually being able to see play from both ends) I would guess the middle plastic bushing is probably shot also.

A borgsen or flaming river will end up on that truck, thats the way I am going to fix that shaft, it just doesnt bother me enough currently to motivate 300 or so dollars out of my pocket.

 

[tbirdfiend281]

i got my borgeson shaft for under $200 bucks, PM me or fiddle through my old posts, i can't remember off the top of my head the company name but they were great to deal with. I just don't want to waste my time looking for it if you don't actually care lol.

if you have an outlet, by all means, send it to me. If I could snag one for under 200 I would do that right this very second.

 

[warhog]

http://tal4x4.com/borgeson-ford-steering-shaft/000980

The guy there was great to do business with. If he had more stuff I needed, I'd surely look to buying from him again. 199 free shipping, can't beat that anywhere.

 

[tbirdfiend281]

its cheaper then I have found, but it must have gone up to 223.

Thanks for the info.

Does that shaft replace our whole assembly? or does some of the ford stuff stay in place between the steering column and the box?

 

[warhog]

It is $199. You have to add it in the cart and the price changes

It replaces the whole assembly from column to box.

 

[riotwarrior]

Tan. I have a center console that I color matched, I just have not gotten around to actually securing it to the floor. I am not sure what the best course may be.
.

All ford did was use some long thin lag bolts and large fender washers to retain the console to the floor. If you have a console you will see the mounting hole indentations in it already and likely the screw holes.

I'm not sure but IMHO I feel that 3/16" lag bolts are just not enough to hold that in if there is any weight other than a roll of toilet paper in it.

It a roll over or bad accident that can rip from the floor and become a projectile....OH WAIT....just about everysingle part inside my truck behind my seat can....OH *****

 

[tbirdfiend281]

All ford did was use some long thin lag bolts and large fender washers to retain the console to the floor. If you have a console you will see the mounting hole indentations in it already and likely the screw holes.

I'm not sure but IMHO I feel that 3/16" lag bolts are just not enough to hold that in if there is any weight other than a roll of toilet paper in it.

It a roll over or bad accident that can rip from the floor and become a projectile....OH WAIT....just about everysingle part inside my truck behind my seat can....OH *****

ya I saw that when I pulled it out of the the f100 I found it in. The reason I havent mounted it in is because I was trying to think of a better way to secure it, but I dont know if there is one. Oh well, maybe some click bond and lag bolts, that will hold her really tight to the floor.

 

[tbirdfiend281]

http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/moreinfo.php?pk=1328849&cc=1123805 <----What I will be buying.

The truck has been on major hold, I have been playing with the jeep a bit, and haven't turned a wrench on my own fleet in a few days, but next weekend, I should be finishing up the turbo install, I will run the stock down pipe for now, but for 90 dollars, a banks down pipe needs to happen.

 

[tbirdfiend281]

I have taken a lot of pictures during the install, I may write it all up when I am done. I was an idiot and put the CDR install on the passenger side, so I have to redo that, as I found out it goes on the drives side, guess that's what happens when you are following no directions and just wining it. I could get away with the CDR on that side though, just would require a longer hose.

Anyone know where I could dig up the gasket ("o ring") that goes on the turbo up pipe to the turbo? My kit did not come with the old one for me to compare it up to, or does those two just mate together with nothing in between them?

I also cant picture where the oil is supplied to the turbo from, I may have to rig something up for that.

 

[79jasper]

Sorry if I missed or read over it, but what turbo system is it?

 

[tbirdfiend281]

I didn't really say so that is my fault, it's the factory kit off the 94s.

 

[79jasper]

My PDF doesn't show any. But also I'm not 110% sure which connection you're talking about.
I think this is the one I'm looking at. http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-08.php

 

[tbirdfiend281]

My PDF doesn't show any. But also I'm not 110% sure which connection you're talking about.
I think this is the one I'm looking at. http://www.forddoctorsdts.com/articles/article-06-08.php

I think you are very right. The only thing I have to figure out this weekend is where that oil is supplied from on the na motor. I see the pipe/tube for the oil supply, but am not sure where it goes. I am close.
those pdfs are nice. I am going to read up on the 6.7 a bit now.

 

[79jasper]

It should be from the factory oil pressure switch location. The back of the valley, just in front of the bell housing flange.

But NA blocks had a smaller hole, so you may an adapter. Second option would be to pull oil from down by the oil filter. IIRC, it's a 1/8 or 1/4 plug.

 

[tbirdfiend281]

It should be from the factory oil pressure switch location. The back of the valley, just in front of the bell housing flange.

But NA blocks had a smaller hole, so you may an adapter. Second option would be to pull oil from down by the oil filter. IIRC, it's a 1/8 or 1/4 plug.

I have seen where another memmber did that, I have to lay eyes on everything to see how I want to go about getting oil. An adapter shouldn't be hard to come by.

Then once the turbo is on, I have to figure out what I want to do with the exhaust. I may get a banks DP after I settle into my new dealer, but driving the truck isn't to critical, both the Z, the bike, and the Jeep are up and running well so I always have options here at the house.

Just to run it around for a while I may try an adapt the stock exhaust onto the piece o crap stock DP, just so its not ridiculously noisey.

I am excited for this coming weekend, I should be able to get her up and running.