Moms truck again, new IP, new injectors, worse than before

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Hey guys,
We havent timed it yet but damn I dont think it should be doing what its doing because of timing.
We fired it up with the pump lose so we could time it, but didnt because of what it was doing.
So, we fire it up (didnt bother bleeding the injectors this time since its supposedly self priming) and it runs rough at first then clears up. Then after a few seconds it starts hamering/dead cylinder knocking, raise RPM up to 1000 it stops and runs fairly smooth with a little noticable miss here and there. Let it idle back down and it starts doing it again after a few seconds.
Plus on top of this, it still has that terrible vibration above 2000RPM.


Im honestly sick of this, I know it needs timed, but would that cause this?
I also need somone to walk me through how to time it, using an MT-1480 with only the luminosity method. What screws loosen the pump housing and everything.

Oh yea, its the 94 Turbo.

 

[Diesel JD]

I think a bad vibration is probably either a transmission/driveline thing like the Dual mass Flywheel thing they mentioned or a bad rod/bearing problem. It could probably be a lot of things, but you're right, the timing shouldn't make it do that! As far as timing with the MT1480, a forum member with a handle like Diesel E_350 or something has a good personal website with detailed instructions in PDF form from snapon. Others here say that you want to make sure that the magnetic pickup doesn't actually contact the harmonic balancer like snapon tells you but instead just comes very very close to it. The luminosity probe needs to be very clean and most of the time when the lumy method doesn't work it is because of an error with getting the pickup right or a bad lumy probe. You want to set the timing to 1.5*ATDC at 1400 rpm, but don't forget to dial in the correct offset, and wait till the motor is at operating temp and the timing reading is steady. the bolts that allow you to adjust timing are the same ones you took off to change the pump. Only this time you will only need to loosen the nuts and make all adjustments with the motor off until you get it right. Rotate the pump toward the driver's side(as viewed from the front) to retard timing and toward the passenger side to advance it.

 

[Joe Mc]

Are you sure that the injector lines are in the right order? If you swapped 2 of them, it would act like this.

 

[hoodshauler]

I would pull the valve covers and check all the valves, Kinda sounds like the beginnings of a dropped valve. I had the same symtoms right before mine sucked a valve metal clang is BAD

 

[Agnem]

RPM up to 1000 it stops and runs fairly smooth with a little noticable miss here and there

That's a red flag to me right there. It's not the timing (and your decision of course, but I would not run a pump that didn't have at least one bolt tight.) so you've either got bad injectors (were they tested?) or a bad IP (it's possible). You've got 6 trucks, so swapping between one that is working and this one would be an easy test, albeit twice the work.

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Okay, well.
MWFI says it sounds like we over torqued the injectors, which is very possible.

 

[icanfixall]

Injectors require 35 lbs of torque. Some have done more but not much. How tight did you install them? As posted, use some of the known good prats off the other trucks. Then if it clears up things just buy replacement parts for the donor truck.

 

[Diesel JD]

I don't buy it. I think you have some other mechanical problem. 35 ft-lbs is just a bit past snug, probably 1/2 turn. I really would be shocked if overtorqueing the injectors would cause all that especially if it was doing it before you changed the injs.

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

It was vibrating above 2000RPM before we worked on it. Still does.
But now it does this hard knocking when you let it idle for more than 10 seconds.
The tech at MWFI said its very common for people to overtorque the injectors and crush the nipple at the end.
We probably torqued them to a good 50+- lbs.

 

[icanfixall]

Overtorqueing the injectors has caused deformation problems in the past. Use some known good parts from the herd. You can reuse the copper injector washers if you anneal them. To anneal them first heat them over the flame from the stove or propane type torch till they turn blue-black. Then drop them in cold water. Clean them with a kitchen sink green-yellow scrubby and your ready for retorque. Do this only as a test and replace the gaskets later. Make sure they are flat too. You can rub them on a smmoth file or sandpaper thats placed on some glass because glass is flat. Otherwise you would be seeing funny things thru wavy glass. A mirror is even better because its flatter than glass. Thats one of the reasons mirrors are so costly....

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Figured it out, but check out the vid to see if you guys can figure it out.

http://photos.imageevent.com/allysse/allysse/spics/Movie 1.wmv

Oh yea, WARNING FOUL LANGUAGE

 

[82fordtruck]

I didn't hear anything bad there, although that may have been the bad DMF I heard at the end of the video.

Of course I didn;t hear foul language either.....

 

[6 Nebraska IDIs]

Really, I didnt think I had edited it out.

The knocking noise that we were worried about was in fact the DMF had gone completely bad after installing the new IP and injectors.

Im pretty sure the DMF isnt supposed to move from just lightly touching it, correct?

 

[Diesel JD]

Well if its the DMF...Mel and Lucky LaRue have fixed the vibrating issue... look for the "Lucky Flywheel mod" glad it isn't dead or anything.

 

[Agnem]

So did you end up swaping fuel systems over?