Master cylinder differences?

[Compu Doc]

In looking at http://www.partsamerica.com/ProductList.aspx?PartType=230&PTSet=A&SearchFor=Master+Cylinder

Underneath the Bendix master cylinders they list one for 9500 GVW and over and one 9500 GVW and under. If there is a difference what is the difference as they are listing both as having a 1 1/8" diameter of the piston I would guess.

Wagner on the other hand just has theres listed as 7000 GVW and over with no size spec of the cylinder.

 

[poolguy]

This is what I ran into while attempting to correct my brake problem. Although a post on another site said there are a 1 1/4 and a 1 5/16 MC available, I couldn't find either.

 

[icanfixall]

The 1 1/4 and the 1 5/16 bore size will be found on the F450 trucks with a hydroboost system. Thats how you ask the parts counter person for what you want.

 

[jauguston]

If you intend to install a master cylinder with a larger bore than the one intended for your truck be sure and check the bore size for the front calipers and rear wheel cylinders if it has rear drums. You will find the larger bore master cylinders are used with brake systems that have larger wheel cylinders and larger caliper pistons. A larger bore master cylinder on a vehicle designed for a 1 1/8" bore master cylinder will reduce the effective available brake line pressure and result in a loss of braking force. Hydralic brake systems rely on pressure to do their work, not volume.

Jim

 

[Compu Doc]

Guess I will have to call Bendix on this one. The only difference I can see a possibility of being is the flare nut size being bigger in the one rated for 9000 GVW and up. But when it comes down to it if both have the same bore than why do they even bother making 2 different types?

I still have the old one that the mechanic took off a couple years ago and I am wondering if it really went bad. They replaced it because the pedal was going to the floor and after they installed the new one it was doing the same so they wanted to hunt it down further (keep throwing parts at it until it works) and then decided to replace the RABS valve which solved the problem. They both could have been bad but I highly doubt it.

The old one is stored in a box but the outlets where the lines go have not been plugged so perhaps moisture had accumalated. Any way of telling?

I am going to replace both front calipers. Not having any problems with them yet other than torn dust boots. At the same time I am going to replace both front rotors and pads. As for the back brakes I am going to replace the shoes and probably both drums as well. While I am at it I am replacing all hardware in the back brakes as well as the self adjusters.The wheel cylinders are still good so I figure why not just replace the master cylinder also since I am replacing the calipers.

Also has anyone used the high performance ceramic pads?. Are they worth the extra cost and do they require a special rotor?.