looking to buy an 83 6.9

[bagpiperjosh]

im going tomorrow to look at a 1983 f250 6.9 to purchase. It has under 100k mi on it but im told it needs a new injection pump. If i were to buy that, are there any detailed instructions out there on how to replace one of those?
The guy wants $500 for the truck, which seems like a good deal if it isn't totally rusted out.
also... Is there a way to get the injection pump to last long enough to drive it home about 30 miles? its gonna cost me about $200 to tow it to my house, i would like to avoid that if possible

thanks in advance

 

[Knuckledragger]

If you can get it to start and run, it will make 30 miles. An 83 has other possible problems to beware of as well. The blocks have a tendency to crack around the block heater and all early 6.9s have potential head gasket failure at 80-100k miles.

Replacing an IP is not tough, just tedious. Don't take off the housing and drive gear with it or you open a whole can of worms.

 

[Devon Harley]

Yes you will open a can of worms lol. Working on a truck changing fuel an gp system an other upgrades. Had to take it all off an put it in a vise to get the ip off the gear took 30 horrable someone rvt'ed the whole circle ring gasket an all what a mess it was. Anyway she's back together now going to time her tuesday.

 

[Dieselcrawler]

Another pa member. I see you are around mid state. There are a lot of us to your east. Many good members in pa that all are willing to help out(cept John, damn crippled) lol

As stated check for the block cracks around block heater. If they never used it there probly won't be an issue.
As for only having 90000 miles, check it over good. The odometer only reads 5 digits. So at 99999 it will roll back to zero. Could have 190000 miles. Or 290000

 

[bagpiperjosh]

i know pretty much nothing about diesels... is this area that might be cracked obvious to find and see the cracks?

 

[smolkin]

I don't have good pic but the block heater is on the pass side block, slightly above the front of the starter. There may be a cord plugged into it. If there isn't, then maybe it wasn't used much or at all

Other red flags on the '83 that come to mind...crappy OEM water separator, glow plug system (a lot of folks switch to newer solid state '87+ style). I highly recommend that you read as many of the tech articles on the site as possible. There's a great write-up on fuel system refreshing with pics and everything too.

 

[bagpiperjosh]

I don't have good pic but the block heater is on the pass side block, slightly above the front of the starter. There may be a cord plugged into it. If there isn't, then maybe it wasn't used much or at all

Other red flags on the '83 that come to mind...crappy OEM water separator, glow plug system (a lot of folks switch to newer solid state '87+ style). I highly recommend that you read as many of the tech articles on the site as possible. There's a great write-up on fuel system refreshing with pics and everything too.

Can you provide links to any of these writeups? i love to learn about stuff like that.. thanks

 

[lindstromjd]

Can you provide links to any of these writeups? i love to learn about stuff like that.. thanks

They're all in the FAQ's and tech articles.

 

[bagpiperjosh]

They're all in the FAQ's and tech articles.

oh DUH! lol, thanks i see what you mean.. sorry

thanks again

 

[GOOSE]

Read the stickys at the top if this forum, a ton of good info. I'd shell out $500 pretty quick just to have something around the yard to play with. I need a cheap winter truck so I can park the crew cab when it snows, maybe next winter.

 

[bagpiperjosh]

The guy did say that the truck did start then stall out, i dont know if theres anything i can do temporarily to get the thing running to get it home.. any ideas??

also it seems this truck was a farm truck at one point, he put a flatbed on it and that would make sense why it has so little miles on it.

 

[GOOSE]

sounds like fuel delivery issues. It could be the sump in the tank, weak lift pump, cracked and leaky supply lines, clogged filter, bad fuel tank selector valve. I'd get a new filter, some fuel line and hose clamps, a new lift pump, some Power Service 911 additive, 5-10 gal of extra fuel and go troubleshoot. Maybe some new batteries if I was real serious.

 

[Rot Box]

I've seen it a few times where people think the injector pump is bad but in reality it was a bad fuel pump or air intrusion which are both very common problems on IDI's. If you do need an ip they're not too bad to change at all as long as you do it the right way

I would plan on doing right off the bat:

-Rebuilding, replacing or upgrading the water separator.
-Replacing or upgrading the glow plug controller. Push button is easy and reliable.
-Replacing the injector return line o-rings.


What I would consider doing soon:

-Rebuilding the oil cooler
-Add pyrometer
-Replace water temp gauge with an aftermarket one.
-Replace fuel pump just to be safe
-Give a good look at the batteries, starter, battery cables and connections. (these trucks need a very healthy system in order to start good especially in the winter)
-Trans fluid change and filter if its an automatic.

Even if you don't know much about diesel you'll figure it out pretty quick on these trucks. Like any old truck they can be needy at times but if you can handle basic repairs you'll be alright. They're a lot of fun

 

[GOOSE]

Just as a reference, this is a typical South Jersey offering........http://southjersey.craigslist.org/cto/3288047171.html

 

[bagpiperjosh]

Just as a reference, this is a typical South Jersey offering........http://southjersey.craigslist.org/cto/3288047171.html

So are you saying it seems like a good deal?

and that is a 7.3 the one i'm gonna look at is a 6.9