Locating "under hood" 12v hot in Start and Run 1985 Club Wagon

[SDEconVan]

Hey guys,

Looking to connect a self-made Load Center via Bosch 40A solenoid. Trying to keep everything in the engine
compartment.

Not knowing enough about diesels is it bad news connecting to the IP Shut Off sol'n?

Wiring would be so clean and easy if I can, BUT will the mA siphoning off the IP Shut Off wire mess up the IP?

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Thanks in advance,
******flame suit on****** (I feel I should know this, but don't...)
George

 

[79jasper]

Yeah probably too much load. Will cause funky problems. Lol
What are you powering with it?

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[SDEconVan]

Thanks 79jasper,

Glad I'm asking, I suspected it. I'm powering a Bosch 40A Relay, but the control NOT the load. Control
circuit power is usually in milliAmps but it can spike. The 40A Relay allows fused Batt 12v to connect to
the panel I built.

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This is an early mock up, wires will be shielded, all up.

Thanks,
George

 

[laserjock]

Pulling control voltage from the fuel shutoff shouldn't hurt anything. People do it all the time especially for electric fuel pumps. That's a nice load center. Any relay slots in it or just fuses? I am looking for an extra load center for under the hood. Problem is I need a bunch of relays. Most panels only have a relay or two.

 

[SDEconVan]

Hi laserjock,

Thanks for the info, I'm on the fence now, since I've gotten two different opinions. The relay draw is around 100 mA. My problem
is I still don't know the IP's requirements/behavior from FSS voltage getting bumped... ...life would be real easy if the FSS is not
affected.

I built 2 Load Centers, one 12v hot always, the other 12v hot in run and start using a relay. Both micro panels are fused because I
do not know what or if they will be used for yet. A relay bank would be *******' but they take up space, it's kinda tight under my
hood, but it's an upgrade I might consider later.

I did some more research and also found a thread talking about it- Using this 1985-specific diagram:

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I've located the R/LG wire in the engine compartment (upper right.) The IP is easiest to tap into, but notice the GPC is available with
longer wiring, or even the Fuel Line Heater. (Fuel Line Heater would be the "least invasive" to parasitic load, as it is not that sensitive
to any timing type function, it kicks in at 38F, so what if it kicks in at 37.5F...)

Anyways, I'm going to rig up a connection to the FSS and see if it's okay...

Thank you for your info!

Best regards,
George

 

[79jasper]

Oh just the signal wire, that should be fine.

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[SDEconVan]

79jasper,

Yeah, I meant the one wire to control the Fuse Panel, not the panel power itself.

Okay, that's two experienced opinions. "Where's my shrink tubing...?"

George

 

[laserjock]

Experienced opinion might be going a little far in my case.

My other suggestion was going to be the wire to the gp controller. The only possible (as extremely remote as it is) problem with using the gp relay is that if you get a momentary loss of power to the controller (for whatever reason) it's not smart enough to know why it happened and it will cycle the gp's as if you are starting the engine. Same thing here. You are using so little current with the relay, unless you had a coil short out or something to cause a spike in current draw, totally a non-issue. Bosch style relays are pretty reliable at this point only second to solid state. I'd say you have a solid plan. Run with it.

 

[yARIC008]

Pulling power off the IP solenoid for control of the relay will not hurt anything. That circuit is fused with a 30amp fuse and it will be fine. Just make sure to do your wiring up nice so you don't have a short and shut the motor down. Maybe put a 5 amp fuse coming off the IP wire to your relay control so if you do get a short it'll blow the 5 amp before it blows your 30 amp.

 

[SDEconVan]

Thanks everyone,

Got the wiring to the Load Center done today. I have been using a wiring diagram I made up to help me with the
Transmission Controller install and other circuits. I updated it to include tapping into the IP:

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Was extra careful to utilize the existing FSS connector:

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This is the connector I took off, I added a ring connector and left the original intact.

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Brass is original (FSS to IGN, hot in Start and Run) and the silver ring I added.

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All my connections are rosin soldered and shrink tubed

After two shrinks

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Got it installed and used a Loom Wrap for added protection:

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The plan is to get it to work then go back and get di-electric grease on everything.
I've got a bunch of other wiring going on too.

I'll post this stuff in my E4OD thread soon.

Thanks for the help!
Best regards,
George

 

[laserjock]

Okay, where did you get the labeled heat shrink. Is it plain and you print it on? I really like that and could see myself using a lot of it as I clean my truck wire harness up.

I also love the schematic. Great work as usual George.

 

[79jasper]

^ ditto. Guessing with the load center"kit."
What did you use to make that diagram?

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[SDEconVan]

Hi laserjock,

It's a label printer, called Dymo 5200, an internet installer buddy of mine turned me onto it. Remember those mechanical label
makers that made those raised-letter strips? same company.

I got to admit, thought it was a bunch of cash to throw down, but I use it all over my shop, on my tools, containers and wiring.
(I used to HATE wiring done by a PO, I didn't know which from what, with labels, I'd let it stay, easier to work on.)

(not affiliated)
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=24JSFkiRyDU

Hi 79jasper,

Yeah, I tend to plan a bit, years ago I would design/build in my head but ALWAYS went forward 2 steps and backwards 3, re-doing
stuff. Shoot, I plan stuff nowadays and STILL go backwards

I use a drawing program called CorelDraw, just self-taught on it, not as hard as Illustrator but a little more complicated than
Microsoft Draw programs.

I swear, when I get things drawn out and planned, it IS kinda like installing a kit, it usually goes a LOT faster. My job has me
so busy that I get only an hour or two at a time on my projects, yet I have time at work to think about other stuff as I work, if that
makes sense, ha.

Couple pics of the Load Center (now buried behind the D-side battery):

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Best regards,
George

 

[79jasper]

Definitely good work.
Label maker is pretty affordable.
So is the shrink tube through them? Or you labeled your own tube?

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[SDEconVan]

Hi 79jasper,

I read someplace that Printer Companies LOSE money on their printers and they make it back on
selling printer ink...

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Loss_leader

...so to answer the question, the shrink tubes are spendy, like 30 a cartridge and tho it lasts a while
(5 ft long) I'm so cheap it hurts,

I go to Amazon and get the flat labels (good price) and the wraps (good price) and the shrink tube (okay price.)

Hope this helps.
Best regards,
George