ericwade381
Full Access Member
I have been looking but not been able to find it. If anyone has the link on how to delete the fuel selector valve it would be really great thank you
link to fuel selector valve delete
- Thread starter ericwade381
- Start date
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...tor-Valves-Electric-AND-Mechanical-fuel-pumps
This thread is in the tech articles at the very top of the main 6.9/7.3 IDI page. Lots of good info there.
This thread is in the tech articles at the very top of the main 6.9/7.3 IDI page. Lots of good info there.
ericwade381
Full Access Member
Thank you very much!!
This is the write-up I did. Hope this helps. I will answer any questions I can.
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...alve-Install-with-Fuel-Tank-Switch&highlight=
http://www.oilburners.net/forums/sh...alve-Install-with-Fuel-Tank-Switch&highlight=
ericwade381
Full Access Member
Thank you very good write up. What made you decide to go this route I'm debating not liking the 300 bucks for a fsv
Plastic vs. Metal ya know what I mean? The ball valves are simple, effective, very little to fail and if it does fail it costs $25 to replace the valve. I like that I am in control of it now and it's right at my side. I don't have to wonder if the FSV is filling the wrong tank and about to let me sit in January like it did the last time it screwed me.
The only thing I would have done differently is moved the valve for the rear tank in front of my seat on the floor on the angle. My bench is shot and it's a pain in the ass reaching down there on the fly because the seat is shot and it sags out to the door. Definitely would not have wasted all the time rewiring and messing with the toggle either. I just didn't figure out the wiring until I was down there tearing it out. If you use the truck for your business as I do just be aware of educating employees on the system.
The other reason I did it is because I noticed my metal fuel lines were getting rusty and I had a hole worn through the line running up to the lift pump. The rubber line just made sense.
The only thing I would have done differently is moved the valve for the rear tank in front of my seat on the floor on the angle. My bench is shot and it's a pain in the ass reaching down there on the fly because the seat is shot and it sags out to the door. Definitely would not have wasted all the time rewiring and messing with the toggle either. I just didn't figure out the wiring until I was down there tearing it out. If you use the truck for your business as I do just be aware of educating employees on the system.
The other reason I did it is because I noticed my metal fuel lines were getting rusty and I had a hole worn through the line running up to the lift pump. The rubber line just made sense.
BDCarrillo
Full Access Member
Use google to search this site... type "site
ilburners.net" in the search bar
ilburners.net" in the search bar
IDIoit
MachinistFabricator
the SFV is only 275!
they are really nice.
no extra wiring to deal with...
whats even nicer, is deleting the front tank and installing a 33 gal rear tank.
but i only run diesel, and had other reasons for deleting it.
they are really nice.
no extra wiring to deal with...
whats even nicer, is deleting the front tank and installing a 33 gal rear tank.
but i only run diesel, and had other reasons for deleting it.
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