Lift pump and other fuel system questions

[fields_mj]

I'm wanting to install an electric lift pump this fall, and I have a few questions. First of all, is it as easy as it would seem? Looks like I just route the fuel line from the end of the existing SS line to the new pump, and then up to my filter. Run a loop of hose from input to output on the old pump and fill it with oil.

Second, where EXACTLY to I make the electrical connections? If anyone has any advise on how to wire in a purge button in the cab, I would appreciate that too. I'm looking to use that when I change fuel filters, and I'm also wanting to run a WVO blend in one tank.

Third, I want to put in a golden rod also. If I put the golden rod in before the new pump, can I mount the golden rod up higher in the engine compartment, or will electric pump have a problem drawing the fuel up to the golden rod?

Forth, My truck is NA. If I put a higher volume pump on it, isn't it just going to send more fuel through the return lines back to the tank(s)?

Thanks,
Mark

 

[redneckaggie]

http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=36264&page=2&highlight=carter+pump

this should answer all of those.

 

[fields_mj]

Thanks! I have to admit that now I'm a little confused though. When you were talking about the wiring, and you mentioned the IP and the FSS, I'm assuming that you were talking about the injection pump, but I don't know what the FSS is.

Also, it sounds like you mounted the pump back under the bed by the tanks. I thought it was supposed to go up by where the existing pump is only mounted on the frame. Does it mater that much? It looks like my fuel lines are metal all the way up, but I don't remember that well. I'll have to check. I was thinking that the metal went all the way up almost to the lift pump, and then had a loop of fuel line for the last 8" or so. I was planning on mounting everything up front mainly because I wanted a golden rod to go before the new pump to help protect it. I'm also going to put a FPHE in to help run WVO blends, and wanted that to go in front of the new pump in order to keep things flowing in cooler temps.

I've read about the chevy block of plate. I just didn't mention it in my post, but thanks.

Anyone have a good recommendation on a relay set up to use? Preferably one with it's own enclosure so that this dummy can keep it simple? I think that's going to be an important part of the way I'm going to want to wire my set up.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[fields_mj]

Thanks! I have to admit that now I'm a little confused though. When you were talking about the wiring, and you mentioned the IP and the FSS, I'm assuming that you were talking about the injection pump, but I don't know what the FSS is.

Also, it sounds like you mounted the pump back under the bed by the tanks. I thought it was supposed to go up by where the existing pump is only mounted on the frame. Does it mater that much? It looks like my fuel lines are metal all the way up, but I don't remember that well. I'll have to check. I was thinking that the metal went all the way up almost to the lift pump, and then had a loop of fuel line for the last 8" or so. I was planning on mounting everything up front mainly because I wanted a golden rod to go before the new pump to help protect it. I'm also going to put a FPHE in to help run WVO blends, and wanted that to go in front of the new pump in order to keep things flowing in cooler temps.

I've read about the chevy block of plate. I just didn't mention it in my post, but thanks.

Anyone have a good recommendation on a relay set up to use? Preferably one with it's own enclosure so that this dummy can keep it simple? I think that's going to be an important part of the way I'm going to want to wire my set up.

Thanks,
Mark

 

[rjjp]

FSS = Fuel Shutoff Solenoid, The wire that connects to the very top if the IP (injection pump) is for the FSS, it's how we shut down the engine.

 

[redneckaggie]

If you use a holley or other vane type pump it is best to put them as close to the tanks as possible now gen lightning is running some kind of piston pump i believe and it is made to suck fuel but vane pump are made to push not pull

for the relay i just used a four pin 30 amp relay from oreilys and ran the trip from the fss(on top of the ip) and then you just need a ground an a constant hot and your wire to your pump I ran the constant hot off of a external fuse box that i had mounted in that area and the relay is mounted on my drivers side fender.

 

[fields_mj]

Thanks again guys! That clears the wiring up quite a bit. I'm not sure what kind of pump I'll get. I think the ones that most guys are using for WVO are gear pumps, but I haven't gotten that far in my research.

 

[OLDBULL8]

You don't want anymore then 5-7 PSI to the filter, it will screw up the IP. With a gear pump, that's a positive displacement pump and you better have a pressure regulator before the filter.

 

[fields_mj]

I'm looking at a Walbro FRB13. It's a marine grade pump and it's listed at 7 psi. It's not rated for WVO, but it looks like a lot of guys are using them with good results.

 

[franklin2]

I found another good place for key-on power to trigger a relay is the wire going to the low vacuum warning switch mounted on the pass side fender.