Just wondering WHY Glow Plugs/GPC go bad so fast?

[dieseldirt]

I know there is a ton of GP info on here. I am just wondering WHY my plugs and controllers only last 1-1.5 years? I am running my second set of 8 brand new Beru plugs, new harness, new controller, the latest set of which I installed all at the same time (under 2 years ago) and they are already crapping out on me.. WTS light does not come on or does for a very short time. Occasionally everything functions properly, but it won't stay like this for long. Soon I will have to replace it all again.. But WHY?

Makes me think about going to manual GP's...................

 

[yARIC008]

I know there is a ton of GP info on here. I am just wondering WHY my plugs and controllers only last 1-1.5 years? I am running my second set of 8 brand new Beru plugs, new harness, new controller, the latest set of which I installed all at the same time (under 2 years ago) and they are already crapping out on me.. WTS light does not come on or does for a very short time. Occasionally everything functions properly, but it won't stay like this for long. Soon I will have to replace it all again.. But WHY?

Makes me think about going to manual GP's...................

I've had a manual push button rigged up for 11 years with the same glow plugs. Still starts perfect every time.

My glow plug controller one day seemed to stay on for a long time and I got worried. So instead of trying to diagnose everything i just disconnected it.

 

[ToughOldFord]

Yep, I think both new and old GP systems are junk, I don't even bother with them anymore, when I get an IDI if it doesn't already have a GP button I put one in. However if other people use your truck then keeping the system working is a good idea.

On that vein, when I first got my '84 (my first IDI nearly 20 years ago) the entire glow plug system was dead. I got a new controller and plugs at Kragens. Store brand controller, Autolite glow plugs.

I got around a year on this controller, then one morning on the way to work on the freeway it turned the GPs on and left them on, the enire way to work. Yep, fried them all.

I replaced the GPs with another set of Autolites, but this time I went to International for the controller. Never had a problem with the GP system in that truck for the next 8 years until the day I sold it.

Moral of the story, quality brands really matters when it comes to certain parts. Maybe get your next controller at International or Ford?

 

[franklin2]

I like my manual button. With the manual button I have had it start in cold weather with only 6 good glowplugs. It would never do that with the stock controller.

 

[yARIC008]

Yep, I think both new and old GP systems are junk, I don't even bother with them anymore, when I get an IDI if it doesn't already have a GP button I put one in. However if other people use your truck then keeping the system working is a good idea.

On that vein, when I first got my '84 (my first IDI nearly 20 years ago) the entire glow plug system was dead. I got a new controller and plugs at Kragens. Store brand controller, Autolite glow plugs.

I got around a year on this controller, then one morning on the way to work on the freeway it turned the GPs on and left them on, the enire way to work. Yep, fried them all.

I replaced the GPs with another set of Autolites, but this time I went to International for the controller. Never had a problem with the GP system in that truck for the next 8 years until the day I sold it.

Moral of the story, quality brands really matters when it comes to certain parts. Maybe get your next controller at International or Ford?

You just mentioned quality and autolite in the same post

If you do have an issue even with the push button, the autolites are much more likely to swell than others, or so most experience around here has said.

 

[ToughOldFord]

I was referring to the controller, I clearly stated the store brand died in around a year and the International one was still going strong when I sold the truck so many years later.

Wasn't making a glow plug recommendation although I've never had a problem with Autolites.

 

[riotwarrior]

Are your parts...GP controller FORD or IHI... or aftermarket?

 

[dieseldirt]

Are your parts...GP controller FORD or IHI... or aftermarket?

I've always used Motorcraft Beru Plugs, but this is an aftermarket controller "diesel rx" off ebay............ Don't remember what controller I had in there last time, Motorcraft I think.

Anyone have an IH Part Number for the Controller? This is on a '94 7.3 IDI factory turbo

 

[dieseldirt]

For a manual switch: What are you guys using for a relay? Or just a really big switch with 10 AWG wire the whole way??

And what are you using for a fuse/breaker?

Thanks!

 

[jwalterus]

I've got a solenoid wired in like its a 6.2 chevy gp controller that died

 

[OLDBULL8]

For a manual switch: What are you guys using for a relay? Or just a really big switch with 10 AWG wire the whole way??

And what are you using for a fuse/breaker?

Thanks!

Ya don't want to use a really big switch, you have to have the zig zag chromalox strip to control the inrush current and cut the voltage down to ~8 volts.
If you want a really good relay get the one pictured below, it's a Stancor 586-902 GP 200 amp Relay, the large one, small one is OEM controller relay, can't find what it's rated at. It will have to be mounted differently. You can google it for the specs. Last I knew, they are $60 online.
You shouldn't have to use a circuit breaker or fuse, the fusible links are for that. But if you rewire it, eliminating the links, then a slo-blow 150 amp fuse should be used.
Initial current draw is 196 amps for about 2 seconds then reduces to 135 for the duration of the GP cycle.

 

[ToughOldFord]

Use the relay on top of the controller.

 

[franklin2]

You don't need to buy anything but a switch and a little bit of wire if you have the controller like the picture below. Take the white wire off and tape it, then hook a new wire where the white wire used to go, run this wire into the cab to a pushbutton switch, and then run a ground wire to the other side of the pushbutton switch's other terminal. You now have manual glowplugs.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Sycostang67]

You don't need to buy anything but a switch and a little bit of wire if you have the controller like the picture below. Take the white wire off and tape it, then hook a new wire where the white wire used to go, run this wire into the cab to a pushbutton switch, and then run a ground wire to the other side of the pushbutton switch's other terminal. You now have manual glowplugs.

You must be registered for see images attach

I did something similar, I left the white wire connected but put a switch in line so I can stop the controller from coming on since it still works properly. There's no need to let the controller run the glow plugs every time you start the truck. I figure this will extend the life some and when it fails will most likely go full manual.

 

[theguruat12]

I did something similar, I left the white wire connected but put a switch in line so I can stop the controller from coming on since it still works properly. There's no need to let the controller run the glow plugs every time you start the truck. I figure this will extend the life some and when it fails will most likely go full manual.

That's what I did, since my controller works perfectly EXCEPT for the afterglow timer. It runs the afterglow cycle forever, but still only little 2-second bursts. I don't think it was harming the glow plugs, but better safe than sorry, plus it just wasn't necessary, so I have mine wired up so that I have a duckbill switch with an LED in it that I turn on (LED on) to activate a relay between the controller and the GP solenoid. That way, if there's a green light on my dash, the system is ON, and the GP light will come on to tell me when the plugs are actually heating. LED off, no glow plugs at all. I just switch mine off after about 1-2 minutes.