Just got my first diesel...

npe3484

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Well, I picked up my first diesel today. The basics are 1988 F250 4x4, C6 trans, 4.10 gears, standard cab, 8 ft bed. It was the truck I mentioned in this previous thread: http://www.oilburners.net/forums/showthread.php?t=28519

A few poser pics of it...

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It runs well but there are a few issues with it that need to be addressed.

First, it's got the typical non-functioning fuel gauge. The needle reads way past full for both tanks at all times. From what I've read on here, it's either a bad ground, a broken wire, or both of the sending units are bad. Do I need to drop the tanks to check the wiring and ground?

Second, the gas pedal feels like it has a lot more resistance than it should. Is this a common problem?

Third, the transmission (C6) shifts pretty hard when the engine is under moderate to heavy throttle. The previous owner told me that the trans was rebuilt and a shift kit was added. Any thoughts on this?

Fourth, there is a pretty bad power steering leak. I can't tell yet if it's coming from the pump, box, or one of the hoses. Any common places to have a leak from the power steering system?

All in all I'm happy with the truck. I can't wait to get the bugs worked out and start modifying it.
 

troutwest66

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Hope you enjoy it. I remember when I first bought the Hulk. I was so excited. It was rough being a logger's rig but I spent many hours and some money on it. Most of the non-body work I've done myself so I've learned a lot. The accelerator peddle shouldn't be too stiff. Maybe the cable is getting bad and binding. Clean up the power steering area real well and see if you can pinpoint the leak. I don't do automatic trannies so I can't help you there.
 

DowneyB

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Second, the gas pedal feels like it has a lot more resistance than it should. Is this a common problem?

Gas pedal?? What gas pedal? We don't need no stinkin' gas pedal.

I don't know if its a common problem, but my pedal is rather stiff as well.

When my power steering started leaking, it was because the pulley had rubbed through one of the hoses. Don't know if thats common either, but its a place to look.
 

LCAM-01XA

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Nice truck! Loving the chrome rings on the wheels :D Align the front hood bump stops, lower the one on the passenger side and bring the latch down a bit, that should make it sit straight. On your questions:

a) front tank is easy to get to, but the rear is evil cause bed is like 1" above it.

b) throttle pedal has at least 3 springs on it at the IP, they are pretty stiff indeed. Check the cable for binding tho, sometimes when people pull the air box for filter replacement they bend the cable.

c) shift kits can be set up to shift hard, it comes from the increased line pressure - it's good for your trans, but to a point, if it shifts like it's about to rip the driveshafts out something ain't right. Check the adjustment of the VRV on the driver side of the IP, someone here will post the correct procedure for that in a few.
d) the plastic tank of the PS pump leaks often, there are two o-rings that seal it to the test of the pump and with age and heat they dry out and cause leaks. You can buy an o-ring kit for a few bucks. Also, the return line sometimes dries out, and leaks as well, that's a common hose with two clamps so again easy and cheap to fix. Then, there's the evil stuff - input shaft and sector shaft seals, now those ask for dropping the steering gear box.
 

EMD_DRIVER

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Hey man... You only live about a half hour from me... If you want to meet-up, we can turn some wrenches..
 

k_williams1982

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The THROTTLE pedal on all the IDI's I've owned have been a little stiffer than a gaspot. A common place for the PS to leak is at the seal on the gearbox where the shaft for the pitman arm comes out of the gearbox. I have 4.11 gears with a C6 and if I'm on it hard, I'll get a "hard" shift also, but like was said earlier... It's good to a point. As for the fuel gauges... that's a common problem on these. Both of my tanks has "dead spots" in the gauge that will cause it to drop to empty at a certain spot and then read "accurately" a little while later. When my front tank reads "E" for the SECOND time, it's time to get fuel again.
 

FordGuy100

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The THROTTLE pedal on all the IDI's I've owned have been a little stiffer than a gaspot. A common place for the PS to leak is at the seal on the gearbox where the shaft for the pitman arm comes out of the gearbox. I have 4.11 gears with a C6 and if I'm on it hard, I'll get a "hard" shift also, but like was said earlier... It's good to a point. As for the fuel gauges... that's a common problem on these. Both of my tanks has "dead spots" in the gauge that will cause it to drop to empty at a certain spot and then read "accurately" a little while later. When my front tank reads "E" for the SECOND time, it's time to get fuel again.

Your tanks do that to?!?!?!?! I dislike it intensly, especially when you forget if your on that first or second E. Sitting in traffic with your truck starting to chug is no good LOL (only done it twice, saved it both times)
 

npe3484

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Hey man... You only live about a half hour from me... If you want to meet-up, we can turn some wrenches..

Yea man, I'd love to meet up even if it was just to get some advice from a more experienced diesel owner. I worked as a mechanic at a Chrysler/Jeep dealership for 2 summers so I'm pretty confident working under a hood. These diesels are still so foreign to me.
 

Cat_Rebel

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I'd spray the throttle linkage with some PB blaster/WD40/ext once a day & see if that softens it up any. Worked for a buddy of mine.

The powersteering pump is hit & miss, mine was about empty when I got it. Put some lucus powersteering pump fix in there & it quieted right down but started leaking. So I just kept adding reg fluid every other day & then just out of the blue one day it stopped leaking. I never argued & both me & the truck seem happy so I'm not asking any questions.
 

npe3484

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The previous owner told me that he would usually see 10-12 mpg. When I picked up the truck I topped off the front tank so that I could try to get an estimate of the fuel milage. Today I stopped and filled up the front tank again. I've driven it 140 miles so far, and it took 9.75 gallons to top it off. That works out to 14.5 mpg. This was with 90% highway driving at 55-60 mph and 2400-2500 rpm.

While I'm not exactly thrilled with that kind of milage, at least it's better than what the PO told me to expect.
 

EMD_DRIVER

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Yea man, I'd love to meet up even if it was just to get some advice from a more experienced diesel owner.


The experience I have, has been through a lot of trial and error.. I've also learned tons of things from the guys here.. :hail This is, without a doubt, one of the nicest and most patient group of guys I have ever known!
 

LCAM-01XA

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The previous owner told me that he would usually see 10-12 mpg. When I picked up the truck I topped off the front tank so that I could try to get an estimate of the fuel milage. Today I stopped and filled up the front tank again. I've driven it 140 miles so far, and it took 9.75 gallons to top it off. That works out to 14.5 mpg. This was with 90% highway driving at 55-60 mph and 2400-2500 rpm.

While I'm not exactly thrilled with that kind of milage, at least it's better than what the PO told me to expect.
You can get way better fuel economy if you spin the engine slower, cruising at 1900-2000 rpms I get about 18mpg. Unfortunately with your setup (3-spd trans, likely 4.10 gears) that means you gotta be going real slow, which is usually not possible on the freeway. One solution would be to install an auxiliary transmission of some sort, whether it's a US Gear unit, Gear Vendors, Ranger, or a 3-spd Brownie. Another solution, that is also usually cheaper, would be to regear the axles to 3.55, you will have harder time towing but you will pick up more speed and less rpms so better fuel economy. Don't worry, all these engines chug fuel as if it comes from a keg when they get above 2000 rpms, but on the flip side they can run pedal on the floor (literally) with no ill effects :D
 

redneckaggie

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my leak on my power steering came from the metal lines that are along the front axle that help to dissapate heat rubbed a hole in the line and almost rubbed a hole in the oil pan. now i have an automatic transmission cooler coolin the ps fluid. easiest thing in the world to install.
 

npe3484

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One solution would be to install an auxiliary transmission of some sort, whether it's a US Gear unit, Gear Vendors, Ranger, or a 3-spd Brownie. Another solution, that is also usually cheaper, would be to regear the axles to 3.55, you will have harder time towing but you will pick up more speed and less rpms so better fuel economy.

Which of these units would be the most desirable? I suppose I should start searching...
 
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