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Chevyboy_0

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do you have any advice for how i should go about purging it? or should it just let it do its thing? IIRC in mels fuel injection article he mentioned how fr the first few times after bleeding the system its gonna start and run rough until the air bleeds out of the system?
 

RLDSL

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so i guess i gotta start looking for more air intrusion then huh?

Yup. I'd have to agree, GPs first thing in the morning for sure, but once it's good and warm, it should cough without them without a fuss with about 3 churny sounds of the starter or less.

Air leaks can be REAL annoying to chase down. If youve already attacked the usual suspects, then there are all those little tiny orings on the quick disconnects that are stationed all along the fuel lines, at the tanks, and the FSV and possibly even the FSV internally.
 

OLDBULL8

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Crack the fuel line at each injector while it's running, watch closely for air bubbles. If you get air bubbles at each injector then you are sucking air. Air will suck in where fuel won't leak out.

T'stat: It's important that it has a long stem, installed towards the motor, if it has the short stem, they don't work correctly and leave hot spots in the heads. Also make sure the check ball in the t'stat houseing is free, shake it to hear it rattle. Very important.

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See the little check ball in upper left corner.

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If you want to put a temp. guage in use the coolant temp. sender location C164, far right side facing the motor under the A/C compressor, or there is a pipe plug on the same head at the rear, that location can be used along with the OEM guage.
 
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MIDNIGHT RIDER

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Pardon the off-topic question please.

OLDBULL8,

The top-side creeper gizmo in your avatar, is it store-bought or home-made ??

Do you have more pictures of different views ??

Thanks. ;Sweet
 

OLDBULL8

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Pardon the off-topic question please.

OLDBULL8,

The top-side creeper gizmo in your avatar, is it store-bought or home-made ??

Do you have more pictures of different views ??

Thanks. ;Sweet

It's homemade, but you can buy them for around ($250 ?). I made mine for about $45. I used 1/8" X 1-1/4" X 1-1/4" angle iron. Where you see the 2 bolts at the top, that is adjustable up to about 12" in steps of 3".

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http://www.relstapleton.com/
 
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OLDBULL8

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Chevyboy_0

Also you want to make sure the COLD idle solenoid is working. On the layout the sender is just ahead of the GP C1038, you can see the wire going into a harness over to the solenoid. That keeps the engine running at 750 to 1000 RPM until the engine reaches 120*.
 

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