IH 6.9L 84 Ford F250

[FORDMAN41291]

if the switch is faulty can you replace it with out replacing the entire steering column?

because someone did tell me I had to replace the entire steering column

 

[cm1hedge]

I forgot to mention, you can get the switch at NAPA. No, you don't need to replace the entire column. The actuator is not hard to repair either. The only reason you would need to replace the column is if someone went after the key assembly with a slide hammer or sledge hammer.

 

[FORDMAN41291]

does my truck have potential to being kick ass?

 

[zukinut]

Gonna spell this out elementary like. Im not calling you dumb or whatnot, so dont get offended, just gonna spell it out real easy thats all.

Take off the plastic cover that goes around the steering wheel COLUMN, Locate the flat metal rod on top of the column, now turn your key to the on position. Push that rod towards the front of the truck. Does the starter engage, does the truck start. If so, then you have a broken actuator pin thing. It goes between the ignition switch and the flat metal rod. Its a pita to change, i would suggest getting a book. BUT the part is only like 5 bucks and can be found in the help section at any reputable parts store. While youre in there i would highly suggest changing the igntion switch as its pretty easy to change.

If pushing that rod DID NOT engage your starter, your actuator electrical box may be bad.

Its all a matter of starting with basic troubleshooting and working from there. Most of your questions will be answered in a haynes or chiltons manual. Haynes books are more user friendly. If you cant find a haynes for your diesel truck buy one for your year truck with a gasser, everything but the motor is the same.

Will

 

[91f2504x4]

and again electricity is going to the solenoid because I can get a screw driver and touch it and it would start the motor,

do you have an Instant Messenger?

You are misunderstanding me, I know that there is 12v going to the big lugs on the solenoid or it would not turn over at all, I was trying to get you to check if you had 12v at the small wire going to the solenoid from the ignition when you try and start the truck, I am assuming you do not, which is why I think your switch is bad on the steering column if you lock cylinder is actually turning and other items are coming on. There could also be a problem with the rod that actuates the ignition switch from the lock cylinder, your problem is more than likely with the switch and not the cylinder.

 

[cm1hedge]

I think the IDI is a very reliable engine and can be "hopped" up relatively easily. Get a pyro, turn up the pump, get a turbo. The list goes on and on. Turning up the pump and a turbo will definitely wake it up. But let's get the basics fixed first.

 

[FORDMAN41291]

hold on i can only talk to one person at a time, if you want here is my IM AIM:[email protected]
or
[email protected]

 

[FORDMAN41291]

ok, I will perform the following tomorrow morning and get back to all of you it is 10:00 CSDT

 

[FORDMAN41291]

you know what maybe the dashboard needs a new fuse? because the Glow Plug light doesn't come on??? what would cause the glow plug light not come on?

 

[typ4]

glow plug light will not come on unless they are working properly.

 

[FORDMAN41291]

hmmm, that may be a factor, how do I remove the glow plugs? with out removing the heads?

 

[david85]

Actually, the 1986 and older glow plug systems will come on if there is even one single good glow plug in the works, don't ask me how I know. 1987 and older will not come on after 2 or more fail.

I posted the article for glow plug removal earlier. Basically, you just unthread them like spark plugs. The ideal took is a 10mm 1/4" drive socket wrench.

As a precaution, bring each cylinder that you are working on to TDC before attempting to remove the glow plug. That way if one breaks off, you won't loose it in the cylinder where its out of reach and require head removal rto recover. If the fragment stays in the prechamber, it can be blasted out through the injector hole with a mix of compressed air and/or a vacuum cleaner. The glow plug tips are not magnetic.

This is an image of the passenger side inner fender under the hood, yours should be similar. In the image you can see a solenoid relay to the lower, right hand side of the plastic ball. That is the relay for the glow plugs.

 

[FORDMAN41291]

What year is the truck?
but yeah it looks about the same, how does the light know when to come on when the glow plugs are going?

speaking of B.C. you Canadians can sure build stuff pretty well, even though Ford is American. I wish I lived in Canada

 

[david85]

1986, it should be very close to identical to yours. At the very least yours will have the same solenoid in the same place. Shorting out the two terminals should produce a spark indicating draw from the glow plugs. No spark = all dead glow plugs.

You can manually hot wire the plugs this way to try and start it. Make the connection, count to ten, release the solenoid and crank (don't crank and have the glow plugs connected and don't exeed 10 seconds on the glow plugs).

Funny thing is most cars and trucks in canada are canadian made even if the brands are not

 

[Knuckledragger]

Have you tested them yet, as described in other posts? They do not go bad from age.

If you decide that you absolutely have to take out the glow plugs, do these things in order: 1) get a compressed air hose and nozzle to the engine bay and blow out all the crap that has collected at the base of the glow plugs. **To locate the glow plugs, find the eight wires with spade connectors going from the back of the block to each cylinder between the injectors and intake manifold (that means one wire per cylinder, not 8 per), disconnect each wire carefully and set aside.**
2) get a 3/8 inch deep socket and ratchet or bar (I have used this, you may need a 10 mm socket).
3) slip the socket over the glow plug hex and remove carefully. They are right hand threads. ** important note** the GP threads are METRIC. Do not mess them up unless you have a 10mm tap (I don't know what pitch they use; there are several) ready to go. If there is resistance, the heat coil on the end may have exploded and will not come out easily or at all.
4) inspect the plug and test again for resistance. Another easy test is a battery charger with a charging meter. Connect the minus clamp to any part of the body (the threads are preferred- if you clamp to the heater element and the plug is good, there will be considerable heat generated), the plus clamp to the spade connector and turn it on (also for no more than 10 seconds). If the meter shows any movement at all, the plug is OK. If there is no movement, the plug is burned out, no internal circuit, no signal to meter.
5) repeat for each plug and replace as needed.

How much experience do you have working with a diesel engine? They are very little like a gas engine in the way they actually make power. No ignition or spark plugs, no carburetor, no throttle plate. The good folks on this forum are very patient and helpful. I know, I am very new to working on diesels myself. But you can learn fast here, everyone eats and breathes diesel.

Cheers!

Sorry, as I was writing my response, three other posts were made.